Help me find an engineer boot
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Just an aside to say thanks to @Bobcat-Sig for starting this thread and to all the forum members contributing. I’m “engineer curious” and there’s been a ton of useful information here.
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One thing that isn’t mentioned is socks. These can make or break a great fit on any engineer boot.
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There’s also some slight variation on the height of the structures. I thought at first my black CXL horsebutt did not have structure, but it was much lower than my other boots.
All that being said, the lack of structure in the two pairs doesn’t bother me. truth be told all my Wesco engineers I wear casually. I’m not wearing them on job sites like I do with some of my other engineers so they’re all in pretty good to great shape
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I probably have way too many Darn Tough socks, but I adjust between lightweight cushion, medium cushioned and heavyweight full cushion depending on the time of year and whether I’m retaining water, lol. Of course, there are some boots I could never wear with Heavy full cushion, but I definitely move between the three types.
And I can’t remember if we talked about this already, but removing the Wesco insert and putting a thinner leather insert in sometimes helps too with fit. I’ve gone back to the Wesco after they’re broken in.
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@Mlwdp said in Help me find an engineer boot:
One thing that isn’t mentioned is socks. These can make or break a great fit on any engineer boot.
Very much agreed about socks. I learned that lesson long ago, alpine ski racing.
@northsouthdenimguy said in Help me find an engineer boot:
There’s also some slight variation on the height of the structures. I thought at first my black CXL horsebutt did not have structure, but it was much lower than my other boots.
All that being said, the lack of structure in the two pairs doesn’t bother me. truth be told all my Wesco engineers I wear casually. I’m not wearing them on job sites like I do with some of my other engineers so they’re all in pretty good to great shape
That’s good detail. My engineers are, or were, worn casually. And that’s my intent for whatever I end up with next, be it a new pair or if Wesco can get mine fitting better.
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@northsouthdenimguy You got me thinking about swapping my leather insoles for Rose Anvil thin foam insoles as I’m getting older and I wear my Wescos a lot.
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@SKT My pleasure. I didn’t intend it to become a live blog, more that I wanted to tap into the vast knowledge and experience of the crew here. And in so doing, help other along the way. I’m glad it’s helping.
Related, I did come across this video from our friends at Wesco with a deep-dive on lasts, fit, and toe-styles. No better source than the manufacturer itself, no?
There’s some great detail in there about toe profiles, last sizing, and how tall and low heels fit differently. I aimed to parse it out, but I risk confusing you more. Watch it if you’re unsure or want the details between the Boss last and the Mr Lou last.
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Update! (sort of): My pair of boots were a Covid pair, and there were some differences in the heel structuring used based on availability and so forth. Mercifully, Wesco is down the road, so I'm bringing my custom engineer boots into the shop with the idea that maybe the heel can be replaced, the counter peeled back, and a thicker structure inserted for more support and an actual heel cup.
Updates to follow since this is my new boot quest blog...

Related, I've been deep down the John Lofgren and The Flat Head rabbit holes. I'm irrationally tempted to source a pair of JLs in the hope that I can stretch and break them in. What I've read tells me that counter and heel construction will make it a commitment. I'm trying to be sensible here, but my, those are some handsome boots!
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Update! (Since this is my chronicle) I had the chance to get up to Wesco HQ yesterday afternoon and spend 90 minutes with the world-famous Chris Warren. The short of it is that Chris is a model for peerless customer service because Wesco is going to relast my boots from what was a 9 EE with a short heel to a 9 EE with some build-up at the arch, and adding a taller heel.
Should be a few weeks.
I also had a chance to try on a couple pairs of Mr Lous and 7500 Boss engineers. Mr Lous are still probably a no-go for me given their smaller shaft and my tall in-step. But I was able to size out to a 9.5E 7500 Boss, so mega bonus there. I also foot-fondled some Romeos and I’ll be putting in for a custom build. I loved that slipper-shoe-boot thing.
I’ve also been trading some emails with Standard & Strange since they stock so many different boots. We’ll see if I we can something in addition to Wesco. More to come!
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@Bobcat-Sig sounds like a good information gathering trip. I’ve been very curious about the Romeo and have thought many times about putting in for a custom build. How did they fit compared to the tall boots you tried on? Same ballpark?
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@SKT said in Help me find an engineer boot:
@Bobcat-Sig sounds like a good information gathering trip. I’ve been very curious about the Romeo and have thought many times about putting in for a custom build. How did they fit compared to the tall boots you tried on? Same ballpark?
Great question. And the short of it is, sort of.
Chris shared the story of me that they wanted to produce a tough slip-on shoe or slipper for the loggers wearing the corked boots, or for those wanting something easy to get on and off. Apparently, they sell tons of them in Japan.
Expect a firm handshake around the mid and forefoot with some wiggle room in the toes. If you have a high instep and PTSD from boots over the years giving you hell in that area, that won't be a problem in that area of the shoe, mercifully. To put some detail to it, I size out to a 9.5 E in the Hendrik and Johannes boots, and the same in the Boss engineer boots, including the 7500. I'm probably the same in a Mr Lou, but that's an all-around super tight boot on me, to the point of being too painful to wear.
When new, the Romeo does take more effort to get into than you'd think, given the gore stretch panels and low nature of the shoe. But I'm sure that loosens up over time, where you'll be able to step right into it. The best part is no pressure at all over the instep.
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Romeo do loosen over time; adding a toe cap makes the break in longer. It took me awhile for my break in but they’re comfy now (with toe cap). I wear mine working in a shop, errand, etc.
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@Mlwdp Good to know, thank you. I figured the toe cap adds a bit, but I intend these in a similar manner, and to wear to and from riding dirt bikes.
I’m thinking black rough-out. Which leather did you go with? And how is it holding up?
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I currently have a burgundy domain makeup that was a collab with Roller Magazine, . At the time, navy leather insoles were available.
I’ve noticed naturally when I have too much salt in my diet/summer, sometimes my feet would swell, making the Romeo’s feel tighter, no matter the socks I’m wearing. Same thing for any other shoe though.
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