Iron Heart Products - What do you think we should make?
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i get that the 633 is SE's cut, but among all the cuts IHUK offers there really should be a straight-tapered fit (especially as of recent most denim brands have one)… the only option is to taper the 634, but that is a fairly substantial added cost to an already expensive purchase (and at railcar an extra 6 weeks or whatever).
i don't mind getting the 633 from SE as i am in the US, but self edge doesn't offer some IH denim. i'm really hoping the yenim gets a 633 cut (if it comes out at all).... so far kiya hasn't said if he will carry vintage 18oz.
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633 sizing chart looks great, but it´s a long and expensive way to get one if you are not in the US…
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What I would recommend is check the sizing charts on the various 634 and 666 cuts. Different denim and different batches alter the fit slightly so you may find exactly what you need in Giles stock.
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I have given up on a straight tapered fit other than the 633 coming out. Tapering the 634 does create a lovely fit for me.
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I've always believed that the best cut for all body types will be a 634 hybrid with an increasing taper below the knee as the sizes go up. What I am imagining is using already establish templates rather than creating something from scratch. Start with the 634 template for sizes 28-31. Use the 634 top block template for every size. Below the knee, use the 666 template for 31-33, the 555 for 33-36, and the 777 for 36-up. Seems pretty straightforward without requiring new cuts/designs, lots of labor, and lots of samples. Naturally, you will have to do some work with a pencil on the templates to get the perfect silhouette because the lines are much different with the 777 vs. the 634, but the basic idea is a 634 top block with a leg opening measurement matching the 666 (31-33), matching the 555 (33-36), and so on….
I recommended this many years ago, in response to similar issues:
Create a "Progressive" Cut:
1. Cuts like the 666, 555, and IHxB do not work for people with waists 31" and under (ME!):
-The top block is too small, or the thigh measurement is too small, or the knee and leg opening are too small
2. Cuts like the 634 and DC4... do not work for larger folk:
-The knee and/or leg opening is much too large to be practical/comfortableSo, smaller people need a straight cut (except for some female customers), and larger people need a slight/moderate taper...
Why not make a cut that is a straight 634 from sizes 28-31, and then using the top block from the 634 make sizes 32-35 similar to the 666 from the mid-thigh down, and finally make sizes 36-40 similar to the 555 from the mid-thigh down?
Of course I am speaking with a 634 bias.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2013, 04:36:09 AM by adam313 » -
A heavy wool work/mechanic jacket. I could do without the leather cuff trim and wrist straps, but not deal breakers to me. Two way zipper would be ideal though.
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@adam313:
Why not make a cut that is a straight 634 from sizes 28-31, and then using the top block from the 634 make sizes 32-35 similar to the 666 from the mid-thigh down, and finally make sizes 36-40 similar to the 555 from the mid-thigh down?
Of course I am speaking with a 634 bias.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2013, 04:36:09 AM by adam313 »I'm a size 40 and I love the 634 top block but the hem, and even the knee, is a little too large for my preference. My next pair will be the Sii denim, but I'll probably go with the 666 cut and inquire about a larger thigh. I'd go with the 633SII, but I can't stand the tonal stitching.
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…Two way zipper would be ideal though.
Why would this be? I understand longer coats, a two-way zipper would allow for clearance when riding a bike, but a shirt/jacket that stops around the waist, would a two-way zipper be necessary? Just asking out of curiosity.
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I love two way zippers, especially when driving. It irritates me when my jacket gets bunched up. As far as shirts, sometimes I'll even undo the bottom button.
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I love two way zippers, especially when driving. It irritates me when my jacket gets bunched up.
This. I even had a hoodie modified to have a two way zipper for this reason.
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Get a beer gut. Problem solved
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I agree with the tappered 634 cut. Would be nice as the 633 seems to be popular. I was under the assumption that the 777 was going to be IH's 633?? Was excited about that. But it didnt turn out that way
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…Two way zipper would be ideal though.
Why would this be? I understand longer coats, a two-way zipper would allow for clearance when riding a bike, but a shirt/jacket that stops around the waist, would a two-way zipper be necessary? Just asking out of curiosity.
I'm in good shape, but my torso is not a perfect V - shirts often bunch up around the waist, especially during colder months when I layer. Loosening up the bottom 2-3 inches makes it a lot more comfortable and prevents bunching. As others said, bunching and such gets even worse when driving while zipped.
I hardly ever buy jackets that don't have 2 way zips anymore tbh.
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Hey Giles. I am seriously interested it a mid-weight flannel in the vein of the UHF. But maybe half the weight. Possibly not brushed either so it wouldn't be as warm. Maybe in a buffalo plaid.
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I agree ^^^^
More 8-10oz ish flannels would be great. I'd even be good with 6-8oz ish.
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Black and indigo waxed 21oz denim hooded jacket, elasticated cuffs and waist, sewn on pouch pockets (N-1 style), blanked lined. Large hood, like the current hoodies, two way heavy duty zipper and button overlap fastening.
