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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

Repairs & Modifications

The Resource Centre
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  • J
    jimmy
    Joined: 17 Dec 2010

    for D97 and Adam

    Hand Sewing buttonholes

    first of all you need gimp or waxed linen thread. I understand neither is that easily available so here is how you can make your own.

    a piece of thick top stitch thread

    twist it together

    it will be all loose and keeps coming untwisted so you will need to wax it. i used natural bees wax but anything you use to condition your leather will do or if you really don't have anything use soap.

    the gimp is going to be the back bone of your button hole. depends how thick your tread is it may pay to do 3-4 layers of twist for IH jeans.

    last edited by 21 Sept 2011, 08:46 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • J
      jimmy
      Joined: 17 Dec 2010

      sorry its a bit rough, i did it while having dinner  ::)

      Clean the hole and cut away anything in the way.

      you need to anchor the gimp by stitching a few loops with the gimp inside, go around 2-3 times.
      again depending on the thread you may need 3-4 thread thick. i only use double here as its a pair of old levis.

      [you want your thread to be as almost double the thickness of the weft, white thread in the denim]

      now we can start. the stitch it self is pretty simple once you get the hang of it.
      when the needle comes up loop the thread around the needle like so

      its simple and you just keep repeating it working your way around the hole.
      make sure you take a big enough "bite" see how in the picture below there is a gap two stitches
      back from the end, i didn't take enough "bite" and that creates a weak spot.

      if you are doing it right you should have a nice ridge forming on top of the hole. pull tight as you go and if you run out of thread just anchor and carry one again with a new piece but you will have a gap in your ridge.

      finish by looping a few times at the end closing both ends together

      cut off and burn the end or tie it off. your done!!

      last edited by 21 Sept 2011, 09:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • G
        Giles
        IHUK Crew
        Joined: 22 Sept 2009

        RESPECT Jimmy….G

        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

        last edited by 21 Sept 2011, 09:12 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • D
          D97x7
          Joined: 7 Oct 2010

          Thanks for that Jimmy, much appreciated.  🙂
          I must admit I'm waiting for my tailor (mother) to return from holiday to attempt the repair, when she does I'll show her this.
          Thanks again.

          last edited by 21 Sept 2011, 09:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • ?
            Guest
            Joined:

            Monumental post, master Jimmy.  "Thank You" is not good enough, HUGE RESPECT!!  I don't know if there's another place you could even ask for something like this.  Iron Heart for Life!!

            last edited by 21 Sept 2011, 19:35 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • J
              jimmy
              Joined: 17 Dec 2010

              Your welcome guys. This forum has bought me so much I just want to give a little back

              last edited by 22 Sept 2011, 03:12 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • topic:timeago-later,7 days
              • H
                hasty
                Joined: 30 Dec 2010

                Interesting video of a repair at Self Edge, by Complex magazine…

                last edited by 29 Sept 2011, 14:38 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • E
                  elclintor
                  Joined: 30 Dec 2010

                  My first attempt at repairing.. I know, It's not pretty.. But it adds character right? LOL

                  Oh and I had absolutely no idea what I was doing….

                  Geo

                  last edited by 29 Sept 2011, 15:32 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • S
                    Seul
                    Joined: 24 Nov 2009

                    Don't worry: one can tell…  😉 😉

                    last edited by 29 Sept 2011, 15:35 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • S
                      Seul
                      Joined: 24 Nov 2009

                      Got my 634S'es… For me, this is the ultimate cut... Much like the SEXIH07bk TTS but less room in the arse... There were two ways of tapering these, I chose for the one that 'ruined' the selvedge line as I don't plan on wearing them cuffed at all... The hem was chainstitched on afterwards...



                      So yeah, big thanks to:

                      last edited by 10 Jun 2011, 11:00 6 Oct 2011, 10:45 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • D
                        D97x7
                        Joined: 7 Oct 2010

                        Got my SRs back from the Denim Doctor today, very pleased with the repair that was done to the hole that had developed by the button hole! It's not the neatest job in the world but I was told this would be so before hand and as it can't be seen it dosen't matter.

                        The hole

                        The repair

                        I'd add that it looks better in real life than my pics show.

                        last edited by 6 Oct 2011, 11:14 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • injunjackI
                          injunjack
                          見習いボス
                          Joined: 19 Feb 2010

                          Seul, that selvage line doesn't look too bad. Me thinks thoise might be possible to wear cuffed as well…

                          last edited by 6 Oct 2011, 11:45 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • alcatrazA
                            alcatraz
                            Joined: 30 Jul 2011

                            Seul, did the Doc do a good job?

                            last edited by 6 Oct 2011, 12:56 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • S
                              Seul
                              Joined: 24 Nov 2009

                              The Doc did a wonderful job - I feel reborn…  😉

                              last edited by 6 Oct 2011, 13:13 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • alcatrazA
                                alcatraz
                                Joined: 30 Jul 2011

                                Might give him a go

                                last edited by 6 Oct 2011, 13:34 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • J
                                  jimmy
                                  Joined: 17 Dec 2010

                                  I don't think the selvedge is ruined. You made it sound like they cut it off which made me cringe….

                                  last edited by 6 Oct 2011, 20:23 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • ALEX1976A
                                    ALEX1976
                                    Banned
                                    Joined: 7 Jun 2010

                                    @hasty:

                                    Interesting video of a repair at Self Edge, by Complex magazine…

                                    great!

                                    last edited by 6 Oct 2011, 23:14 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • derivative666D
                                      derivative666
                                      Joined: 30 Jan 2011

                                      Great video

                                      "honorable mention to the bearded giant aka derivative666 for being a stand up dude & not changing with the seasons since i've been around these parts" Monday

                                      last edited by 7 Oct 2011, 00:53 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • Jord666J
                                        Jord666
                                        Joined: 30 Sept 2011

                                        Hi, My back batch stitching is coming undone after a week of wear on my 666XHS and I was wondering if anyone knew a name of a stitch I could find a tutorial on to try and repair this myself (i.e lock it to stop it running anymore)

                                        Cheers guys

                                        GO HEAVY OR GO HOME

                                        last edited by 7 Oct 2011, 22:04 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • J
                                          jimmy
                                          Joined: 17 Dec 2010

                                          The back tac is still there so it's just the tail. Snip it off and you will be alright.

                                          last edited by 8 Oct 2011, 10:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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