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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Making Boots

    Footwear
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    • simoncS
      simonc
      Banned
      Joined:

      Sorta making boots http://www.shop.outlier.cc/shop/retail/upgrade.html now all i need is a box cutter and some hide.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • HemiH
        Hemi
        Joined:

        Tasman Tannery makes the world class leather I use on my handmade boots so I thought it would be a good idea to spend a day going through the plant and learning about the process.

        The Tannery has been operating since 1953 and is situated next to the Whanganui River where it meets the Tasman Sea (there just happens to be a surf break down the road so I made sure I got their early to check it out). It’s the only bovine tannery in Australasia still making finished leather from raw hides so the operation is relatively big with approximately 250 employees processing around 14,000 hides a week. I can tell you, these guys work hard and long hours with certain sections of the plant running day and night.  Even with state of the art machinery every single hide is checked by hand at each stage to make sure it makes the grade.

        All of the raw hides are by-products of the meat industry and come from local farms between the central North Island and the top of the South Island. The quality of the original raw hide is still key. Each hide is unique, and reveals its history in its texture, grain, and its scars, nicks and rubs.  Lucky for us New Zealand has the perfect climate and landscape for farming strong and healthy cattle with high quality hides.

        Here are some photos I took of the operation.  I was going to write about each process but its so involved and technical that my head started to hurt!  Let’s just say it’s an incredible combination of old and new technology, science and experience.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • HemiH
          Hemi
          Joined:

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            Brilliant….

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • S
              Snowy
              Joined:

              @Hemi:

              What a beautiful looking machine.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • simoncS
                simonc
                Banned
                Joined:

                Is it all steer Hemi or do they process any other kind of skin?

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • HemiH
                  Hemi
                  Joined:

                  ^^ This is a machine press that embosses the leather. The plates they use to do this cost USD $16,000 each (image above the Mostardini).

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • S
                    Snowy
                    Joined:

                    Thanks for the description, really appreciate seeing inside the factory.

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • HemiH
                      Hemi
                      Joined:

                      Simonc, just steer and cow from local farms.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • Finn666F
                        Finn666
                        Joined:

                        @Giles:

                        Brilliant….

                        yap!…

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • HemiH
                          Hemi
                          Joined:

                          Here are some of the leather samples I took from the Tannery.  They are called Crust because they haven't been polished and are considered lower grade. You can see the scares, marks and hair follicles which I actually prefer. The leather is actually better quality (from a funtional point of view) in this state but people prefer the aesthetic of a cleaner polished hide.  I find Crust far more interesting and it fits with my philosophy of keeping things as simple as possible without sacrificing quality.

                          What do you guy's prefer?

                          The images are close ups so you can't see a lot of the natural markings.

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • HemiH
                            Hemi
                            Joined:

                            These are my Suede Sample Boots (and Devils). They've had a few coats of BeeSeal Wax and are wearing nicely. I've been testing different sprays on Suede Hides to see if we can get the wax effect.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • SeulS
                              Seul
                              Joined:

                              I honestly do not know what looks better, the denim or the boots… Pure p0rn...

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                Want

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • HemiH
                                  Hemi
                                  Joined:

                                  I got you covered Giles… just got to get the two piece commando rubber sole right!

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • mclaincauseyM
                                    mclaincausey
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined:

                                    I'm sure you'll cobble something together…

                                    Sorry about that, I actually winced typing it. Then I cringed. Then I hit send and laughed.

                                    Think it, be it.

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • GilesG
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined:

                                      Shit, I'd take em like that…...

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • ChrisC
                                        Chris
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        Yeah, those are lovely, Hemi.  The Crust leather sounds interesting, too.  While it would definitely look out of place on a dress shoe, it sounds like it would fit your aesthetic nicely.  I'd certainly be willing to try a pair made that way.

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                                        • Finn666F
                                          Finn666
                                          Joined:

                                          @Giles:

                                          Want

                                          !…

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • EastWestE
                                            EastWest
                                            Joined:

                                            Nice work Hemi, very nice.

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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