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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Watches - another OCD problem

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    • GraemeG
      Graeme
      啓蒙家
      Joined:

      Watches and Wonders is coming up next week, so manufacturers are starting to announce next products.

      Hodinkee has an introduction for the new 40mm Cartier Ballon Bleu, which has their in-house movement and quick change straps. The Santos and Pasha are anti-magnetic, no news on whether this is too.

      Glashütte Original have a version of their smaller 39.5 mm SeaQ diver's watch with a green dial. I prefer the panorama date model, so hopefully they'll bring it to that one.

      Rado are offering their Captain Cook diver's watch in ceramic. I particularly like the translucent dial.

      Bell and Ross have a new GMT with a black and red bezel. Whilst it would be easy to accuse them of copying Rolex, at least you'll be able to buy one of these at retail. 😃

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      • henry_davidH
        henry_david
        Joined:

        @Graeme:

        Bell and Ross have a new GMT with a black and red bezel. Whilst it would be easy to accuse them of copying Rolex, at least you'll be able to buy one of these at retail. 😃

        LOL – so true dude. I love Rolex and am, at the same time, super bummed about the state of things.

        Either way, stoked to see the new releases set to be unveiled.  😛

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        • ChrisC
          Chris
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          I like that Rado a lot.

          Just read the write up of it on Hodinkee- there's a whole lot of uniqueness going on there  Ceramic case and ceramic bracelet, dial and case back are both black tinted sapphire. I'd love to check this thing out in the real world.

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          • GraemeG
            Graeme
            啓蒙家
            Joined:

            @henry_david I'm not considering getting myself a Rolex because of the "if you want X, you have to buy A, B, and C" attitude that dealers have.

            I'm curious to see what they release. There's speculation that the Explorer will get refreshed, as it's the fiftieth anniversary of the Explorer 2 this year, and they're still running the old movements. I'd like to see a new Milgauss too.

            @Chris I like the Rado too. What they're doing is growing on me because most brands are rather conservative.

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            • JDelageJ
              JDelage
              啓蒙家
              Joined:

              Cartier's designs are consistently good IMHO, even though I like their angular models better.

              That B&R is awe-inspiring.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • GraemeG
                Graeme
                啓蒙家
                Joined:

                @henry_david:

                Either way, stoked to see the new releases set to be unveiled.  😛

                Rolex posted a teaser, looks like an updated Explorer II with a black ceramic bezel.

                Available from your local grey dealer soon. 😃

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                • EisenherzE
                  Eisenherz
                  Iron Heart Deity
                  Joined:

                  Oh yes, anotherwise 3-4k € over the list price. Insane ???

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                  • henry_davidH
                    henry_david
                    Joined:

                    Lol so true @Eisenherz  😢

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                    • EisenherzE
                      Eisenherz
                      Iron Heart Deity
                      Joined:

                      Thats only politics, not more @henry_david
                      😞

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • GraemeG
                        Graeme
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined:

                        The first new releases from Watches and Wonders are showing up.

                        The Hamilton Khaki X-Wind is a big chronograph with camouflage dials.

                        The Hermès H08 is a new shape for the maison. I'm surprised it's not available on a leather strap, as they do those so well. There's a model with a grapheme case.

                        Chopard have released the LUC QF Jubilee in steel. It's a limited edition of 25 pieces and already sold out. It's their first non-precious metal watch to undergo the Fleurier Institute's stringent certification process.

                        The NOMOS Metro Neomatik 41 Update combines their in-house movement with their perimeter calendar system.

                        H. Moser & Cie have got on the green dial trend with the Pioneer Centre Seconds Mega Cool. I really like it.

                        The Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph has a manual wind calibre and that on-trend pistachio dial is fantastic.

                        Rolex, Patek, and others should be dropping later.

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                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          @Graeme:

                          The Hermès H08 is a new shape for the maison.

                          I guess imitation is the sincerest form of flattery…..

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • GraemeG
                            Graeme
                            啓蒙家
                            Joined:

                            The Patek Nautilus 5711 with a green dial replaces the blue one. No, you won't be able to buy one.

                            IWC have unveiled the downsized Big Pilot 43. It's a few millimetres smaller than the original, and, crucially, a couple slimmer. It has quick release straps, an option for a metal bracelet, sapphire case back, and water resistance is 100 metres, up from 60. However, it loses the soft iron case that protects the movement from magnetism.

                            They've also done the original Big Pilot in a Mojave ceramic case, which I rather like.

                            Cartier has added a Pasha de Cartier chronograph.

                            There are a few new Panerai Luminor Chronographs. The white sandwich dial is my favourite.

                            And there's the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton. I think that it's copying the Patek Aquanaut Chronograph too. 😃

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                            • louisboscoL
                              louisbosco
                              啓蒙家
                              Joined:

                              that big pilot is beautiful

                              "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                              • Harvey Specter
                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GraemeG
                                Graeme
                                啓蒙家
                                Joined:

                                Rolex have updated the Explorer range. They've got the new 32xx generation of movements, but are otherwise identical to the outgoing models. However, I'm not a brand expert, so I'm no doubt missing the subtleties of a slightly different set of hands that recall the original design from 1971…

                                There is a two tone Explorer I. Why?

                                However, Rolex have created a crazy palm tree dial, which I quite like.

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                                • GraemeG
                                  Graeme
                                  啓蒙家
                                  Joined:

                                  I was wrong. The Explorer has been downsized from 39 mm to 36 mm.

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • JDelageJ
                                    JDelage
                                    啓蒙家
                                    Joined:

                                    Green is the new blue eh? Good for me as I love green dials. That green Nautilus would be a dream watch but I cannot even afford to dream of it. Panerai also has a new green dial watch I believe.

                                    The Hermes watch is cool. It reminds me most of the B&R BR05:

                                    and

                                    I like the integrated bracelet B&Ms.

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                                    • louisboscoL
                                      louisbosco
                                      啓蒙家
                                      Joined:

                                      POV: Nautilus has spiralled out of control in the secondary market.

                                      Patek CEO: We need a solution.
                                      Someone in the company: I know! Let's discontinue it.

                                      Makes absolute zero sense 🤷🏻‍♂️

                                      "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                                      • Harvey Specter
                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • henry_davidH
                                        henry_david
                                        Joined:

                                        I'm just stoked af for the Explorer to be back at 36mm. Either way, not interested given the serviceability issues given that the ENTIRE rotor assembly has to be replaced when it fails.

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                                        • GraemeG
                                          Graeme
                                          啓蒙家
                                          Joined:

                                          I believe that Thierry Stern, Patek's CEO, doesn't want the Nautilus to become too dominant, in the way that the Royal Oak has become the main product for Audemars Piguet, because he's worried that they'll be caught out when fashions change.

                                          But there's been a cultural shift. I've never had to wear a suit to work, and unless I go to work on a bank's IT systems, that's not going to change. I don't see the point in owning a dress watch, but something like a Nautilus, Overseas, or Datejust would be durable enough to cope with day-to-day life, and would also fit in with formal dress on the odd occasions that's needed.

                                          I don't know if Stern is being smart and playing a long game, or he's made a mistake and is on the wrong side of a trend. The watch press tends to be even more subservient than royal correspondents, so it's not as though Hodinkee or the like are questioning his strategy…

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                                          • henry_davidH
                                            henry_david
                                            Joined:

                                            @Graeme:

                                            I don't see the point in owning a dress watch, but something like a Nautilus, Overseas, or Datejust would be durable enough to cope with day-to-day life, and would also fit in with formal dress on the odd occasions that's needed.

                                            Thus why I rock a vintage DJ dude.

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