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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Cowboy boots

    Footwear
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    • J
      jdl1279
      Joined:

      What I'm thinking is something over built like White's or Wesco, but with a truely over the top vamp and shaft. If going this route everything from toe box, to bug,to leather choice, to upper stitching would need to be exactly what I wanted. Never looked much into customs like so, though sure someone is capable

      Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • 4c4
        4c
        Banned
        Joined:

        Something like this?:
        http://www.wescoboots.com/wesco/info.asp
        http://www.whitesboots.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30303

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        • J
          jdl1279
          Joined:

          Yeah, if Wesco could tick all boxes I would certainly consider it. I've not seen upper stitching or toe boxes from them like what I have in mind. I have a list of builds to get into though, and Wesco makes up a couple of them. Priorities first (kids are expensive), but getting into one of them is high ranking

          Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • 4c4
            4c
            Banned
            Joined:

            ^ Cool. I have been surprised more than a few times of things that are done as a special request, but are not advertised as being on the menu so to speak. 😉 😉

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • ChrisC
              Chris
              Raw and Unwashed
              Joined:

              Digging back a couple of pages, I found my first pics of my Wheeler boots. As I said , pretty simple, but the craftsmanship is just magnificent.
              @Chris:

              Been meaning to post these for a while, but didn't dump the pics into my Photobucket account until today.  These are my newest acquisition- custom built by Dave Wheeler, one of the finest bootmakers in business today.
              (click on the pictures for larger version)

              Hand hammered steel shank arch support in the instep attached with two rows of wood pegs on each side

              Varigated stitching done on vintage single needle machine, one row at a time

              Lovely shrunken shoulder bullhide

              Fully lined with a reinforced heel slide

              Really, really happy with them…

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • J
                jdl1279
                Joined:

                Me too, will be fun to see and discover as I start down the boot list.

                Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • J
                  jdl1279
                  Joined:

                  I like those Chris, a nice example of a quality built traditional boot. Over build the sole (double, triple, maybe a Vibram option) slight change to the toe and your real close to what I'd like in a custom.

                  Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • ChrisC
                    Chris
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    The Travel Channel went to Nogales, AZ.  While they were there, they stopped in at Paul Bond Boot Co.  Short, but kinda interesting.

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • R
                      Red Devil
                      Joined:

                      I am interested in getting a pair of boots and thought this is a good reason to resurrect this thread, hope that's ok 🙂

                      It doesn't seem like a good idea to go for a custom when looking to get the first pair, so I was wondering what would you recommend going for.

                      I have found Heritage Boot in my research which seems like a good bet, but considering the serious knowledge displayed in this thread, I would really appreciate any advice 🙂

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • J
                        jdl1279
                        Joined:

                        What type or style of boot are you looking for? If you're looking for best boot for the money without breaking the bank, I suggest Rios of Mercedes or Boulet. Olathe is decent too, but they are more built for an arena than the others

                        Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • R
                          Red Devil
                          Joined:

                          Thanks! I am not sure what to go for yet to be honest, but I don't ride horses, so I will mainly walk with these boots, that would mean the roper style would be best?
                          Although I must admit that I like the look of angled heels, but not sure how comfortable they are for walking.
                          As for the toe, I am wavering between a square toe or a rounded tapered one.
                          Does that make any sense?  🙂

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • J
                            jdl1279
                            Joined:

                            If you like square toes, I would lean Olathe or Boulet and get them with a Cutter toe. It's a blunt square that gives ample room and usually has a wider base 1 3/4 heel. I have a pair that I'll try to get a pic of

                            Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • ChrisC
                              Chris
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              OK, for a first pair of boots, here's what I recommend, starting from the ground up.  Get a boot with a "walking heel"; that's the term most companies use for a heel in the 1 3/8" - 1 5/8" range.  It's tall enough to look like a traditional cowboy boot, but short enough to be reasonably comfortable.  Toe shape is totally up to you.  On a properly sized boot, the toe doesn't factor into the fit.  The toe shape is added onto the end of the last, so the part occupied by your foot isn't affected.  In other words, a size 9 boot with a square toe will be shorter in overall length than a size 9 boot with a pointed toe, but your foot takes up the same amount of space in both.  That said, rounder toes are a bit more versatile.  If you walk a lot on concrete, or in wet conditions regularly, I'd recommend a sole saver, or topy.  It's basically a thin rubber sole glued onto the leather sole and gives you greater durability and traction without sacrificing the traditional look.

                              Leather options are virtually endless, but you can't go wrong with a simple cowhide.  It's tough, comes in a variety of colors and finishes and is relatively easy to care for.  Other good options are kangaroo and ostrich.  I wouldn't recommend anything reptilian, (snake, caiman, alligator, crocodile, etc.) as they're more delicate and harder to care for.  I don't really like goat or buffalo, either.  They have a tendency to scratch, which I don't like.

                              Tops are pretty variable, but there are a lot of options in the 12" height range.  I'd stick with that for the first pair, since it's the most common height, (within an inch or so either way) it's nicely traditional looking and most people find that height comfortable.

                              Specific brand recommendations will depend on your price range.  I've never seen Heritage Boots personally, but I'd guess they're a reasonable quality for what you're paying.  If you can, definitely try on a few pairs to get an idea of sizing, since cowboy boots seem even more erratic than other footwear.  It will also help you get an idea on appearance, since things that look good online don't always look good on your feet, and vice versa.

                              One last thing- don't buy ropers.  Just don't.  If you want cowboy boots, then get cowboy boots.  Ropers aren't.

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • mikebarhootM
                                mikebarhoot
                                Iron Heart Deity
                                Joined:

                                @chris, excellent writeup!

                                if i may add, i've had at least 4 pair in kangaroo and while soft and comfortable, they stretch. a bunch.  great leather tho just be mindful of the stretch…;)

                                a couple of notes brand specific.
                                -Tony Lama runs narrow
                                -Justin runs wide
                                -Nocona's run true
                                -Lucchese makes yer nipples hard
                                -absolutely agree with @chris on Ropers.

                                and because i'm a picture person

                                Lucchese Classics in Ostritch. Probably older than most who read this.

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • J
                                  jdl1279
                                  Joined:

                                  Examples of a Cutter toe and heel

                                  Mine

                                  Width of heel at base

                                  Olathe

                                  Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • tmgT
                                    tmg
                                    Joined:

                                    @mikebarhoot:

                                    Lucchese Classics in Ostritch. Probably older than most who read this.

                                    I'm a long time lurker on this thread, and those are pretty much exactly what I'd pick, albeit in a lighter tan colour [emoji3]

                                    Have nearly pulled the trigger numerous times, but the cost of shipping to the UK, plus the inherent risk of not having tried them on before buying has stopped me - will need to persuade my boss that I'm overdue a trip to Houston!

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                                    • R
                                      Red Devil
                                      Joined:

                                      @Chris, thanks for writing this, it is very helpful!
                                      I will stick to the leathers you mentioned, and will definitely get a sole saver as I live in the UK.
                                      In terms of budget, I am ok with $500 - $600 if the quality warrants it, maybe more for exotic skin.

                                      @mikebarhoot, your boots look very good! 🙂

                                      @jdl1279, thanks for posting these, I like the style a lot!

                                      One thing is now clear to me, I'd better go try some boots before pulling the trigger on anything online! I will check out if there's any shop carrying some of the brands you guys mentionned to get a feel for what I should get.

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                                      • ChrisC
                                        Chris
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        Overseas, you're most likely to just find the major manufacturers- Justin, Nocona, Tony Lama and Lucchese.  Quality of the first three is basically interchangeable, as they're all owned by the same parent company and, I believe, made in the same factories.  Lucchese used to have a couple of lines to cover multiple price ranges, but I think they're now concentrating on the top end.  Quality should be higher.

                                        If you're not opposed to secondhand gear, eBay can be a good source.  You'll obviously take a hit on international shipping, though.  One last word of advice- lots of countries have restrictions on the trade of exotic hides.  If you do decide to go for a pair made out of anything other than cowhide, it would be smart to see what the UK is likely to confiscate.

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                                        • seawolfS
                                          seawolf
                                          Mod Squad
                                          Joined:

                                          @Chris:

                                          If you do decide to go for a pair made out of anything other than cowhide, it would be smart to see what the UK is likely to confiscate.

                                          Damn, that would be a kick in the nuts.

                                          “Good design is actually a lot harder to notice than poor design, in part because good designs fit our needs so well that the design is invisible” - Don Norman

                                          @zeebeeleather

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • ChrisC
                                            Chris
                                            Raw and Unwashed
                                            Joined:

                                            Yeah, it's unlikely, but it's possible.  Even in the US, you can occasionally have problems.  California has some very restrictive laws, and I've heard of problems even for domestic shipping.  I know a boot maker that won't ship alligator boots to California, even though the hides come from Louisiana and gator is completely legal in the US.

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