Lawless Denim/LD&Co./LDandCo./RA-Denim/Reservoir1885/Freeriders/Warhorsedenim
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I'm fat now so i'm doing well otherwise
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Mr @Dirty Denim hi there. The reason you got a notification is that we now have a facility to place an @ in front of the user name and het feckin presto, you get told you have been mentioned. The notifications can be turned off.
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Oh no no need to turn off. I just havent received any previous notifications like the private messages I had in my box. The tag was the 1st notification I received in a long time other than the releases. I am glad I did I was just talking about you the other day reminiscing
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Nice to read you Sal, good to see you back here.
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Thanks a mil fella's Iv been keeping up with you @megatron1505 , I read a few of your Denim Hunter submissions & @Seul I get reminded of you every time I watch Pehhhpa Pig with my daughter. I'll stop in to some of the threads to catch up a bit & leave this thread alone for you vultures
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Welcome back @dirtydenim
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Nice to see you @Dirty Denim . Hope too see you back around a bit more. Can't go wrong with IH. Lawless, could be a bit hit or miss from the look of it :o
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Welcome back Sal!
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Whats up & thanks for the welcome party..you guys are always great.
Im gonna give my take on this whole Kickstarter Lawless thing
Yes I think the problem with some of his customers style choices prior to kickstarter were cheesy & primarily local walk ins who brought their own ideas. Some people including the brands we love have had occasional bad taste & I still bought from them. With Lawless I will make what I want made & it will cost me $69 - $125 for fully customized. You want something made with the same fabric you saw from another brand …Find it & its Done. You missed out on a shirt from another brand...DONE. You cant afford $1000 for a jacket because you are worried your wife will divorce you..No problem its done & at $125. If you are worried about construction & longevity..the price is worth the chance & is the the same reason why we all have bought cheaper alternatives for certain things. It might even turn out great & you will save some cash.
For the price Lawless is charging to make a fully custom piece I dont see why you wouldn't tell him what you want . If you dont like the name Lawless it doesn't have to be put on the garment but you could tell him to put your own choice. I mean I understand "kickstarter" brands have the label of being sellouts who didn't want to develop a story of their own by scratching and clawing & watering down the market with I am American so buy my heritage products but with that said if someone is going to come to me with a Jennifer Lopez body & face & she is actually interested in me, I am not gonna tell her but you aren't JLO so I cant hang out with you. Thats just silly and I think its silly for people to not want to get something that is being sold for $500 for $70 instead. Of course that doesn't mean there isn't value in buying from a brand who is priced higher than a kickstarter brand. I mean I love many brands including IH but I don't have the money to go all IH or all Mister Freedom but will occasionally buy 1 thing.
Since when is saving money not good.
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Unless these brands have a full set of vintage Union Special sewing machines and extraordinarily experienced and talented seamstresses, there is no way they can make jeans or jackets approaching Iron Heart quality. That is even if they could get hold of the denim, which they can't unless they steal it.
We have maxed out capacity on our heavyweight jeans line at the moment. We are looking to find another factory who can help out. If we can find someone we trust, we will let them start on the 17oz stuff and then move up the oz range over time. Haraki tells me, that even after a lot of practice on our "lighter" weight denims, a large proportion of the seamstresses will never make the grade we require on 21 and 25oz jeans and jackets…
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I have no issue with Kickstarters other than when they make wild claims about their products that simply cannot be true. Gustin and their "redefining menswear, starting with denim" and all that malarky about being the equal of the more expensive brands…...bollocks.
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If they weave their own bespoke denim on their own looms from locally grown organic pima cotton and sew them up in their own factory really nicely (they do have some Union specials) and use some excellent hardware, ect… There could be some promise here. These are the sorts of things they are doing/gearing up for. It could be really exciting to see lawless develop America’s first (contemporary) fully bespoke denim…
As mega pointed out earlier, weaving/sewing your own denim allows one to charge much less and still remain profitable unlike brands that buy denim and subcontract the work out to others. And as Mega and Giles alluded to when one owns a factory one has more control over the ethics of the hiring process.
We’ll see though… :-
Obviously they will need to prove themselves just like any other brand to gain our respect. -
This is interesting….
About the sewing machines they use…
The owner of Lawless, Roman, said: “Just to clear up one fact we use vintage machines. Union special and singers. I have gone through great length to track down these old machine and I currently have one of the largest collection of working vintage denim commercial sewing machines around.” -
How does weaving your own denim allow you to keep costs down? I think you have that backwards…
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How is the stitching? The pocket stitching (3rd photo) looks off. The fly stitching both pearl and vertical stitching aren't straight and look like the line fades. The button holes aren't aligned, 1 finishes at the vertical stitch, the other goes through it.
Looks like a train wreck to me, sorry.
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How is the stitching?
Everything is firmly attached and fully functional. Button holes are allied, the train is happily chugging along, and stitching is fine mate, thanks for asking…
This picture is of my well loved IH BB’s and I think they are perfect:
Clothing is generally made by humans…. Look close enough at anything handmade and you will be able to find small imperfections.
If it doesn’t harm the looks or function than it adds character… I think G once said that. -
It's a difference of opinion. Of course things made by humans will have minor mistakes. However, at this end of the price spectrum the details and consistency should be pretty spot on. Your MBB's certainly look interesting. Every stitch is in place, just a little off. The Lawless Jeans don't look like it's all there..
I imagine the button hole will have a functional impact, as it's going to be putting different stresses on the fly.
The 2nd shot, I'm not sure the impact of that, but there's less stitching there, so likely some impact also.
The pocket shot, it looks like it's not stitched down on a small run of stitches, I imagine that'll have the pocket bag doing odd things sooner.
These are all functional questions, not a thread/stitch count discussion.
