2014 Edition - Iron Heart & Triple Works edition WAYWT

[Giles]

Apart from the 16oz we use on the IH-817, I think this is the toughest denim we do…..

[costanza]

That's really interesting, Giles. I always wondered whether toughness can ironically be in inverse proportion to weight (above a certain point). For instance, is 25oz inherently more prone to premature blow-out or do other variables come into play?… is there an optimum weight for structural integrity and longevity or are the specific qualities of the denim and weave more important factors?

Hope that makes some sense!

[Giles]

It's a combination of staple length, yarn tension, weave tension etc etc etc.  This Organic cotton that we make the 666 and 634N just seems to be super tough, it is also spun and woven pretty tightly, though not as tightly as the IH 16oz.

I don't know for sure but I suspect a slubby denim is inherently weaker than a smooth denim and a projectile loom denim is stronger than a shuttle loom denim (all other things being equal)…

[costanza]

Thanks Giles, though I'm definitely in need of more research - some of that (projectile looms, staple length) sounded like Gnosticism to me! I'm going to look into it further. Fascinating. Ta!

[4c]

@Giles:

a projectile loom denim is stronger than a shuttle loom denim…

Did you mean the other way around G? ???

[Giles]

No

[Friday]

IHFT/IHxAL bastards  /634S/Dirty Mirror

[Megatron1505]

^ Absolutely killer.

[Friday]

Thanks Mega..

[summ3rhays]

Sweet jacket Friday!

[Friday]

Thanks. I highly recommend getting IHxAL Collabo for those looking for a leather jacket. Its absolutely stunning and not as heavy as one imagine.

[superfuzz]

I'm sold, Friday!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ben2t]

555-02

[4c]

@Giles:

No

That goes against everything I thought I knew about shuttle looms… :o Would love to see someone start a new thread about denim facts, myths/truths, and druability factors.

BTW looks good ben2t

[mclaincausey]

I don't know if the interwebs is wrong, but every single comparative reference between shuttle and projectile fabric durability I've ever read claims shuttle loomed denim is more durable.

[Giles]

You could well be right, but my view is based on the irregularity of shuttle loomed denim especially if there is a load of loom chatter versus the smoothness of a projectile loom, I'd be pretty sure that the Iron Heart 21oz selvedge denim is not as strong as our 21oz non selvedge denim. IMO there are a load of good reasons for using shuttle woven denim, but if everything else is the same (warp, weft, condition of loom) I bet the shuttle woven stuff is not as strong.

[mclaincausey]

When I first saw your comment I thought it made a whole lot of sense. A computer controlled loom that puts out a very regular weave intuitively seems to mean a more durable fabric, all else being equal. I've read things that say shuttles can weave tighter (this goes against my intuition) and thus more durable (this also goes against my intuition, a super tight weave of cotton doesn't sound durable to me, just look at loopwheeled fabrics, although a weave is not a twill) twills. They also say shuttles can go heavier. If that's true, then certainly that could figure into more durable fabric.

[Giles]

I am sure shuttles can go heavier, but then we are not comparing like with like.

[pillowPANTS]

Friday, that jacket is awesome buddy!

IHT-3000
534
XHS

[rocket]

yeah Friday, ace one and same goes to the dude just above….