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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Time For a New Jeans Cut….

    Future and Planned Products
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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      Yet to be decided, but anyone who wants over 36 is immediately out of luck if we make it 36.  And it will make no difference to the hem width at 36 whether we make to 36 or 38.

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • neph93N
        neph93
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        I think the key thing here, that'll make this work, is the tapering from above the knee. If you consider the difference between the 555 and 666 cuts, I know I can buy a 666 with a 12.8" thigh and avoid sausage leg because the drop from the top of the thigh is relatively straight and the taper marginal. 12.8" in the 555 is a no go because the the taper starts early and I have thighs like Yamaha engine block. So the point with these jeans (I hope), is to have a properly fitting top block giving way to generous thighs that then taper early giving us big boys a bit of wiggle room in a more flattering silhouette. For us short inseam types any taper is going to help, and be better than living with the big flappy openings that I end up having on my 666 and BB's.

        The point is this, we're not going to get (nor I believe, do we want) a W36 jean with a 13.5" thigh that narrows to a 7,8" hem. It's going to be some antifit, carrot-shaped nightmare cut. But we do want the silhouette of a tapered fit. The trade off will be a hem that is less wide than on a pair of 634's but not as narrow as 555's/777's.

        «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
        We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

        • Dame Vera Lynn
        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • spitfiredealerS
          spitfiredealer
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          So if the 634 has 0.5" inch taper from knee to hem are you thinking this cut would have a full inch or more?

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            It'll depend on tag size.  I'm hoping for an inch on the smaller tag sizes and more than that on the larger tag sizes, but it is completely dependent upon what can be achieved given the constraints I articulated above.  For that, I need Tom-sans help…..

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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            • pillowPANTSP
              pillowPANTS
              Joined:

              This sounds awesome!! Thanks G&G music factory [emoji23]

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              • Max PowerM
                Max Power
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined:

                One of my IMO best fits was the 634SB in size 32, which had a leg opening of around 8,5". Sadly I need to size up to 34-36 these days, but just for the thighs and waist, making the rest of the leg look way to wide. So, I would be totally happy with a leg opening that is around 1" smaller than the current 634 offers. A carrot fit that tapers heavily like the FH 3012 looks somewhat off.

                @elclintor:

                > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • neph93N
                  neph93
                  見習いボス
                  Joined:

                  ^ agreed.

                  «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                  We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                  • Dame Vera Lynn
                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • spitfiredealerS
                    spitfiredealer
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    I just got the 634SB in a 32 Max. They are currently being hemmed and tapered to a 8" hem. Had the knee taken in a little too. I find the wider knee adds to the flair of the lower leg no matter what the hem is.

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • hajdukH
                      hajduk
                      啓蒙家
                      Joined:

                      The 634SV pattern was a quasi perfect one. Rise…tighs...hem...with a classic minus 0,6" from the knee meas. to the hem. A BB with shorter rise in a way.
                      Sounds at we will get it with this new pattern...[emoji7]

                      Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

                      "Ignorance, allied with power, is the most ferocious enemy justice can have" James Baldwin.

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                      • AppfaffA
                        Appfaff
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined:

                        Since I've been feeling nostalgic these days, I've been lusting after the perfect vintage fit. 1947 top block, 1966 thigh to knee and classic 505 knee down. This sounds like it might be just that. Hoping the vintage 18oz denim does well and we might see this cut in a classic looking/feeling denim.

                        In my mind, here is what a size 36 would look like:
                        Waist 36-37
                        front Rise: 12
                        Back Rise: 16.5
                        Thigh: 13.5
                        Knee 9.5
                        Hem: 8.25 @ 36" inseam and 8.5 at 34' inseam.

                        Essentially it's a 666 with a larger thigh and more taper from knee to hem… but I think that's what you guys are getting at anyways haha

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          This is what I am targetting for a tag 36:
                          36w
                          12" front rise
                          16.5" back rise
                          13.5" thigh
                          9.5" knee
                          8.5" hem

                          EDIT - Measurements tweaked….

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • B
                            browniemcghee
                            Joined:

                            Then what would the thigh be on a 34? Sounds like a smaller thigh than the 634.  I think thigh measurement is the limit for many guys.

                            Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

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                            • BroarkB
                              Broark
                              Joined:

                              Those look like some really good measurements on a size 36!

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • neph93N
                                neph93
                                見習いボス
                                Joined:

                                Jepp. Anything between Appfaff's and Giles measurements would be sweet. Perhaps closer to 13.5 in the thigh for me, but 13 in 21oz would be fine.

                                I asked earlier but I'm rudely going to ask again, can you give a ballpark timeframe, Giles? Obviously it'll be a rough guess, but are we talking this side of summer or the other?

                                «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                                We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                                • Dame Vera Lynn
                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • GilesG
                                  Giles
                                  IHUK Crew
                                  Joined:

                                  This side…..

                                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • neph93N
                                    neph93
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined:

                                    @Giles:

                                    This side…..

                                    Brilliant.

                                    «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                                    We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                                    • Dame Vera Lynn
                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • GilesG
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined:

                                      @browniemcghee:

                                      Then what would the thigh be on a 34?

                                      Dunno.

                                      Ask 100 people their opinion, you'll get 101 answers.  Sometimes shit just doesn't work out for everyone, I can't help or do anything about that….

                                      But I agree, the thigh could be a little larger....

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                      • BroarkB
                                        Broark
                                        Joined:

                                        Actually, 13.5 on a 36 would be ideal. We'll see how it all shakes out!

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                                        • DionD
                                          Dion
                                          Joined:

                                          Just my two cents but these measurements look way too close to the 555.

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • DrBabyhorseD
                                            DrBabyhorse
                                            Joined:

                                            @Appfaff:

                                            Since I've been feeling nostalgic these days, I've been lusting after the perfect vintage fit. 1947 top block, 1966 thigh to knee and classic 505 knee down. This sounds like it might be just that. Hoping the vintage 18oz denim does well and we might see this cut in a classic looking/feeling denim.

                                            In my mind, here is what a size 36 would look like:
                                            Waist 36-37
                                            front Rise: 12
                                            Back Rise: 16.5
                                            Thigh: 13.5
                                            Knee 9.5
                                            Hem: 8.25 @ 36" inseam and 8.5 at 34' inseam.

                                            Essentially it's a 666 with a larger thigh and more taper from knee to hem… but I think that's what you guys are getting at anyways haha

                                            Since we are similar sizes you might want to check out the 666 uhr. It looks like it is right on the money for you except for the hem. Mine came a tad under 9, which is close to your specifications.  I definitely think I found the perfect jean for me.

                                            Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

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