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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Iron Heart Products - What do you think we should make?

    Future and Planned Products
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    • ?
      A Former User
      Joined:

      I've always believed that the best cut for all body types will be a 634 hybrid with an increasing taper below the knee as the sizes go up. What I am imagining is using already establish templates rather than creating something from scratch.  Start with the 634 template for sizes 28-31.  Use the 634 top block template for every size. Below the knee, use the 666 template for 31-33, the 555 for 33-36, and the 777 for 36-up.  Seems pretty straightforward without requiring new cuts/designs, lots of labor, and lots of samples.  Naturally, you will have to do some work with a pencil on the templates to get the perfect silhouette because the lines are much different with the 777 vs. the 634, but the basic idea is a 634 top block with a leg opening measurement matching the 666 (31-33), matching the 555 (33-36), and so on….

      I recommended this many years ago, in response to similar issues:

      Create a "Progressive" Cut: 
        1. Cuts like the 666, 555, and IHxB do not work for people with waists 31" and under (ME!):
        -The top block is too small, or the thigh measurement is too small, or the knee and leg opening are too small     
        2. Cuts like the 634 and DC4... do not work for larger folk:
        -The knee and/or leg opening is much too large to be practical/comfortable

      So, smaller people need a straight cut (except for some female customers), and larger people need a slight/moderate taper...

      Why not make a cut that is a straight 634 from sizes 28-31, and then using the top block from the 634 make sizes 32-35 similar to the 666 from the mid-thigh down, and finally make sizes 36-40 similar to the 555 from the mid-thigh down?

      Of course I am speaking with a 634 bias.
      « Last Edit: August 26, 2013, 04:36:09 AM by adam313 »

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • H
        Hematoma
        Raw and Unwashed
        Joined:

        A heavy wool work/mechanic jacket.  I could do without the leather cuff trim and wrist straps, but not deal breakers to me. Two way zipper would be ideal though.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • tailoredfamcamT
          tailoredfamcam
          Joined:

          @adam313:

          Why not make a cut that is a straight 634 from sizes 28-31, and then using the top block from the 634 make sizes 32-35 similar to the 666 from the mid-thigh down, and finally make sizes 36-40 similar to the 555 from the mid-thigh down?

          Of course I am speaking with a 634 bias.
          « Last Edit: August 26, 2013, 04:36:09 AM by adam313 »

          I'm a size 40 and I love the 634 top block but the hem, and even the knee, is a little too large for my preference. My next pair will be the Sii denim, but I'll probably go with the 666 cut and inquire about a larger thigh. I'd go with the 633SII, but I can't stand the tonal stitching.

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • David K.K. HansenD
            David K.K. Hansen
            Joined:

            @Hematoma:

            …Two way zipper would be ideal though.

            Why would this be?  I understand longer coats, a two-way zipper would allow for clearance when riding a bike, but a shirt/jacket that stops around the waist, would a two-way zipper be necessary?  Just asking out of curiosity.

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • AnesthetistA
              Anesthetist
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              I love two way zippers, especially when driving. It irritates me when my jacket gets bunched up. As far as shirts, sometimes I'll even undo the bottom button.

              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

              IG: bluehandsslim

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • ChrisC
                Chris
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined:

                @Anesthetist:

                I love two way zippers, especially when driving. It irritates me when my jacket gets bunched up.

                This.  I even had a hoodie modified to have a two way zipper for this reason.

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • David K.K. HansenD
                  David K.K. Hansen
                  Joined:

                  Get a beer gut.  Problem solved  😉

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • neph93N
                    neph93
                    見習いボス
                    Joined:

                    @BULLITT:

                    Get a beer gut.  Problem solved  😉

                    “Some of those that work forces
                    Are the same that burn crosses”

                    • Virginia Woolf
                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • pillowPANTSP
                      pillowPANTS
                      Joined:

                      I agree with the tappered 634 cut. Would be nice as the 633 seems to be popular. I was under the assumption that the 777 was going to be IH's 633?? Was excited about that. But it didnt turn out that way

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • H
                        Hematoma
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined:

                        @BULLITT:

                        @Hematoma:

                        …Two way zipper would be ideal though.

                        Why would this be?  I understand longer coats, a two-way zipper would allow for clearance when riding a bike, but a shirt/jacket that stops around the waist, would a two-way zipper be necessary?  Just asking out of curiosity.

                        I'm in good shape, but my torso is not a perfect V - shirts often bunch up around the waist, especially during colder months when I layer. Loosening up the bottom 2-3 inches makes it a lot more comfortable and prevents bunching.  As others said, bunching and such gets even worse when driving while zipped.

                        I hardly ever buy jackets that don't have 2 way zips anymore tbh.

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • Filthy2123ozjunkieF
                          Filthy2123ozjunkie
                          見習いボスー
                          Joined:

                          Hey Giles. I am seriously interested it a mid-weight flannel in the vein of the UHF. But maybe half the weight. Possibly not brushed either so it wouldn't be as warm. Maybe in a buffalo plaid.

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • manufc10M
                            manufc10
                            Iron Heart Deity
                            Joined:

                            I agree ^^^^

                            More 8-10oz ish flannels would be great.  I'd even be good with 6-8oz ish.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • Megatron1505M
                              Megatron1505
                              見習いボス
                              Joined:

                              Black and indigo waxed 21oz denim hooded jacket, elasticated cuffs and waist, sewn on pouch pockets (N-1 style), blanked lined. Large hood, like the current hoodies, two way heavy duty zipper and button overlap fastening.

                              Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • tvenutoT
                                tvenuto
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:

                                @Megatron1505:

                                Black and indigo waxed 21oz denim hooded jacket, elasticated cuffs and waist, sewn on pouch pockets (N-1 style), blanked lined. Large hood, like the current hoodies, two way heavy duty zipper and button overlap fastening.

                                Good god, man, call it "the denim house."

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • AetasA
                                  Aetas
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined:

                                  @Megatron1505:

                                  Black and indigo waxed 21oz denim hooded jacket, elasticated cuffs and waist, sewn on pouch pockets (N-1 style), blanked lined. Large hood, like the current hoodies, two way heavy duty zipper and button overlap fastening.

                                  … and the length of the Deck Half-Coat with blanket lined pockets or extra vertical hand warmer pockets.

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • Megatron1505M
                                    Megatron1505
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined:

                                    For that length, no elasticated waist. I was thinking length of a stadium jacket.

                                    Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • AetasA
                                      Aetas
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      Waxed 21oz denim jacket just sounds great Mega.

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • PeterP
                                        Peter
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined:

                                        Shacket in Cordura or nylon. Would buy.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • Irkku PaskaI
                                          Irkku Paska
                                          Joined:

                                          What about the Kojima t-shirt but with reverse color scheme? White shirt, blue crest on the chest?

                                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • DionD
                                            Dion
                                            Joined:

                                            Brilliant idea!

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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