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Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?

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  • G
    Giles
    IHUK Crew
    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

    On a curved hem, like on most Iron Heart shirts,  the length of seam allowance edge (brown) is longer than the length of the seam stitch (orange). This creates a tendency for the fabric to curl towards the longer side.

    And, there are 3 thicknesses of fabric on the hem.

    Given the thickness of the resulting seam, it is easier for the fabric to roll away from the bulky seam, than to roll towards the bulk.

    It is something that can't be avoided, and the tendency to roll up is a direct function of the bulk and weight of the fabric.  The heavier/bulkier the fabric and thus the seam, the more pronounced the roll outwards will be…

    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

    last edited by 29 May 2020, 09:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
    • J
      jay-cy
      Joined: 2 Jan 2017

      that corresponds to what I found.
      So it should be a general issue with folded curved hems…

      last edited by 29 May 2020, 09:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • G
        Giles
        IHUK Crew
        Joined: 22 Sept 2009

        That are double or triple thick…..

        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

        last edited by 29 May 2020, 09:59 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • J
          jay-cy
          Joined: 2 Jan 2017

          jep, material thickness certainly matters!
          I also have shirts of also substantial thickness in which the hem is „countered“ by a seam band sewn from the other side. This seems to avoid the roll-up…

          last edited by 29 May 2020, 10:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • K
            Kasi
            見習いボス
            Joined: 9 Oct 2014

            Some new knowledge learn to today…

            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

            The world's insane
            While you drink champagne
            And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

            last edited by 29 May 2020, 17:07 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • C
              Chris
              Raw and Unwashed
              Joined: 28 Jun 2010

              And that nicely explains why the denim and wabash shirts roll more than the chambray.

              last edited by 30 May 2020, 04:36 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • S
                steelworker
                見習いボス
                Joined: 16 Apr 2014

                @Giles:

                Haraki has given me the explanation.

                On a curved hem, like on most Iron Heart shirts,  the length of seam allowance edge (brown) is longer than the length of the seam stitch (orange). This creates a tendency for the fabric to curl towards the longer side.

                And, there are 3 thicknesses of fabric on the hem.

                Given the thickness of the resulting seam, it is easier for the fabric to roll away from the bulky seam, than to roll towards the bulk.

                It is something that can't be avoided, and the tendency to roll up is a direct function of the bulk and weight of the fabric.  The heavier/bulkier the fabric and thus the seam, the more pronounced the roll outwards will be…

                I read that and actually found it interesting.I think theres something wrong with me. 😛

                Those are my principles, and if you don't like them…
                Well, I have others.

                last edited by 30 May 2020, 07:07 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • G
                  Giles
                  IHUK Crew
                  Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                  Join the club….

                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                  last edited by 30 May 2020, 07:15 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • B
                    BloodnThunder
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined: 20 May 2015

                    This is definitely one of those bits of clothing nerd knowledge that will get you a funny 'why do you know that' look if you tell someone.

                    IG: Shadesofindig0

                    last edited by 8 Jun 2020, 13:46 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • G
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                      A rather excellent example….

                      14oz indigo/black western....

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 29 Nov 2020, 09:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • C
                        Chris
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined: 28 Jun 2010

                        My wabash shirts do it, too.

                        last edited by 30 Nov 2020, 17:21 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • J
                          JDelage
                          啓蒙家
                          Joined: 13 Jan 2012

                          Does that disappear over time, as the shirt gets worn?

                          last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 16:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • G
                            Giles
                            IHUK Crew
                            Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                            Nope

                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                            last edited by 28 Dec 2020, 16:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • G
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                              H thinks he may have solved the issue.  He is experimenting with variable needle and bobbin pressure…..

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                              last edited by 27 Jun 2022, 18:50 KarolK 1 Reply Last reply 27 Jul 2023, 09:55 Reply Quote 1
                              • K
                                Kasi
                                見習いボス
                                Joined: 9 Oct 2014

                                So the magic has been done..

                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                The world's insane
                                While you drink champagne
                                And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                                last edited by 27 Jun 2022, 19:12 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • 68degreesorless6
                                  68degreesorless
                                  Haraki san Student
                                  Joined: 19 Jul 2021

                                  Wow I’m excited to hear more about the fix. On a related note, I recently started up a new hobby…think they call it “ironing.” It’s cathartic AND afterward I no longer feel the urge to pull on my shirt hem 63839308 times during the day. So H might need to make a IH stress ball or fidget spinner once he renders ironing obsolete.

                                  last edited by 27 Jun 2022, 20:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • neph93N
                                    neph93
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                                    @68degreesorless:

                                    Wow I’m excited to hear more about the fix. On a related note, I recently started up a new hobby…think they call it “ironing.” It’s cathartic AND afterward I no longer feel the urge to pull on my shirt hem 63839308 times during the day. So H might need to make a IH stress ball or fidget spinner once he renders ironing obsolete.

                                    The best, least stressful way of tackling it is to learn to live it. The shirts still look boss.

                                    “Some of those that work forces
                                    Are the same that burn crosses”

                                    • Virginia Woolf
                                    last edited by 28 Jun 2022, 10:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                    • endoE
                                      endo
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined: 29 May 2020

                                      @neph93:

                                      to learn to live it

                                      actually, I like it …

                                      and, once it's solved the old shirts will be collectors items  🙂

                                      si tacuisses

                                      last edited by 28 Jun 2022, 11:14 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • DmartD
                                        Dmart
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined: 24 Mar 2021

                                        Me too, I like it when they roll up.

                                        last edited by 28 Jun 2022, 12:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • NikN
                                          Nik
                                          Raw and Unwashed
                                          Joined: 12 Nov 2020

                                          The difference between a bug and a feature is often perception…

                                          last edited by 28 Jun 2022, 14:01 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
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