Cowboy boots
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@jdl1279, you might have to leave Michigan, but it'll definitely be possible to get anything you want. Dave Wheeler here in Houston does some astonishingly beautiful work and he's willing to try almost anything. The pair he made for me were fairly straightforward, but we talked about a second pair that would have been much, much more eye catching. Some of the El Paso based companies, like Rocketbuster, will do crazy custom work too. Only limit is your wallet…
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What I'm thinking is something over built like White's or Wesco, but with a truely over the top vamp and shaft. If going this route everything from toe box, to bug,to leather choice, to upper stitching would need to be exactly what I wanted. Never looked much into customs like so, though sure someone is capable
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Yeah, if Wesco could tick all boxes I would certainly consider it. I've not seen upper stitching or toe boxes from them like what I have in mind. I have a list of builds to get into though, and Wesco makes up a couple of them. Priorities first (kids are expensive), but getting into one of them is high ranking
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Digging back a couple of pages, I found my first pics of my Wheeler boots. As I said , pretty simple, but the craftsmanship is just magnificent.
@Chris:Been meaning to post these for a while, but didn't dump the pics into my Photobucket account until today. These are my newest acquisition- custom built by Dave Wheeler, one of the finest bootmakers in business today.
(click on the pictures for larger version)
Hand hammered steel shank arch support in the instep attached with two rows of wood pegs on each side
Varigated stitching done on vintage single needle machine, one row at a time
Lovely shrunken shoulder bullhide
Fully lined with a reinforced heel slide
Really, really happy with them…
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The Travel Channel went to Nogales, AZ. While they were there, they stopped in at Paul Bond Boot Co. Short, but kinda interesting.
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I am interested in getting a pair of boots and thought this is a good reason to resurrect this thread, hope that's ok
It doesn't seem like a good idea to go for a custom when looking to get the first pair, so I was wondering what would you recommend going for.
I have found Heritage Boot in my research which seems like a good bet, but considering the serious knowledge displayed in this thread, I would really appreciate any advice
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Thanks! I am not sure what to go for yet to be honest, but I don't ride horses, so I will mainly walk with these boots, that would mean the roper style would be best?
Although I must admit that I like the look of angled heels, but not sure how comfortable they are for walking.
As for the toe, I am wavering between a square toe or a rounded tapered one.
Does that make any sense? -
OK, for a first pair of boots, here's what I recommend, starting from the ground up. Get a boot with a "walking heel"; that's the term most companies use for a heel in the 1 3/8" - 1 5/8" range. It's tall enough to look like a traditional cowboy boot, but short enough to be reasonably comfortable. Toe shape is totally up to you. On a properly sized boot, the toe doesn't factor into the fit. The toe shape is added onto the end of the last, so the part occupied by your foot isn't affected. In other words, a size 9 boot with a square toe will be shorter in overall length than a size 9 boot with a pointed toe, but your foot takes up the same amount of space in both. That said, rounder toes are a bit more versatile. If you walk a lot on concrete, or in wet conditions regularly, I'd recommend a sole saver, or topy. It's basically a thin rubber sole glued onto the leather sole and gives you greater durability and traction without sacrificing the traditional look.
Leather options are virtually endless, but you can't go wrong with a simple cowhide. It's tough, comes in a variety of colors and finishes and is relatively easy to care for. Other good options are kangaroo and ostrich. I wouldn't recommend anything reptilian, (snake, caiman, alligator, crocodile, etc.) as they're more delicate and harder to care for. I don't really like goat or buffalo, either. They have a tendency to scratch, which I don't like.
Tops are pretty variable, but there are a lot of options in the 12" height range. I'd stick with that for the first pair, since it's the most common height, (within an inch or so either way) it's nicely traditional looking and most people find that height comfortable.
Specific brand recommendations will depend on your price range. I've never seen Heritage Boots personally, but I'd guess they're a reasonable quality for what you're paying. If you can, definitely try on a few pairs to get an idea of sizing, since cowboy boots seem even more erratic than other footwear. It will also help you get an idea on appearance, since things that look good online don't always look good on your feet, and vice versa.
One last thing- don't buy ropers. Just don't. If you want cowboy boots, then get cowboy boots. Ropers aren't.
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@chris, excellent writeup!
if i may add, i've had at least 4 pair in kangaroo and while soft and comfortable, they stretch. a bunch. great leather tho just be mindful of the stretch…;)
a couple of notes brand specific.
-Tony Lama runs narrow
-Justin runs wide
-Nocona's run true
-Lucchese makes yer nipples hard
-absolutely agree with @chris on Ropers.and because i'm a picture person
Lucchese Classics in Ostritch. Probably older than most who read this.
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Lucchese Classics in Ostritch. Probably older than most who read this.
I'm a long time lurker on this thread, and those are pretty much exactly what I'd pick, albeit in a lighter tan colour [emoji3]
Have nearly pulled the trigger numerous times, but the cost of shipping to the UK, plus the inherent risk of not having tried them on before buying has stopped me - will need to persuade my boss that I'm overdue a trip to Houston!
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@Chris, thanks for writing this, it is very helpful!
I will stick to the leathers you mentioned, and will definitely get a sole saver as I live in the UK.
In terms of budget, I am ok with $500 - $600 if the quality warrants it, maybe more for exotic skin.@mikebarhoot, your boots look very good!
@jdl1279, thanks for posting these, I like the style a lot!
One thing is now clear to me, I'd better go try some boots before pulling the trigger on anything online! I will check out if there's any shop carrying some of the brands you guys mentionned to get a feel for what I should get.
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Overseas, you're most likely to just find the major manufacturers- Justin, Nocona, Tony Lama and Lucchese. Quality of the first three is basically interchangeable, as they're all owned by the same parent company and, I believe, made in the same factories. Lucchese used to have a couple of lines to cover multiple price ranges, but I think they're now concentrating on the top end. Quality should be higher.
If you're not opposed to secondhand gear, eBay can be a good source. You'll obviously take a hit on international shipping, though. One last word of advice- lots of countries have restrictions on the trade of exotic hides. If you do decide to go for a pair made out of anything other than cowhide, it would be smart to see what the UK is likely to confiscate.
