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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Pearls Of (Denim) Wisdom - OR - This Much I Know (about denim).

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    • DstaufferD
      Dstauffer
      啓蒙家
      Joined:

      I know it won't happen, but I pray every night for a UHR in the 463 cut  😃

      You won’t be satisfied until you wear Iron Heart.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • mclaincauseyM
        mclaincausey
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        @neph93:

        I’ve always found finding the correct inseam length to be very difficult. I think because I was a sneakerhead when I started buying IH I got used to longer inseams to let the denim drape over my Adidas. Now that I mostly wear Engineers I need a much shorter length. I like different inseam lengths on different cuts too.

        Interesting–I tend to appreciate length more with boots because the boots (particularly engineers and cowboys) push the hem up the leg and form great stacks, and with sneakers that same length may drag on the floor and destroy the hem, especially at the back. My jeans always tend to be a bit long though, long enough to cuff if I liked cuffing. I also tend to wear a given pair of jeans with any style of footwear aside from formal or sandal (I don't have "boot" or "sneaker" jeans, especially since I've moved on from 634), so my mileage varies.

        That reminds me of another thing I've noticed: particularly with new stiff jeans, don't freak out if the knees poke out from upward pressure along the shin from the cuffs resting on your shoes. It may look weird to you, but as the fabric softens and slackens, the effect will diminish.

        Think it, be it.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • neph93N
          neph93
          見習いボス
          Joined:

          I believe I read recently that the 888-UHR is getting a re-run with what’s left of the denim. Then it’s done.

          «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
          We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

          • Dame Vera Lynn
          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • AlexA
            Alex
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            ^This is true

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • neph93N
              neph93
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              @mclaincausey:

              That reminds me of another thing I've noticed: particularly with new stiff jeans, don't freak out if the knees poke out from upward pressure along the shin from the cuffs resting on your shoes. It may look weird to you, but as the fabric softens and slackens, the effect will diminish.

              ^ Denim pearl of wisdom right there.

              Regarding the boot/hemming the issue was specific to the 888 cut with me. The stacking caused the jeans to bunch in all sorts of weird places, all the way up to the top block. Now that they drop a little more naturally that issue has gone. That was my point though, that sometimes a re-hem can alter the silhouette of the entire jean.

              My 666’s stack with boots in a different way and I do as you say and have them longer.

              My hypothesis (and I realise I spend waaaaay to much time thinking about this) is that there are different hem lengths that work with different cuts and different footwear. And then there’s personal preference if course….

              «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
              We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

              • Dame Vera Lynn
              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • DstaufferD
                Dstauffer
                啓蒙家
                Joined:

                😢 😢 😢
                RIP UHR

                You won’t be satisfied until you wear Iron Heart.

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • yinzerY
                  yinzer
                  Joined:

                  @gaseousclay:

                  @neph93:

                  I especially agree about sanforisation. STF can be exciting but it complicates an already tricky job.

                  I don't own unsanforized denim because I fear the unpredictibility. Although, the 777 UHR's are very nice and may persuade me.

                  You really need to get an unsanforized pair man….

                  It was an "ah-ha" moment for me. They break in %100 faster, and normally drape better and the comfort is much nicer. It's not even comparable to most sanforized.

                  I'm not an IH fan boy like I once was, but their 21oz is comparable to unsanforized in break in and wear though.

                  Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • UnTuckedU
                    UnTucked
                    Joined:

                    @Alex:

                    ^This is true

                    This is good news.

                    I'll wait to buy jeans until then.

                    In search of:
                    IHV-04, med.
                    IHSH-185, large
                    IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • AlexA
                      Alex
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined:

                      It's a couple of weeks away, and we have quite a lot of 888-UHR in stock still..

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • ChapC
                        Chap
                        見習いボス
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                        @Alex:

                        It's a couple of weeks away, and we have quite a lot of 888-UHR in stock still..

                        Yeah lots of 888-UHR still in stock… so why not doing half and half some 888 and some 634...  ;D... my order would be certain (or a/some 634-UHR custom orders with a little extra charge)

                        God has blessed you richly, so get down on your knees and thank him. Don’t forget the less fortunate or God will personally kick your ass. I’d love to do it for him, but I can’t be everywhere. Willie Nelson

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          Too late, the run is almost complete…...

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                          • steelworkerS
                            steelworker
                            見習いボス
                            Joined:

                            Yeah, I don't believe I've any sanforized IH's but a lot (a lot) of UHR's because they're so good. FH, Samurai Ooe's, SC-all unsanforized. As @neph93 said sizing  isn't brain surgery & if you're not happy with the fit you can hot wash or dry. With sanforized  you get what you get.

                            Those are my principles, and if you don't like them…
                            Well, I have others.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • ChapC
                              Chap
                              見習いボス
                              Joined:

                              @Giles:

                              Too late, the run is almost complete…...

                              Well… should probably go for the 888 then or otherwise I will never be able to join in when all the cool guys are talking about the legendary IH UHR  😉 😛

                              Sorry I know this getting very much off topic now...

                              God has blessed you richly, so get down on your knees and thank him. Don’t forget the less fortunate or God will personally kick your ass. I’d love to do it for him, but I can’t be everywhere. Willie Nelson

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • neph93N
                                neph93
                                見習いボス
                                Joined:

                                @yinzer:

                                @gaseousclay:

                                You really need to get an unsanforized pair man….

                                It was an "ah-ha" moment for me. They break in %100 faster, and normally drape better and the comfort is much nicer. It's not even comparable to most sanforized.

                                I'm not an IH fan boy like I once was, but their 21oz is comparable to unsanforized in break in and wear though.

                                For me the denim has to be pretty special to bother with unsanforised. I won’t disagree that the results can be great and quick, but you can get that with sanforised denim too. The IH vintage 18oz as used on the IH-634S-18 fades as quickly and attractively as the UHR and has a similar crispy, hairy texture.

                                I also agree that the 21oz is a great break in. Ironically it receives the most post weave treatment of all the IH denims.

                                «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                                We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                                • Dame Vera Lynn
                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • mclaincauseyM
                                  mclaincausey
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined:

                                  I have an example for your consideration.

                                  Unsanforized 17oz LHT gray weft:

                                  Sanforized 18oz RHT indigo weft:

                                  Comparing an apple to a pear, the question is, was the hassle of unsanforized worth it? The SG are about an inch too large in the waist right now, the IH can be worn without a belt. So I think it was worth it, but based on the strength of the fades on the sanforized pair, I no longer consider loomstate a necessity. The early promise of the vintage 18oz denim are firming up my position on sanforization further still, as I think they have the potential to be my favorite fade project yet. Yes, you can have character in sanforized denim. Don't believe the hype stating otherwise, it's just more bullshit denim lore.

                                  Further, my experience with these pairs has made me a firm believer in polycotton constructional thread. The SGs really fell apart, and my 5105 were even worse. Wabi sabi is great but I want the jeans to last, or else you'll never get the fabric to a cool state of fade, which is the coolest wabi sabi.

                                  Think it, be it.

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                                  • SeulS
                                    Seul
                                    Joined:

                                    If I recall correctly, LHT fades differently than RHT either way, no?..

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • mclaincauseyM
                                      mclaincausey
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      Yep, hence the apples to pears remark. These are very different denims.

                                      Think it, be it.

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • SeulS
                                        Seul
                                        Joined:

                                        Ah ok - my bad… I don't get all the POWs I guess... For me it's just:

                                        "Buy jeans that fit"
                                        "Wear them"

                                        'bout it.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • SeulS
                                          Seul
                                          Joined:

                                          ^But this is probably why I've made the change to workpants… Cause I don't care about fades and guess what: workpants are nicer to work in 🙂

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • gaseousclayG
                                            gaseousclay
                                            Joined:

                                            For those of you with experience, does unsanforized denim shrink even more after an initial hot soak? I'm thinking the inseam specifically. So if you're on your 2nd or 3rd wash will the denim shrink to the point where they become unwearable, or does that first hot soak get all the shrink out?

                                            WTB:
                                            IHSH-129 size L (blue)
                                            IHSH-19

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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