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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Repairs & Modifications

    The Resource Centre
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    • jimmyJ
      jimmy
      Joined:

      for D97 and Adam

      Hand Sewing buttonholes

      first of all you need gimp or waxed linen thread. I understand neither is that easily available so here is how you can make your own.

      a piece of thick top stitch thread

      twist it together

      it will be all loose and keeps coming untwisted so you will need to wax it. i used natural bees wax but anything you use to condition your leather will do or if you really don't have anything use soap.

      the gimp is going to be the back bone of your button hole. depends how thick your tread is it may pay to do 3-4 layers of twist for IH jeans.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • jimmyJ
        jimmy
        Joined:

        sorry its a bit rough, i did it while having dinner  ::)

        Clean the hole and cut away anything in the way.

        you need to anchor the gimp by stitching a few loops with the gimp inside, go around 2-3 times.
        again depending on the thread you may need 3-4 thread thick. i only use double here as its a pair of old levis.

        [you want your thread to be as almost double the thickness of the weft, white thread in the denim]

        now we can start. the stitch it self is pretty simple once you get the hang of it.
        when the needle comes up loop the thread around the needle like so

        its simple and you just keep repeating it working your way around the hole.
        make sure you take a big enough "bite" see how in the picture below there is a gap two stitches
        back from the end, i didn't take enough "bite" and that creates a weak spot.

        if you are doing it right you should have a nice ridge forming on top of the hole. pull tight as you go and if you run out of thread just anchor and carry one again with a new piece but you will have a gap in your ridge.

        finish by looping a few times at the end closing both ends together

        cut off and burn the end or tie it off. your done!!

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • GilesG
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined:

          RESPECT Jimmy….G

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • D97x7D
            D97x7
            Joined:

            Thanks for that Jimmy, much appreciated.  🙂
            I must admit I'm waiting for my tailor (mother) to return from holiday to attempt the repair, when she does I'll show her this.
            Thanks again.

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • ?
              Guest
              Joined:

              Monumental post, master Jimmy.  "Thank You" is not good enough, HUGE RESPECT!!  I don't know if there's another place you could even ask for something like this.  Iron Heart for Life!!

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • jimmyJ
                jimmy
                Joined:

                Your welcome guys. This forum has bought me so much I just want to give a little back

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • hastyH
                  hasty
                  Joined:

                  Interesting video of a repair at Self Edge, by Complex magazine…

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • elclintorE
                    elclintor
                    Joined:

                    My first attempt at repairing.. I know, It's not pretty.. But it adds character right? LOL

                    Oh and I had absolutely no idea what I was doing….

                    Geo

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • SeulS
                      Seul
                      Joined:

                      Don't worry: one can tell…  😉 😉

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • SeulS
                        Seul
                        Joined:

                        Got my 634S'es… For me, this is the ultimate cut... Much like the SEXIH07bk TTS but less room in the arse... There were two ways of tapering these, I chose for the one that 'ruined' the selvedge line as I don't plan on wearing them cuffed at all... The hem was chainstitched on afterwards...



                        So yeah, big thanks to:

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • D97x7D
                          D97x7
                          Joined:

                          Got my SRs back from the Denim Doctor today, very pleased with the repair that was done to the hole that had developed by the button hole! It's not the neatest job in the world but I was told this would be so before hand and as it can't be seen it dosen't matter.

                          The hole

                          The repair

                          I'd add that it looks better in real life than my pics show.

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • injunjackI
                            injunjack
                            見習いボス
                            Joined:

                            Seul, that selvage line doesn't look too bad. Me thinks thoise might be possible to wear cuffed as well…

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • alcatrazA
                              alcatraz
                              Joined:

                              Seul, did the Doc do a good job?

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • SeulS
                                Seul
                                Joined:

                                The Doc did a wonderful job - I feel reborn…  😉

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • alcatrazA
                                  alcatraz
                                  Joined:

                                  Might give him a go

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • jimmyJ
                                    jimmy
                                    Joined:

                                    I don't think the selvedge is ruined. You made it sound like they cut it off which made me cringe….

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • ALEX1976A
                                      ALEX1976
                                      Banned
                                      Joined:

                                      @hasty:

                                      Interesting video of a repair at Self Edge, by Complex magazine…

                                      great!

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • derivative666D
                                        derivative666
                                        Joined:

                                        Great video

                                        "honorable mention to the bearded giant aka derivative666 for being a stand up dude & not changing with the seasons since i've been around these parts" Monday

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • Jord666J
                                          Jord666
                                          Joined:

                                          Hi, My back batch stitching is coming undone after a week of wear on my 666XHS and I was wondering if anyone knew a name of a stitch I could find a tutorial on to try and repair this myself (i.e lock it to stop it running anymore)

                                          Cheers guys

                                          GO HEAVY OR GO HOME

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • jimmyJ
                                            jimmy
                                            Joined:

                                            The back tac is still there so it's just the tail. Snip it off and you will be alright.

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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