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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Watches - another OCD problem

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    • GraemeG
      Graeme
      啓蒙家
      Joined:

      The first new releases from Watches and Wonders are showing up.

      The Hamilton Khaki X-Wind is a big chronograph with camouflage dials.

      The Hermès H08 is a new shape for the maison. I'm surprised it's not available on a leather strap, as they do those so well. There's a model with a grapheme case.

      Chopard have released the LUC QF Jubilee in steel. It's a limited edition of 25 pieces and already sold out. It's their first non-precious metal watch to undergo the Fleurier Institute's stringent certification process.

      The NOMOS Metro Neomatik 41 Update combines their in-house movement with their perimeter calendar system.

      H. Moser & Cie have got on the green dial trend with the Pioneer Centre Seconds Mega Cool. I really like it.

      The Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph has a manual wind calibre and that on-trend pistachio dial is fantastic.

      Rolex, Patek, and others should be dropping later.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • GilesG
        Giles
        IHUK Crew
        Joined:

        @Graeme:

        The Hermès H08 is a new shape for the maison.

        I guess imitation is the sincerest form of flattery…..

        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • GraemeG
          Graeme
          啓蒙家
          Joined:

          The Patek Nautilus 5711 with a green dial replaces the blue one. No, you won't be able to buy one.

          IWC have unveiled the downsized Big Pilot 43. It's a few millimetres smaller than the original, and, crucially, a couple slimmer. It has quick release straps, an option for a metal bracelet, sapphire case back, and water resistance is 100 metres, up from 60. However, it loses the soft iron case that protects the movement from magnetism.

          They've also done the original Big Pilot in a Mojave ceramic case, which I rather like.

          Cartier has added a Pasha de Cartier chronograph.

          There are a few new Panerai Luminor Chronographs. The white sandwich dial is my favourite.

          And there's the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton. I think that it's copying the Patek Aquanaut Chronograph too. 😃

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • louisboscoL
            louisbosco
            啓蒙家
            Joined:

            that big pilot is beautiful

            "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

            • Harvey Specter
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            • GraemeG
              Graeme
              啓蒙家
              Joined:

              Rolex have updated the Explorer range. They've got the new 32xx generation of movements, but are otherwise identical to the outgoing models. However, I'm not a brand expert, so I'm no doubt missing the subtleties of a slightly different set of hands that recall the original design from 1971…

              There is a two tone Explorer I. Why?

              However, Rolex have created a crazy palm tree dial, which I quite like.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • GraemeG
                Graeme
                啓蒙家
                Joined:

                I was wrong. The Explorer has been downsized from 39 mm to 36 mm.

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • JDelageJ
                  JDelage
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined:

                  Green is the new blue eh? Good for me as I love green dials. That green Nautilus would be a dream watch but I cannot even afford to dream of it. Panerai also has a new green dial watch I believe.

                  The Hermes watch is cool. It reminds me most of the B&R BR05:

                  and

                  I like the integrated bracelet B&Ms.

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • louisboscoL
                    louisbosco
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined:

                    POV: Nautilus has spiralled out of control in the secondary market.

                    Patek CEO: We need a solution.
                    Someone in the company: I know! Let's discontinue it.

                    Makes absolute zero sense 🤷🏻‍♂️

                    "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                    • Harvey Specter
                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • henry_davidH
                      henry_david
                      Joined:

                      I'm just stoked af for the Explorer to be back at 36mm. Either way, not interested given the serviceability issues given that the ENTIRE rotor assembly has to be replaced when it fails.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • GraemeG
                        Graeme
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined:

                        I believe that Thierry Stern, Patek's CEO, doesn't want the Nautilus to become too dominant, in the way that the Royal Oak has become the main product for Audemars Piguet, because he's worried that they'll be caught out when fashions change.

                        But there's been a cultural shift. I've never had to wear a suit to work, and unless I go to work on a bank's IT systems, that's not going to change. I don't see the point in owning a dress watch, but something like a Nautilus, Overseas, or Datejust would be durable enough to cope with day-to-day life, and would also fit in with formal dress on the odd occasions that's needed.

                        I don't know if Stern is being smart and playing a long game, or he's made a mistake and is on the wrong side of a trend. The watch press tends to be even more subservient than royal correspondents, so it's not as though Hodinkee or the like are questioning his strategy…

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • henry_davidH
                          henry_david
                          Joined:

                          @Graeme:

                          I don't see the point in owning a dress watch, but something like a Nautilus, Overseas, or Datejust would be durable enough to cope with day-to-day life, and would also fit in with formal dress on the odd occasions that's needed.

                          Thus why I rock a vintage DJ dude.

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • Bfd70B
                            Bfd70
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined:

                            Was at a large Rolex AD this weekend. They have 80 spots for watches. They had 10 in stock. They said world wide shortage. I assume covid related. Secondary market is nuts. Agree, good to see Ex 1 at 36. Had a 39. Proportions were just off.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • ChrisC
                              Chris
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              I like that pistachio green dial Breitling and the white dial Panerai.

                              I don't love the palm dial Rolex. I wonder how many of those the company is going to sell?

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GraemeG
                                Graeme
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                                @Chris:

                                I don't love the palm dial Rolex. I wonder how many of those the company is going to sell?

                                You're asking the wrong question @Chris. You should be asking how many will be worn. 😃

                                Rolex will sell thousands of the palm dials, only most will remain in the speculators' safes and continue to appreciate in value because of their perceived rarity.

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • zhivagoZ
                                  zhivago
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  So much heat in these last few pages, dang!! That downsized big pilot has really got a lot going for it. I love the originals but when I tried one out a few years back it was HUGE on my wrist and I am not a small fella. The small one would be hard for me to resist if I happen across one with the right/wrong amount of lubricants in the system…

                                  Zhivago

                                  MM: "we all got to start somewhere"

                                  G: "Never once did he bitch, moan or complain.  He just motivated the team and got on with it"

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • GilesG
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined:

                                    Yeah, it's large, but not in a bad way IMHO…. 😶 😶 😶 😶 😶

                                    Wearing it for a friend  🙂

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • louisboscoL
                                      louisbosco
                                      啓蒙家
                                      Joined:

                                      @Graeme ironically, by discontinuing the nautilus. it's made it more dominant than everything else..

                                      "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                                      • Harvey Specter
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                                      • zhivagoZ
                                        zhivago
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        you're a good friend indeed @Giles

                                        Absolutely beautiful watches and you are doing nothing to squash my desire to own one!!

                                        Zhivago

                                        MM: "we all got to start somewhere"

                                        G: "Never once did he bitch, moan or complain.  He just motivated the team and got on with it"

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • ChrisC
                                          Chris
                                          Raw and Unwashed
                                          Joined:

                                          @Graeme:

                                          You're asking the wrong question @Chris. You should be asking how many will be worn. 😃

                                          Rolex will sell thousands of the palm dials, only most will remain in the speculators' safes and continue to appreciate in value because of their perceived rarity.

                                          Lol, fair point.  🙂

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • GraemeG
                                            Graeme
                                            啓蒙家
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                                            I like the bronze Big Pilot with the big date, aside from the unfortunate "Mission Accomplished" name!

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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