IH-555-XHS - 25oz Selvedge Denim Slim Jeans - Indigo
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Thanks for the reply. What temp, or does it matter.
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Thanks for the reply. What temp, or does it matter.
Joe, there are a lot of variations in method. If you look at the A4 showet with instructions for washing that came with your jeans, there are instructions for what to do with UHR. I tend to follow that with most jeans. The reason is that it is a thorough process that will get the most shrinkage out, but also because it is the best method for avoiding abrasion marks. The most important thing is that when it comes to the machine wash the jeans are already soaked and that the spin setting is as low as possible.
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Does anyone know how much the 25oz XHS varies from lot to lot?
I received a pair of 633-XHS from Self Edge last fall and a pair of 555-XHS about 3 months later. The 633's from SE got a good hot soak upon arrival to shrink them up & the 555's are still dry.
The differences between these pairs in significant. The 633's from Self Edge are soft as sweat pants & developed that feel without any effort. They are also darker but what I'm most curious about is the weave? The 555's directly from Iron Heart look very bright & appear to show a lot more of the weft (? the white threads). The denim directly from Iron Heart is also noticeably stiffer & even with a few wears you can tell it's from stubborn & maybe woven under more tension?
Can anyone shed light on this topic?
Thanks,
JImages for comparison:
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I have one pair of now aging XHS and the XHSib so can’t really compare batches for you. Not sure many (any?) can. Unless you have two pairs at hand that are unsoaked, unwashed and unworn then you’re comparing apples and oranges.
Obviously there is the potential for small changes in batches. A recently tuned loom, a different batch of indigo, hell, air humidity, can all theoretically make a small difference. That being said, neither of those pairs look “wrong” to my eyes. Most of the difference could probably be attributable to other factors than differences between batches.
A hot soak makes quite a difference to a pair of jeans, and along with wear I’d say that is responsible for most of the variation. Indigo is water soluble meaning that some of it will have shifted during the soak, colouring the weft which will take up the dye easily. The colour change in indigo that a hot soak creates in marked. Shrinkage will also have occurred, further hiding more of the weft. Nor does it take many wears for denim to start losing its crunchiness. Obviously this is based on your pics and my experience so I’m speculating to a degree, based on imperfect data, but that’s my two cents.
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I have never noticed any appreciable difference, but then I have never looked for it. Soaking this denim makes a massive difference to both the hand and look.
That said, this is the most difficult denim we make to weave, so I am sure there will be appreciable differences between lots.
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These jeans are true body armour. Got pulled by security, the x-ray machine at Frankfurt airport couldn’t penetrate my jeans.
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Got pulled by security, the x-ray machine at Frankfurt airport couldn’t penetrate my jeans….
Classic! Still hasn’t happened to me though, need to wear UHR next time I fly.
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That's actually a nice thing about flying through Texas airports- they see metal in boots so often around here, the TSA folks don't even blink. But I've still been subjected to additional screening for IH shirts and jeans, though.
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one of my favorite characteristics of this denim is how HAIRY it is!
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So, I finally warm soaked mine with a squirt of MrBlacks denim wash. Result: They have softened beautifully and now truly feel custom made. I took the plunge, as I feared the early origins of honeycombing (100 wears) would be out of alignment round my knee if they shrunk in anyway. I was wrong, there was no movement in length whatsoever, just a reminder of how snug the waist was when I originally purchased. 3 swift wears later, the most comfortable and reassuring jeans I own… period!
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Excellent photos. I’m keeping an eye out for the restock in size 31. Nice to see how they fit.
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Excellent news. I may go up to a tag size 32 in these as the 555 21 oz version are slightly tight in the knees and thighs for me. I’ll give them a hand wash in cold or slightly lukewarm water (to protect the leather patch) and hopefully get most of the shrinkage out of the inside leg.
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These jeans are true body armour. Got pulled by security, the x-ray machine at Frankfurt airport couldn’t penetrate my jeans.
This happened to me last summer wearing my 21oz 555s! Every single scanner there was an extra scan and pat down
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Excellent news. I may go up to a tag size 32 in these as the 555 21 oz version are slightly tight in the knees and thighs for me. I’ll give them a hand wash in cold or slightly lukewarm water (to protect the leather patch) and hopefully get most of the shrinkage out of the inside leg.
A fellow Glaswegian! So there’s at least two of us who have exquisite taste in denim!
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Excellent news. I may go up to a tag size 32 in these as the 555 21 oz version are slightly tight in the knees and thighs for me. I’ll give them a hand wash in cold or slightly lukewarm water (to protect the leather patch) and hopefully get most of the shrinkage out of the inside leg.
I went up to a size 32 as well! I had the same feeling about it being slight too snug in the thigh on the 21oz 555s. The 25oz fit incredibly well even though they are stiff to begin with.[with pics of course!]
