Posts made by mpukas

I live in the mountains of CO, in the Vail area. We definitely get cold temps here in the winter, but not as cold as where @neph93 is. I'll only be wearing this N1 when it's really cold and I'll have some type of heavy flannel or denim shirt underneath. I don't wear multiple layers like heavy sweaters or cardigans. Worst case scenario is I'd wear an extra insulated layer on those scarce occasions when it's a high of -10F.

I did speak with the IH crew prior to purchasing, and was advised that given my stats an XL would suite me. Hoping to hear back from them here, or I'll contact them directly.

Thx fella's. mpp

Gents,

I just copped this N1 BLK size XL f/ the outlet. Been looking for a proper winter coat for literally years. This should do nicely.

Opinions on fit? I have an IHxSE type III denim jacket and the blanket lined riders jacket both in XXL. I wear IH westerns in XL. In fit pics I have on an XL UHF under the N1. I think this is on the edge of being too large, but acceptable. I could have gone w/ and L, but wasn't available at the time.

Cheers!

congrats @spitfiredealer 

When someone just says thigh, to me they're referring to the thigh measurement, either at the crotch seam, 2" down, whatever. And I've heard several guys refer to the 888 as having bigger thighs than the 634, so that's what I thought he meant.

@Anesthetist:

I’m telling you, I used to think that the 633 was my favorite but the rise and thigh of the 888 have me bowled over atm. I might need to get some 21oz 888 next.

I have to ask/address this statement, as I've seen it come up several times, both here and other places - where does/did the notion come from that the 888 has a larger thigh than the 634, and therefore the 633? I'm not going to dig for it too much, but in Giles' original announcement/description of the 888 was that is was based on the 634: "New jeans cut. Higher rise than IH-634 - particularly at the back. More taper from the knee than the 634." The first iteration had the same thigh measurements as the 634 in the same fabric. Shortly after the first release, some guys were asking/requesting a larger thigh for subsequent runs, but the response was that it was selling so well it wouldn't be changed. When I've compared the 634 to 888 measurements in the same fabric, the thigh is the same with an expected small amount of variation.

I get and acknowledge that each version in different fabrics will have slight variations in measurements. One of our fellas on SuFu had an OD 634 version that looked skin tight, like a 777.  He's a tall, lean, athletic guy with bigger thighs, but not a gigantic weight lifter build. They were too tight for him, and looking at the fit pics it was understandable. I think that was an extreme case of a 634 variat being unusually slim.

The 633 is SE's proprietary cut, and seems to be continually evolving with each release. Every variant that I have looked and compared seems to be a bit different from one to the next. But in general "taking their famed 634s and tapering the leg for a smaller leg opening and also lengthening the inseam by a few inches.", it still based on the 634.

Could it be that you're comparing a 633 variant that happened to have smaller thighs than a standard 634?

My point to all of this is that if the 888 is/was not intended to have bigger thighs than the 634, let's put that notion to rest once and for all.

edit: wow that was unintentionally long winded… 

@Alex:

@mpukas:

Any plans to do more?

Maybe…

Western?

@Denim:

Nice mock-up. IMO, IH's chest pocket could be slightly larger, and raised higher to align the the upper pleat stitch.

What about wool shirts? IH has done a couple in the past, correct? How well did they sell? Any plans to do more? UHF fabric is all that, but it is cotton. In the mountain communities cotton is affectionately and appropriately know as Death Cloth. I'd never wear a UHF for any extended vigorous outdoor winter activity, but I would definitely wear an IH wool shirt.

@Denim:

Japan's VISVIM，

Thanks

That's a cleaner way to do pockets on a Type II, and I like zippers on hand warmer pockets for security when you don't have you hands in them. My only comment is having pocket openings on the side seams might make them slightly awkward to use. What brand is that?

Not sure… I don't dislike it. I don't think it looks bad. I like the concept and practicality/functionality of it. I appreciate the thought that went into it to make it work and still look good. It's a flat lay pic, and in a fit pic I think it would better. Hand warmer pockets on a Type II are a lot harder than a Type III due to the pocket placement and larger size.

Here's one way to add hand warmer pockets to a Type II

https://www.instagram.com/p/B6BPy4WAmzd/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

@Giles:

I'd love to do a work jacket and will give it some thought, historically the ones we have made have not sold well, but that is probably because the cuts were significantly less than ideal

I was thinking of IH existing Work Jacket in hickory stripe. I love the simplicity of the Work Jacket.

@Giles:

…I thought for a while that having a button at the neck was to prevent beard hair getting caught in the snap...

On cheaper non-IH brands, I have that problem of whiskers getting caught in the snap's crimp. But I've never had that problem w/ IH snaps. Quite remarkable actually, and another small sign of IH superior quality.

@Giles:

Not if you want to use selvedge denim, want a flattering cut and preserve the selvedge ID on the outseam

But the taper from crotch to hem on any cut is done on the inseam to preserve the selvedge outseam. Like I said, I'm no pattern cutter, not trying to argue, just trying to understand… Why can't the last 4" be parallel to the outseam?

Another question - why do western UHF's have a button at the collar instead of a snap? All of the other IH westerns I have in other fabrics have a snap at the collar. The UHF fabric is so thick that's it's nearly if entirely not possible to button it.

I only use the top button/snap to put the shirt on a hanger. I can't button/snap the top fastener on IH westerns anyway, as the neck measurement is too small for me. I need a XXL in neck, shoulder and chest measurements, and an XL in body & sleeve length, waist and opening measurements.

Re: taper, I no pattern cutter so I don't know, but is it possible to taper from the knee to an inseam length of 32", and then straight to 36"? Then regardless of hemmed inseam length the hem width would be consistent. Don't know if it's possible or not. I can see that might look really odd for for long inseam lengths.

Offering 2 different lengths with the same profile and hem width would please a lot of fellas, as this has been brought up more than once over the years.

My comment re: pocket size was more related to a Type II. I get that Type III pockets are somewhat restricted by size. Type II pockets may have a bit more wiggle room. TSG's Type II has great, large pockets.

A couple of random-ish thoughts and questions:

some pages back, there was a brief discussion about a new jeans cut. Is this at all serious? IMO, there's definitely room for another cut - an IH version of a lifters cut. Start w/ a 634; keep the mid rise, waist and hips; increase the thighs; taper slightly from knee to hem like the 888. Don't make the taper so drastic like some other brands are currently doing. Call it the 999 or 444 or whatever tickles Haraki-san's nether region, I don't care, just make it.

Regardless of the rise, my jeans always ride just below my hip bones, unless it's really low rise then the waist rides even lower. High rise cuts like the 888 just end of giving me diaper butt. And the thighs aren't big enough for the waist size I need.

How about a Work Jacket in hickory stripe? Black or indigo stripe? I saw one on-line somewhere recently that looked really good, and thought IH could make a great version. The one I saw also had one exterior chest patch pocket w/ a flap. That might mess up the simplicity of the Work Jacket, but if done properly it could be a nice addition. Depending on the weight of hickory stripe available, maybe add a wind-resistant lining?

And this one is totally going out on limb, just me alone in my head… a modified Type II w/ hand warmer pockets? Lengthen the body slightly, like the modified Type III, and raise the chest pockets a bit to accommodate. And for F's sake, make the chest pockets big enough to be useful. One thing I can't stand about anybody's Type III (yes, I mean Type III, not Type II) is the useless tiny chest pockets. I have a SExIH22 Modified Type III that I adore, but can't stand the chest pockets.

Also, I want to point out that a couple of years ago I suggested flannel lined jeans for those in colder climates. The Brethren immediately shut me down, saying it would be such a waist of flannel, and to just wear long johns when needed. Now it's been mentioned again recently and received akin to the Wheel or Sliced Bread. I find trends amusing.

Thx for lending me an ear. 

mpukas
USA
IH-888-NT, size 34

You can see my final and evo pics on SuFu, 'cuz quite frankly I can't be f'g bothered to post them all a 2nd time.
https://supertalk.superfuture.com/topic/161388-dwc2-final-submissions-thread/
Looking forward to seeing final submissions from all who made it through. Congrats to everyone who made it!

Huge thanks to @Megatron1505 for organizing the comp!