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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Live Reveal - Thursday 12th of June at 1700BST

    Reddit - Ask me Anything (AMA)

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    • J
      jdl1279
      Joined:

      This was really informative, the turnover on the 25oz 😞 How the hell do you find profits in that? Makes me appreciate the cranky bastards that much more. The variables I was unaware of and details G covered (thread detail and count, man knows his stuff) were impressive both because he just fired it off, and because the audience seemed to care about it as it was laid out. Thanks for taking the time Giles, I learned something from it all, and that will bring me back every time.

      Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

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      • GilesG
        Giles
        IHUK Crew
        Joined:

        Yep, last but one time we ran a weave of the 25oz, we bought back USD12,000 of 2nd and 3rd rate fabric from the mill…....

        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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        • J
          jdl1279
          Joined:

          Wow, that's gotta make folks buying from Japan sting all the more (sorry knowing as I do now I would have dug deeper, promise you'll get the balance in the long run). Do you know with all of that where you end up per pair? Sorry I can be off, profit margins and debt footprints interest me.

          Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

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          • SeulS
            Seul
            Joined:

            Your praise and kind words for Haraki-san (and vice versa) is touching  🙂 Made for a great read, G!..

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            • D
              davito
              Joined:

              Well done G great insights like always. Thanks

              Cheers,
              David

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              • GilesG
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined:

                @jdl1279:

                Wow, that's gotta make folks buying from Japan sting all the more (sorry knowing as I do now I would have dug deeper, promise you'll get the balance in the long run). Do you know with all of that where you end up per pair? Sorry I can be off, profit margins and debt footprints interest me.

                We work on the basis that we do not need to make the same margin off everything we sell.  Margins on silver, leather and the 25oz are awful.  If that was all we sold, we'd go bust.  But we strive for an average margin that is acceptable, so yes, we make more on some items (the IH-634S being a prime example - we make so many of them our costs are reasonably low)…...

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                • J
                  jdl1279
                  Joined:

                  I am glad there is some room for you after the trials of production. I understand no two things in any business carry the same margins, I have also been in the position where trouble jobs make your end barely worth the effort. The determination to get through the issues, even with a smaller margin, and then continue to expand the offerings in the difficult area is what impresses me. You have to bust your ass to make that work, tons of respect for it.

                  Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

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                  • S
                    sabergirl
                    見習いボス
                    Joined:

                    This was so fascinating to read!  Thanks for taking the time, Giles.  I'm interested to know what happens to the scrap denim that can't be salvaged for pockets or other products.

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                    • GilesG
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined:

                      We find projects eventually for them….

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • S
                        sabergirl
                        見習いボス
                        Joined:

                        Lovely!  It would seem a shame to waste such top quality materials.  I'd love to see what little things y'all have come up with.

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                        • mclaincauseyM
                          mclaincausey
                          見習いボス
                          Joined:

                          Coasters!

                          Think it, be it.

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                          • S
                            sabergirl
                            見習いボス
                            Joined:

                            Have there been 25oz. coasters, though?!

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • mclaincauseyM
                              mclaincausey
                              見習いボス
                              Joined:

                              Paraffin something would be great

                              Think it, be it.

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • seanoconoS
                                seanocono
                                Joined:

                                Just finished reading through the AMA.  Congratulations, Giles.  You knocked that out of the park.  If I weren't a huge fan of IH already, I would be after reading your thoughtful, direct, and informed responses.

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                                • GilesG
                                  Giles
                                  IHUK Crew
                                  Joined:

                                  Where is the blushing emoticon when you need one?

                                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                  • veloaudioV
                                    veloaudio
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined:

                                    Well put Sean.  I was trying to think of a good way to sum up my reaction after reading the AMA but you captured my thoughts perfectly. Congrats G and IH on the great exposure.

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                                    • irishexpatI
                                      irishexpat
                                      Joined:

                                      @mclaincausey:

                                      Coasters!

                                      i want some too now.

                                      Iron Heart, Empty Wallet

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • J
                                        jdl1279
                                        Joined:

                                        ^third, since I saw Seul's my beers seem lonely.

                                        Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • 4c4
                                          4c
                                          Banned
                                          Joined:

                                          Very cool read…  .
                                          I always assumed IH used Supima for the US long staple cotton in the jeans. But then I read this: “OK I heard from Haraki. Fairly adamant reply:
                                          "We don't use PIMA in our denim and I won't use it."”

                                          I have this burning question about the cotton now. I should start by saying that I’m somewhat obsessed with cotton and am really impressed with the cotton used in my IH jeans and sweatshirt and my cotton obsessions are urging me to find out what variety of cotton IH uses. However, there are a few points about IH cotton that make it wonderfully unique and hard to identify:

                                          • It’s not the GE (BT toxin producing or herbicide tolerant) variety…
                                                          (which rules out about 90%+ of  US cotton…)
                                          • It’s not US Pima AKA Supima (which rules out about 3%)

                                          So that leaves about 6-7% which it could be, but it’s long staple cotton (which is rare outside of Supima cotton in the US and rules out all Upland cotton and most of the other 6-7% left over) so it must be some super rare cotton variety that’s not even on the radar of commercial cotton growers…

                                          Which all leads to the question: What kind is it? Is it a secret? Is it some rare heirloom or breed of cotton that other companies don’t find cost effective, but IH uses for its extreme durability/softness? A US Zimbabwean cotton equivalent that’s better than Supima?
                                          Vary fascinated to hear… certainly no rush though.

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                                          • GilesG
                                            Giles
                                            IHUK Crew
                                            Joined:

                                            Haraki & and Ono-san sit down and work out what Haraki needs out of the finished fabric.  There are certain things Haraki just does care about (though Pima is obviously something he is not keen on).  Does X do the job?  Yes.  Good.

                                            I can also tell when he feels a question is unnecessary and he is irritated.  This is one of them.

                                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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