There's no Such Thing as a Stupid Question
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I don't know the answer, but an easy give away is if the hem pulls slightly tight leading to more pronounced roping, this is a "fault" of the union special.
I know many Japanese sewing houses use a mix between American machines (Union Specials) and the Japanese version, the Kansai Special.
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To further muddy the waters the Kansai can be frigged to replicate the fault of the Union.
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We use the same Union Special "head" (a 43200G) in the UK as the heads we use in the workshops in Japan, but these are not cadcam machines, they are not designed to produce uniform results. There are dozens of variables that can be tweaked. We have 2 * 43200G's in the UK, one is set up for 18-25oz but it is virtually impossible to hem 14oz denim on it, so the second machine is currently being set up (needs some bits made for it, so that all user inputs, result in same machine movements) to do the "light-stuff".
The roping is caused by the interaction between the feed foot and the folder. It's actually got nothing to do with the sewing machine itself, I could put a folder in front of any chain-stitching machine and get roping….
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That's what I meant by frigging the Kansai, just couldn't remember which bit caused the roping.
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Yeah, it's skewing from unequal movement by the feed dog on the bottom and the presser foot on top. I can make a standard flatbed lockstitch machine put roping on a hem. Not easily, but I'm largely incompetent…
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And I thought I was a denim nerd.
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I used to obsess over details, slubs, loom chatter, singed finishes, unbleached wefts etc….. These days I just wear jeans that I like and don't think too much about it
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I just wear jeans that I like and don't think too much about it
Wise words to live by.
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FRIGGING IN THE RIGGIN
FRIGGING IN THE RIGGIN
FRIGGING IN THE RIGGIN
THERE WAS FUCK ALL ELSE TO DOOOOwords of wisdom from the mad Belgian
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The Sex Pistols misappropriated my regional vernacular
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Will IHUK ship to Hawaii?
