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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Watches - another OCD problem

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    • louisboscoL
      louisbosco
      啓蒙家
      Joined:

      @Giles:

      https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/sbga231g

      Thanks

      "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

      • Harvey Specter
      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • GraemeG
        Graeme
        啓蒙家
        Joined:

        Watches and Wonders is coming up next week, so manufacturers are starting to announce next products.

        Hodinkee has an introduction for the new 40mm Cartier Ballon Bleu, which has their in-house movement and quick change straps. The Santos and Pasha are anti-magnetic, no news on whether this is too.

        Glashütte Original have a version of their smaller 39.5 mm SeaQ diver's watch with a green dial. I prefer the panorama date model, so hopefully they'll bring it to that one.

        Rado are offering their Captain Cook diver's watch in ceramic. I particularly like the translucent dial.

        Bell and Ross have a new GMT with a black and red bezel. Whilst it would be easy to accuse them of copying Rolex, at least you'll be able to buy one of these at retail. 😃

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        • henry_davidH
          henry_david
          Joined:

          @Graeme:

          Bell and Ross have a new GMT with a black and red bezel. Whilst it would be easy to accuse them of copying Rolex, at least you'll be able to buy one of these at retail. 😃

          LOL – so true dude. I love Rolex and am, at the same time, super bummed about the state of things.

          Either way, stoked to see the new releases set to be unveiled.  😛

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • ChrisC
            Chris
            Raw and Unwashed
            Joined:

            I like that Rado a lot.

            Just read the write up of it on Hodinkee- there's a whole lot of uniqueness going on there  Ceramic case and ceramic bracelet, dial and case back are both black tinted sapphire. I'd love to check this thing out in the real world.

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • GraemeG
              Graeme
              啓蒙家
              Joined:

              @henry_david I'm not considering getting myself a Rolex because of the "if you want X, you have to buy A, B, and C" attitude that dealers have.

              I'm curious to see what they release. There's speculation that the Explorer will get refreshed, as it's the fiftieth anniversary of the Explorer 2 this year, and they're still running the old movements. I'd like to see a new Milgauss too.

              @Chris I like the Rado too. What they're doing is growing on me because most brands are rather conservative.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • JDelageJ
                JDelage
                啓蒙家
                Joined:

                Cartier's designs are consistently good IMHO, even though I like their angular models better.

                That B&R is awe-inspiring.

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • GraemeG
                  Graeme
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined:

                  @henry_david:

                  Either way, stoked to see the new releases set to be unveiled.  😛

                  Rolex posted a teaser, looks like an updated Explorer II with a black ceramic bezel.

                  Available from your local grey dealer soon. 😃

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • EisenherzE
                    Eisenherz
                    Iron Heart Deity
                    Joined:

                    Oh yes, anotherwise 3-4k € over the list price. Insane ???

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • henry_davidH
                      henry_david
                      Joined:

                      Lol so true @Eisenherz  😢

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • EisenherzE
                        Eisenherz
                        Iron Heart Deity
                        Joined:

                        Thats only politics, not more @henry_david
                        😞

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GraemeG
                          Graeme
                          啓蒙家
                          Joined:

                          The first new releases from Watches and Wonders are showing up.

                          The Hamilton Khaki X-Wind is a big chronograph with camouflage dials.

                          The Hermès H08 is a new shape for the maison. I'm surprised it's not available on a leather strap, as they do those so well. There's a model with a grapheme case.

                          Chopard have released the LUC QF Jubilee in steel. It's a limited edition of 25 pieces and already sold out. It's their first non-precious metal watch to undergo the Fleurier Institute's stringent certification process.

                          The NOMOS Metro Neomatik 41 Update combines their in-house movement with their perimeter calendar system.

                          H. Moser & Cie have got on the green dial trend with the Pioneer Centre Seconds Mega Cool. I really like it.

                          The Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph has a manual wind calibre and that on-trend pistachio dial is fantastic.

                          Rolex, Patek, and others should be dropping later.

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • GilesG
                            Giles
                            IHUK Crew
                            Joined:

                            @Graeme:

                            The Hermès H08 is a new shape for the maison.

                            I guess imitation is the sincerest form of flattery…..

                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • GraemeG
                              Graeme
                              啓蒙家
                              Joined:

                              The Patek Nautilus 5711 with a green dial replaces the blue one. No, you won't be able to buy one.

                              IWC have unveiled the downsized Big Pilot 43. It's a few millimetres smaller than the original, and, crucially, a couple slimmer. It has quick release straps, an option for a metal bracelet, sapphire case back, and water resistance is 100 metres, up from 60. However, it loses the soft iron case that protects the movement from magnetism.

                              They've also done the original Big Pilot in a Mojave ceramic case, which I rather like.

                              Cartier has added a Pasha de Cartier chronograph.

                              There are a few new Panerai Luminor Chronographs. The white sandwich dial is my favourite.

                              And there's the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton. I think that it's copying the Patek Aquanaut Chronograph too. 😃

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • louisboscoL
                                louisbosco
                                啓蒙家
                                Joined:

                                that big pilot is beautiful

                                "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                                • Harvey Specter
                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • GraemeG
                                  Graeme
                                  啓蒙家
                                  Joined:

                                  Rolex have updated the Explorer range. They've got the new 32xx generation of movements, but are otherwise identical to the outgoing models. However, I'm not a brand expert, so I'm no doubt missing the subtleties of a slightly different set of hands that recall the original design from 1971…

                                  There is a two tone Explorer I. Why?

                                  However, Rolex have created a crazy palm tree dial, which I quite like.

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • GraemeG
                                    Graeme
                                    啓蒙家
                                    Joined:

                                    I was wrong. The Explorer has been downsized from 39 mm to 36 mm.

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • JDelageJ
                                      JDelage
                                      啓蒙家
                                      Joined:

                                      Green is the new blue eh? Good for me as I love green dials. That green Nautilus would be a dream watch but I cannot even afford to dream of it. Panerai also has a new green dial watch I believe.

                                      The Hermes watch is cool. It reminds me most of the B&R BR05:

                                      and

                                      I like the integrated bracelet B&Ms.

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • louisboscoL
                                        louisbosco
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined:

                                        POV: Nautilus has spiralled out of control in the secondary market.

                                        Patek CEO: We need a solution.
                                        Someone in the company: I know! Let's discontinue it.

                                        Makes absolute zero sense 🤷🏻‍♂️

                                        "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                                        • Harvey Specter
                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • henry_davidH
                                          henry_david
                                          Joined:

                                          I'm just stoked af for the Explorer to be back at 36mm. Either way, not interested given the serviceability issues given that the ENTIRE rotor assembly has to be replaced when it fails.

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • GraemeG
                                            Graeme
                                            啓蒙家
                                            Joined:

                                            I believe that Thierry Stern, Patek's CEO, doesn't want the Nautilus to become too dominant, in the way that the Royal Oak has become the main product for Audemars Piguet, because he's worried that they'll be caught out when fashions change.

                                            But there's been a cultural shift. I've never had to wear a suit to work, and unless I go to work on a bank's IT systems, that's not going to change. I don't see the point in owning a dress watch, but something like a Nautilus, Overseas, or Datejust would be durable enough to cope with day-to-day life, and would also fit in with formal dress on the odd occasions that's needed.

                                            I don't know if Stern is being smart and playing a long game, or he's made a mistake and is on the wrong side of a trend. The watch press tends to be even more subservient than royal correspondents, so it's not as though Hodinkee or the like are questioning his strategy…

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