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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Cowboy boots

    Footwear
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    • 4c4
      4c
      Banned
      Joined:

      ^ Cool. I have been surprised more than a few times of things that are done as a special request, but are not advertised as being on the menu so to speak. 😉 😉

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      • ChrisC
        Chris
        Raw and Unwashed
        Joined:

        Digging back a couple of pages, I found my first pics of my Wheeler boots. As I said , pretty simple, but the craftsmanship is just magnificent.
        @Chris:

        Been meaning to post these for a while, but didn't dump the pics into my Photobucket account until today.  These are my newest acquisition- custom built by Dave Wheeler, one of the finest bootmakers in business today.
        (click on the pictures for larger version)

        Hand hammered steel shank arch support in the instep attached with two rows of wood pegs on each side

        Varigated stitching done on vintage single needle machine, one row at a time

        Lovely shrunken shoulder bullhide

        Fully lined with a reinforced heel slide

        Really, really happy with them…

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        • J
          jdl1279
          Joined:

          Me too, will be fun to see and discover as I start down the boot list.

          Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • J
            jdl1279
            Joined:

            I like those Chris, a nice example of a quality built traditional boot. Over build the sole (double, triple, maybe a Vibram option) slight change to the toe and your real close to what I'd like in a custom.

            Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • ChrisC
              Chris
              Raw and Unwashed
              Joined:

              The Travel Channel went to Nogales, AZ.  While they were there, they stopped in at Paul Bond Boot Co.  Short, but kinda interesting.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • R
                Red Devil
                Joined:

                I am interested in getting a pair of boots and thought this is a good reason to resurrect this thread, hope that's ok 🙂

                It doesn't seem like a good idea to go for a custom when looking to get the first pair, so I was wondering what would you recommend going for.

                I have found Heritage Boot in my research which seems like a good bet, but considering the serious knowledge displayed in this thread, I would really appreciate any advice 🙂

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                • J
                  jdl1279
                  Joined:

                  What type or style of boot are you looking for? If you're looking for best boot for the money without breaking the bank, I suggest Rios of Mercedes or Boulet. Olathe is decent too, but they are more built for an arena than the others

                  Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

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                  • R
                    Red Devil
                    Joined:

                    Thanks! I am not sure what to go for yet to be honest, but I don't ride horses, so I will mainly walk with these boots, that would mean the roper style would be best?
                    Although I must admit that I like the look of angled heels, but not sure how comfortable they are for walking.
                    As for the toe, I am wavering between a square toe or a rounded tapered one.
                    Does that make any sense?  🙂

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                    • J
                      jdl1279
                      Joined:

                      If you like square toes, I would lean Olathe or Boulet and get them with a Cutter toe. It's a blunt square that gives ample room and usually has a wider base 1 3/4 heel. I have a pair that I'll try to get a pic of

                      Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • ChrisC
                        Chris
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined:

                        OK, for a first pair of boots, here's what I recommend, starting from the ground up.  Get a boot with a "walking heel"; that's the term most companies use for a heel in the 1 3/8" - 1 5/8" range.  It's tall enough to look like a traditional cowboy boot, but short enough to be reasonably comfortable.  Toe shape is totally up to you.  On a properly sized boot, the toe doesn't factor into the fit.  The toe shape is added onto the end of the last, so the part occupied by your foot isn't affected.  In other words, a size 9 boot with a square toe will be shorter in overall length than a size 9 boot with a pointed toe, but your foot takes up the same amount of space in both.  That said, rounder toes are a bit more versatile.  If you walk a lot on concrete, or in wet conditions regularly, I'd recommend a sole saver, or topy.  It's basically a thin rubber sole glued onto the leather sole and gives you greater durability and traction without sacrificing the traditional look.

                        Leather options are virtually endless, but you can't go wrong with a simple cowhide.  It's tough, comes in a variety of colors and finishes and is relatively easy to care for.  Other good options are kangaroo and ostrich.  I wouldn't recommend anything reptilian, (snake, caiman, alligator, crocodile, etc.) as they're more delicate and harder to care for.  I don't really like goat or buffalo, either.  They have a tendency to scratch, which I don't like.

                        Tops are pretty variable, but there are a lot of options in the 12" height range.  I'd stick with that for the first pair, since it's the most common height, (within an inch or so either way) it's nicely traditional looking and most people find that height comfortable.

                        Specific brand recommendations will depend on your price range.  I've never seen Heritage Boots personally, but I'd guess they're a reasonable quality for what you're paying.  If you can, definitely try on a few pairs to get an idea of sizing, since cowboy boots seem even more erratic than other footwear.  It will also help you get an idea on appearance, since things that look good online don't always look good on your feet, and vice versa.

                        One last thing- don't buy ropers.  Just don't.  If you want cowboy boots, then get cowboy boots.  Ropers aren't.

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                        • mikebarhootM
                          mikebarhoot
                          Iron Heart Deity
                          Joined:

                          @chris, excellent writeup!

                          if i may add, i've had at least 4 pair in kangaroo and while soft and comfortable, they stretch. a bunch.  great leather tho just be mindful of the stretch…;)

                          a couple of notes brand specific.
                          -Tony Lama runs narrow
                          -Justin runs wide
                          -Nocona's run true
                          -Lucchese makes yer nipples hard
                          -absolutely agree with @chris on Ropers.

                          and because i'm a picture person

                          Lucchese Classics in Ostritch. Probably older than most who read this.

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                          • J
                            jdl1279
                            Joined:

                            Examples of a Cutter toe and heel

                            Mine

                            Width of heel at base

                            Olathe

                            Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • tmgT
                              tmg
                              Joined:

                              @mikebarhoot:

                              Lucchese Classics in Ostritch. Probably older than most who read this.

                              I'm a long time lurker on this thread, and those are pretty much exactly what I'd pick, albeit in a lighter tan colour [emoji3]

                              Have nearly pulled the trigger numerous times, but the cost of shipping to the UK, plus the inherent risk of not having tried them on before buying has stopped me - will need to persuade my boss that I'm overdue a trip to Houston!

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                              • R
                                Red Devil
                                Joined:

                                @Chris, thanks for writing this, it is very helpful!
                                I will stick to the leathers you mentioned, and will definitely get a sole saver as I live in the UK.
                                In terms of budget, I am ok with $500 - $600 if the quality warrants it, maybe more for exotic skin.

                                @mikebarhoot, your boots look very good! 🙂

                                @jdl1279, thanks for posting these, I like the style a lot!

                                One thing is now clear to me, I'd better go try some boots before pulling the trigger on anything online! I will check out if there's any shop carrying some of the brands you guys mentionned to get a feel for what I should get.

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                                • ChrisC
                                  Chris
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  Overseas, you're most likely to just find the major manufacturers- Justin, Nocona, Tony Lama and Lucchese.  Quality of the first three is basically interchangeable, as they're all owned by the same parent company and, I believe, made in the same factories.  Lucchese used to have a couple of lines to cover multiple price ranges, but I think they're now concentrating on the top end.  Quality should be higher.

                                  If you're not opposed to secondhand gear, eBay can be a good source.  You'll obviously take a hit on international shipping, though.  One last word of advice- lots of countries have restrictions on the trade of exotic hides.  If you do decide to go for a pair made out of anything other than cowhide, it would be smart to see what the UK is likely to confiscate.

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                                  • seawolfS
                                    seawolf
                                    Mod Squad
                                    Joined:

                                    @Chris:

                                    If you do decide to go for a pair made out of anything other than cowhide, it would be smart to see what the UK is likely to confiscate.

                                    Damn, that would be a kick in the nuts.

                                    “Good design is actually a lot harder to notice than poor design, in part because good designs fit our needs so well that the design is invisible” - Don Norman

                                    @zeebeeleather

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                                    • ChrisC
                                      Chris
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      Yeah, it's unlikely, but it's possible.  Even in the US, you can occasionally have problems.  California has some very restrictive laws, and I've heard of problems even for domestic shipping.  I know a boot maker that won't ship alligator boots to California, even though the hides come from Louisiana and gator is completely legal in the US.

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                                      • seawolfS
                                        seawolf
                                        Mod Squad
                                        Joined:

                                        Wow. I guess it makes sense, but that's crazy.

                                        “Good design is actually a lot harder to notice than poor design, in part because good designs fit our needs so well that the design is invisible” - Don Norman

                                        @zeebeeleather

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • R
                                          Red Devil
                                          Joined:

                                          Thanks Chris, I found these brand online but couldn't find a shop close enough to me to go try them. I might have a business trip to the US in the coming months, so the plan would be the get the boots while I am there if it works out.

                                          Second hand could be a good idea for me to find out what I like before I commit to something, especially that some boots would be hardly worn.

                                          Finally by exotic skin, I meant ostrich, at least for the first pair. Do you consider ostrich exotic? or is it too common for that?

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                                          • J
                                            jdl1279
                                            Joined:

                                            Ostrich is an exotic skin, but likely the least restricted. The skins you will likely run into issue with are some snake, lizard, gator, anything reptilian really, and elephant.

                                            Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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