Conflicted and could use some advice
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(Pictured edited for clear visual of silhouette)
Howdy all, I’ve been struggling with my pair of 21 oz 634s recently and could use some opinions and advice. In June of 2024 I experienced a health related loss in my family and underwent a 60 lbs weight loss as I had let my health go for a few years starting in college. Since then I’ve gotten into the raw denim interest and currently own 3 different pairs— Samurai S510xx19oz ii’s, the IH-634-142, and these IH-634s-21’s.
Very early on Iron heart had caught my eye and I knew I wanted to have atleast one pair in my collection. I bought the 14 oz version at my local brick’n’mortar and was fairly pleased with them. They’re about 90-100 wears in, but with the recent cooler weather I went to wearing the 21 version. I love the fabric, I love the durability, the details, etc etc. One aspect I’m struggling with is the fit.
The waist seems to be spot on, I can get two fingers into my waistband, put my hand in the front flat without having to strain, have thins in my pockets and the pants don’t fall without a belt, all that jazz. This particular pair has a 13.6” thigh measurement as i genetically have larger thighs, and still hold some amount of fat in my thighs even after losing 60 lbs. when standing they feel fine, roomy even, but when sitting they start to snug up quick. Along with that, this pair seems to have this unsightly bulging in the front of the top block. I can’t diagnose what the issue is, weather it’s one dimension being too big or too small, having too much junk in the trunk, too low of rise, the list goes on of possible issues.
When standing regularly, I get these two noticeable creases that outline my pelvic area. This aspect makes me incredibly self conscious as when looking from the side it sticks OUT, and along with having some amount of ass, visually makes me feel like I look like a lollipop, with my legs going up and just a round shape on either side of them. Along with that, from the front I always notice these flared hips (not well documented in the photos) that seem to be from the back pockets and excess thigh fabric poking out of the sides.
I’m about 35 ish wears into this pair, and I know in many cases the fabric just needs to break in before it fits shape better, but after browsing countless fit checks in this cut, I’m starting to think that it just does not look good on me.
My waist is roughly 34”, with wider hips, and thighs that are somewhere between 24.5-25” in diameter (measured both standing and sitting). For the life of me I don’t know if I just continue to nitpick too much or if these genuinely just don’t work. I love the look of a straight cut jean, but on me they continue to appear weirdly slim in the legs, and then baggy/pointy in the crotch. For reference, I’ve added a photo at the end of me wearing a pair of the Vintage Fit Orslow fatigues in a size 4 (I’ve sized down to the 3 since). Am I just not suited for iron hearts? If I size down the thighs won’t fit comfortably, and if I size up, the waist will be too big. I’ve seen the recommendation to check out the 888, but based on the size charts, the thigh measurements don’t seem all that relaxed. I’ve also looked at the Oni 266 “relaxed straight” cut, which has similar dimensions to the Orslow fatigues.
Will these issues ever resolve themself, or should I cut my losses and try to sell this pair and move on to a different cut/brand?
Brutal honesty is always appreciated, and thank you for any advice.
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In the pic without a shirt, the jeans look a little big on you, to be honest. I'm wondering if sizing down would help?
Do you live close to any IH retailers? Your best bet might be to try on some different sizes or different cuts. It depends on your body type, but generally, 634 should be a little more fitted in the top block, and shouldn't lead to that bulging. Without a retailer nearby, you can always order multiple sizes from IH (just don't get them hemmed!) and return the ones that don't fit.
“Good design is actually a lot harder to notice than poor design, in part because good designs fit our needs so well that the design is invisible” - Don Norman
@zeebeeleather
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You may want to try a different cut? I have found that the 634 always has a prominent crotch with the fly bulging and sometimes the weird gathering that you’re experiencing. Of course, by body is a different shape than yours, being a woman, but I’ve always chalked it up to the 634 having a lower-mid rear rise by comparison to its mid rise front. This combined with my large butt and thighs makes the front bunch up weird. I’ve found on most of my pairs that it’s settled a bit, but never goes away. Have you tried the 888?
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@sabergirl It's funny you mention the 888, because I get a little of the bulging effect from the 888 cut! It really does come down to body type. Some people can pull of the 888 brilliantly. I'm not sure if that's me, but I still wear them often. I think my ideal cut is actually the 633. My giant thighs are comfortable in 634, 633, and 888.
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@seawolf I do have Mildblend here in Chicago, however the availability of Iron Heart jeans in the cuts, sizes, and fabrics has been fairly limited as of late. I ordered these 21oz 634’s directly from IH. They’re long past the return period, aside from being worn for about a month and hemmed
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@hello_4lex Oh, I wasn't suggesting returning the ones you already have. I was suggesting ordering more from IHUK and trying them on and returning what doesn't work for you.
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463 are really the one for me, @seawolf —the low front rise w/a high back rise is where it’s at! It really is true that it takes trial and error to find the right cut, though.
I have also embraced sacrificing fit for fabric and finish to continue wearing IH in some instances, I will admit.
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@sabergirl unfortunately I haven’t been able to try on the 888s anywhere near me. Based on the size chart it seems like they wouldn’t be as roomy as I’d like in the thighs, which the 634’s seemed to do better in for me. My issue is that my thighs still seem proportionally large compared to my waist (at least the pants-waist, my natural waist as well, but I’ve still got a bit of love handles in-between those two points)
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Without your commentary, just looking at the photos, I don't really notice the issues you described. So, may be a bit of overthinking.
They will also continue to relax and mold with more wear, keep at it.
Your body type sounds similar to mine in terms of 634 being the preferred silhouette but needing more thigh room. I believe the new relaxed straight cut is designed for us, so keep an eye out for that.
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@68degreesorless are you referring to the 1955 cut? I was intrigued by these but noticed their released are quite sparse following the 21oz and 14oz releases unfortunately. They looked promising, I was just too late to get a pair myself!
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@68degreesorless convenient that a fellow Alex has the same size in jeans as me, this sizing chart and sample looks promising. Cool to see IH developing new cuts with the community in mind. Thanks for dropping this link!
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Just my opinion, but it doesn't look unsightly to me. The higher double cuff/Tokyo cuff with the birks on looks dialed. I personally like having a higher cuff with the roomier top blocks and letting gravity do its work to avoid any bunching up top. But honestly, don't overthink it, if you feel comfortable, then rock it brotha.
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@derek111 that photo was taken just before I ended up getting them hemmed! Decided to go for a shorter inseam (all the other photos are up to date I think) since my 14 oz 634s I just opted to keep full length. I like that look for the summer, but wanted to keep these longer to keep the nasty cold Chicago air out for the cold seasons
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@louisbosco not yet, just under 40 wears, but even from when I first received the the fabric seemed incredibly soft in the 21oz denim. Do they get much softer with more washing?
Currently wearing:
Samurai S510xx 19oz ii
IH-634s-142
IH-634s-21 -
As someone who is guilty of overthinking these kinds of things, you’re overthinking it IMO. There will be the odd fit that looks absolutely perfect, but most people have weird creases in their jeans somewhere because they’re made to fit every body.
Congratulations on the weight loss, it’s not an easy thing to do.
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@NickD thank you! Unfortunate that it took a tragic moment to spark that motivation in me, but I’m still proud of the progress. I agree to some degree that I’m likely overthinking, (likely some level of dysmorphia following the weight loss) but I just want to look spiffy in my nice jeans!! Might as well keep them going and maybe once that new relaxed straight cut releases I can pick those up to see if they fit the bill better. Got a few months of cold up ahead so time to put the work into these 21 ounces
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@hello_4lex I do find that washing it helps soften the fabric. That goes for my 21/23 raw, 25 and 17slubs..
But of course, 40 wears in is still relatively new. Wearing it and washing as you go few months at a time will definitely help the fabric settle in due course..
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We may have similar body types. Me from a lifetime of skiing, hiking, and riding sportbikes. So like you, I've struggled to find cuts that accommodate muscular thighs and still have room for proper glutes. For Iron Heart, this means the 888 and the 634, and the 633 from Self Edge. I get a similar drape in the front like you do, with much of it due to both the stiff and thick nature of the fabric and due to the extra burly construction of the button fly. Even my heavy Naked & Famous Weird Guy jeans do this. Seems par for the course.
And like you, I also overthink these things. A lot. The pictures you posted look good. Keep wearing 'em in. The advice here has been great.
Sorry to hear about the tragedy. And glad to hear that you used it to lose some weight.
