Random questions to which you seek an answer
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Thanks Giles
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weightlifter question: if i can get one of my guys (or several) to order direct (not a retailer), would IHW be willing to take thigh dimensions from the customer to check if some tailoring can be done on site?
follow up: how much?details: literally between the crotch and knee
thanks,
Mike -
By IHW do you mean IHUK? The only tailoring we do is chainstitching. But we are more than happy to help to see if any of the styles we make will work. Currently the largest thighed jeans we do are the 1955S, but the new cut we are working on will have a larger thigh than most of our models….
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yes that's it, IHUK. Thanks! Minor alterations then. I'll pass this along
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I'm wanting to accelerate the fade of a pair of my IH's and value the opinions of this forum. aka wash /dry repeatedly. so… should i choose my xhs or s-b's?
I'd also thought about doing an ISO/WTB thread for a faded pr but not many other larger size peeps around.
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There is no route to accelerate fades, other than wear harder. You want them to be generally lighter all over with no contrast, then wash the shit out of them, but remember, indigo is oxidised onto the surface of the warp, you need to abrade that to make the warp lighter. Doing that means washing right side out, washing right side out is a recipe for white line disaster.
My honest opinion is, don't try.
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Thanks Sir. Will post a wtb then.
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I'm wanting to accelerate the fade of a pair of my IH's and value the opinions of this forum. aka wash /dry repeatedly. so… should i choose my xhs or s-b's?
I'd also thought about doing an ISO/WTB thread for a faded pr but not many other larger size peeps around.
I think the analogy has something to do with making bourbon. From time to time people experiment with ways to speed up the aging process,like using a smaller barrel,and the end result is never very good. It just takes a long time to make bourbon and age denim. The silver lining is it's worth it.
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I would never soak my denim in bourbon. Well. Recycled maybe.
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Noble denim has partnered with Bulleit bourbon and soaked/aged some of their jeans in bourbon barrels. Came out pretty cool,was impossible to get a pair. Their reasoning being that bourbon starts out white and changes color as it ages and denim turns white over time as it ages. There's a pretty cool video,about it, on YouTube.
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Yep. Its a cool vid. ~3+ years ago.
Wonder how thy look now. Will have to research and post pics if i find any.
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I sat down with Chnanon about 18 months ago to discuss what we could do for the then next PDC (which was supposed to be in November 2016). I know that our Thai customers love our heavy stuff, but we already do a 25oz jean for Pronto called the PIHXHS, so we couldn't do much with the "ordinary" 25oz denim, that would have been all that special. so I suggested a 25oz denim that utilised the same warp and weft as the normal 25oz but we would "cheese" (cone) dye the weft indigo:
Chnanon liked the idea, so I asked Haraki if it was possible. And there we are…
We have made a lot of unique denims for pronto - I can think of 4 off the top of my head. The minimum run we do for a special denim is enough for 400 pairs, Pronto blitz that, so it's easy to do...
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What is the relationship between starch and denim jeans? For fit predictability? For fading? For texture? For durability? Etc.
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Starch is a sizing agent and is not just used in the weaving of denim. There is a lot of friction involved in weaving, which is a problem as the more friction there is, the more likely it is that a warp yarn will break. This causes a fault in the fabric and also causes the loom to stop so it the break can be fixed, that is inefficient and causes the cost of production to rise. Sizing is introduced to decrease friction. The most common form of sizing agent is starch, in raw denim this is obviously not washed out.
From Wiki:
Textile warp sizing
Sizing the warp
Sizing of the warp yarn is essential to reduce breakage of the yarn and thus production stops on the weaving machine. On the weaving machine, the warp yarns are subjected to several types of actions i.e. cyclic strain, flexing, abrasion at various loom parts and inter yarn friction.With sizing, the strength — abrasion resistance — of the yarn will improve and the hairiness of yarn will decrease. The degree of improvement of strength depends on adhesion force between fiber and size, size penetration as well as encapsulation of yarn. Different types of water soluble polymers called textile sizing agents/chemicals such as modified starch, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), acrylates are used to protect the yarn. Also wax is added to reduce the abrasiveness of the warp yarns. The type of yarn material (e.g. cotton, polyester, linen), the thickness of the yarn, type of weaving machinery will determine the sizing recipe.
The sizing liquor is applied on warp yarn with a warp sizing machine. After the weaving process the fabric is desized (washed).
Sizing may be done by hand, or in a sizing machine.[12]
