Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?

[Giles]

On a curved hem, like on most Iron Heart shirts,  the length of seam allowance edge (brown) is longer than the length of the seam stitch (orange). This creates a tendency for the fabric to curl towards the longer side.

And, there are 3 thicknesses of fabric on the hem.

Given the thickness of the resulting seam, it is easier for the fabric to roll away from the bulky seam, than to roll towards the bulk.

It is something that can't be avoided, and the tendency to roll up is a direct function of the bulk and weight of the fabric.  The heavier/bulkier the fabric and thus the seam, the more pronounced the roll outwards will be…

[jay-cy]

that corresponds to what I found.
So it should be a general issue with folded curved hems…

[Giles]

That are double or triple thick…..

[jay-cy]

jep, material thickness certainly matters!
I also have shirts of also substantial thickness in which the hem is „countered“ by a seam band sewn from the other side. This seems to avoid the roll-up…

[Kasi]

Some new knowledge learn to today…

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[Chris]

And that nicely explains why the denim and wabash shirts roll more than the chambray.

[steelworker]

@Giles:

Haraki has given me the explanation.

On a curved hem, like on most Iron Heart shirts,  the length of seam allowance edge (brown) is longer than the length of the seam stitch (orange). This creates a tendency for the fabric to curl towards the longer side.

And, there are 3 thicknesses of fabric on the hem.

Given the thickness of the resulting seam, it is easier for the fabric to roll away from the bulky seam, than to roll towards the bulk.

It is something that can't be avoided, and the tendency to roll up is a direct function of the bulk and weight of the fabric.  The heavier/bulkier the fabric and thus the seam, the more pronounced the roll outwards will be…

I read that and actually found it interesting.I think theres something wrong with me.

[Giles]

Join the club….

[BloodnThunder]

This is definitely one of those bits of clothing nerd knowledge that will get you a funny 'why do you know that' look if you tell someone.

[Giles]

A rather excellent example….

14oz indigo/black western....

[Chris]

My wabash shirts do it, too.

[JDelage]

Does that disappear over time, as the shirt gets worn?

[Giles]

Nope

[Giles]

H thinks he may have solved the issue.  He is experimenting with variable needle and bobbin pressure…..

[Kasi]

So the magic has been done..

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[68degreesorless]

Wow I’m excited to hear more about the fix. On a related note, I recently started up a new hobby…think they call it “ironing.” It’s cathartic AND afterward I no longer feel the urge to pull on my shirt hem 63839308 times during the day. So H might need to make a IH stress ball or fidget spinner once he renders ironing obsolete.

[neph93]

@68degreesorless:

Wow I’m excited to hear more about the fix. On a related note, I recently started up a new hobby…think they call it “ironing.” It’s cathartic AND afterward I no longer feel the urge to pull on my shirt hem 63839308 times during the day. So H might need to make a IH stress ball or fidget spinner once he renders ironing obsolete.

The best, least stressful way of tackling it is to learn to live it. The shirts still look boss.

[endo]

@neph93:

to learn to live it

actually, I like it …

and, once it's solved the old shirts will be collectors items 

[Dmart]

Me too, I like it when they roll up.

[Nik]

The difference between a bug and a feature is often perception…