Repairs & Modifications
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hey jimmy, it was a literal boiling soak to make sure i got all shrinkage out of my devil's. the denim & all the hardware besides the patch was fine.
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I broke the zipper on my Wings and Horns jacket and I was wondering if someone involved in the industry could advise me on how difficult a repair would be. The pull tab on the slider broke off and the first tooth is also loose so the entire zipper would have to be replaced.
I talked to Giles briefly about this at the party and he showed me a tool which can remove the rivits. Would a normal tailor be able to do the replacement? Also, how hard would it be to get new rivits and a new zipper equivalent to the Riri which is currently there.
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for D97 and Adam
Hand Sewing buttonholes
first of all you need gimp or waxed linen thread. I understand neither is that easily available so here is how you can make your own.
a piece of thick top stitch thread
twist it together
it will be all loose and keeps coming untwisted so you will need to wax it. i used natural bees wax but anything you use to condition your leather will do or if you really don't have anything use soap.
the gimp is going to be the back bone of your button hole. depends how thick your tread is it may pay to do 3-4 layers of twist for IH jeans.
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sorry its a bit rough, i did it while having dinner ::)
Clean the hole and cut away anything in the way.
you need to anchor the gimp by stitching a few loops with the gimp inside, go around 2-3 times.
again depending on the thread you may need 3-4 thread thick. i only use double here as its a pair of old levis.[you want your thread to be as almost double the thickness of the weft, white thread in the denim]
now we can start. the stitch it self is pretty simple once you get the hang of it.
when the needle comes up loop the thread around the needle like so
its simple and you just keep repeating it working your way around the hole.
make sure you take a big enough "bite" see how in the picture below there is a gap two stitches
back from the end, i didn't take enough "bite" and that creates a weak spot.if you are doing it right you should have a nice ridge forming on top of the hole. pull tight as you go and if you run out of thread just anchor and carry one again with a new piece but you will have a gap in your ridge.
finish by looping a few times at the end closing both ends together
cut off and burn the end or tie it off. your done!!
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Got my 634S'es… For me, this is the ultimate cut... Much like the SEXIH07bk TTS but less room in the arse... There were two ways of tapering these, I chose for the one that 'ruined' the selvedge line as I don't plan on wearing them cuffed at all... The hem was chainstitched on afterwards...
So yeah, big thanks to:
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Got my SRs back from the Denim Doctor today, very pleased with the repair that was done to the hole that had developed by the button hole! It's not the neatest job in the world but I was told this would be so before hand and as it can't be seen it dosen't matter.
The hole
The repair
I'd add that it looks better in real life than my pics show.
