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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    There's no Such Thing as a Stupid Question

    Some Really Boring (but useful) and Some Really Interesting Stuff!
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    • rocketR
      rocket
      Joined:

      if this would only be true….

      rocketrocksrox 🤙🏼🤙🏾

      It's all humbug, like everywhere
      R.I.P. Geo

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • SeulS
        Seul
        Joined:

        Hey if you don't want the montly bucket of carrots: I'll gladly take 'm!..

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • rocketR
          rocket
          Joined:

          ironical I just eating some…

          rocketrocksrox 🤙🏼🤙🏾

          It's all humbug, like everywhere
          R.I.P. Geo

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • DionD
            Dion
            Joined:

            Are all IH jeans chainstitched on a Union Special in the workshops where they're being produced or only if hemmed at IHUK? The original hem is slightly different than the one after hemming.

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • neph93N
              neph93
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              ^ good question that.

              “Some of those that work forces
              Are the same that burn crosses”

              • Virginia Woolf
              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Megatron1505M
                Megatron1505
                見習いボス
                Joined:

                I don't know the answer, but an easy give away is if the hem pulls slightly tight leading to more pronounced roping, this is a "fault" of the union special.

                I know many Japanese sewing houses use a mix between American machines (Union Specials) and the Japanese version, the Kansai Special.

                Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • Megatron1505M
                  Megatron1505
                  見習いボス
                  Joined:

                  To further muddy the waters the Kansai can be frigged to replicate the fault of the Union.

                  Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • neph93N
                    neph93
                    見習いボス
                    Joined:

                    "Frigged"? You make learning fun Mega!

                    “Some of those that work forces
                    Are the same that burn crosses”

                    • Virginia Woolf
                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • neph93N
                      neph93
                      見習いボス
                      Joined:

                      Seriously though that stuff is brilliant. Thanks for sharing.

                      “Some of those that work forces
                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                      • Virginia Woolf
                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • GilesG
                        Giles
                        IHUK Crew
                        Joined:

                        We use the same Union Special "head" (a 43200G) in the UK as the heads we use in the workshops in Japan, but these are not cadcam machines, they are not designed to produce uniform results. There are dozens of variables that can be tweaked.  We have 2 * 43200G's in the UK, one is set up for 18-25oz but it is virtually impossible to hem 14oz denim on it, so the second machine is currently being set up (needs some bits made for it, so that all user inputs, result in same machine movements) to do the "light-stuff".

                        The roping is caused by the interaction between the feed foot and the folder.  It's actually got nothing to do with the sewing machine itself, I could put a folder in front of any chain-stitching machine and get roping….

                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • UnTuckedU
                          UnTucked
                          Joined:

                          @Giles:

                          The roping is caused by the interaction between the feed foot and the folder.  It's actually got nothing to do with the sewing machine itself, I could put a folder in front of any chain-stitching machine and get roping….

                          Ker-BOOM!

                          Big "denim wives tale" crushed

                          In search of:
                          IHV-04, med.
                          IHSH-185, large
                          IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • Megatron1505M
                            Megatron1505
                            見習いボス
                            Joined:

                            That's what I meant by frigging the Kansai, just couldn't remember which bit caused the roping.

                            Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • neph93N
                              neph93
                              見習いボス
                              Joined:

                              Stop writing that word. I just can't stop signing the Sex Pistols song.

                              “Some of those that work forces
                              Are the same that burn crosses”

                              • Virginia Woolf
                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • ChrisC
                                Chris
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:

                                Yeah, it's skewing from unequal movement by the feed dog on the bottom and the presser foot on top.  I can make a standard flatbed lockstitch machine put roping on a hem.  Not easily, but I'm largely incompetent…

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • manufc10M
                                  manufc10
                                  Iron Heart Deity
                                  Joined:

                                  And I thought I was a denim nerd. 😉

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • Megatron1505M
                                    Megatron1505
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined:

                                    I used to obsess over details, slubs, loom chatter, singed finishes, unbleached wefts etc….. These days I just wear jeans that I like and don't think too much about it  😎

                                    Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • FurattoHeddoF
                                      FurattoHeddo
                                      Joined:

                                      @Megatron1505:

                                      I just wear jeans that I like and don't think too much about it  😎

                                      Wise words to live by.

                                      "Don't ever be sorry"

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • SeulS
                                        Seul
                                        Joined:

                                        FRIGGING IN THE RIGGIN
                                        FRIGGING IN THE RIGGIN
                                        FRIGGING IN THE RIGGIN
                                        THERE WAS FUCK ALL ELSE TO DOOOO

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • steelworkerS
                                          steelworker
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined:

                                          @Seul:

                                          FRIGGING IN THE RIGGIN
                                          FRIGGING IN THE RIGGIN
                                          FRIGGING IN THE RIGGIN
                                          THERE WAS FUCK ALL ELSE TO DOOOO

                                          words of wisdom from the mad Belgian  😃

                                          Those are my principles, and if you don't like them…
                                          Well, I have others.

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • Megatron1505M
                                            Megatron1505
                                            見習いボス
                                            Joined:

                                            The Sex Pistols misappropriated my regional vernacular  😠

                                            Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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