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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Lawless Denim/LD&Co./LDandCo./RA-Denim/Reservoir1885/Freeriders/Warhorsedenim

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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      Unless these brands have a full set of vintage Union Special sewing machines and extraordinarily experienced and talented seamstresses, there is no way they can make jeans or jackets approaching Iron Heart quality.  That is even if they could get hold of the denim, which they can't unless they steal it.

      We have maxed out capacity on our heavyweight jeans line at the moment.  We are looking to find another factory who can help out.  If we can find someone we trust, we will let them start on the 17oz stuff and then move up the oz range over time.  Haraki tells me, that even after a lot of practice on our "lighter" weight denims, a large proportion of the seamstresses will never make the grade we require on 21 and 25oz jeans and jackets…

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • Megatron1505M
        Megatron1505
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        I have no issue with Kickstarters other than when they make wild claims about their products that simply cannot be true. Gustin and their "redefining menswear, starting with denim" and all that malarky about being the equal of the more expensive brands…...bollocks.

        Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • 4c4
          4c
          Banned
          Joined:

          If they weave their own bespoke denim on their own looms from locally grown organic pima cotton and sew them up in their own factory really nicely (they do have some Union specials) and use some excellent hardware, ect… There could be some promise here. These are the sorts of things they are doing/gearing up for. It could be really exciting to see lawless develop America’s first (contemporary) fully bespoke denim…

          As mega pointed out earlier, weaving/sewing your own denim allows one to charge much less and still remain profitable unlike brands that buy denim and subcontract the work out to others. And as Mega and Giles alluded to when one owns a factory one has more control over the ethics of the hiring process.

          We’ll see though… :-
          Obviously they will need to prove themselves just like any other brand to gain our respect.

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          • 4c4
            4c
            Banned
            Joined:

            This is interesting….
            About the sewing machines they use…
            The owner of Lawless, Roman, said: “Just to clear up one fact we use vintage machines. Union special and singers. I have gone through great length to track down these old machine and I currently have one of the largest collection of working vintage denim commercial sewing machines around.”

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            • G
              grandmasterben
              Joined:

              How does weaving your own denim allow you to keep costs down?  I think you have that backwards…

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              • 4c4
                4c
                Banned
                Joined:

                Edit: Review removed. Be very careful with LD and LD re-branded companies.

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                • S
                  Snowy
                  Joined:

                  How is the stitching? The pocket stitching (3rd photo) looks off. The fly stitching both pearl and vertical stitching aren't straight and look like the line fades. The button holes aren't aligned, 1 finishes at the vertical stitch, the other goes through it.

                  Looks like a train wreck to me, sorry.

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                  • 4c4
                    4c
                    Banned
                    Joined:

                    @Snowy:

                    How is the stitching?

                    Everything is firmly attached and fully functional. Button holes are allied, the train is happily chugging along, and stitching is fine mate, thanks for asking…
                    This picture is of my well loved IH BB’s and I think they are perfect:

                    Clothing is generally made by humans…. Look close enough at anything handmade and you will be able to find small imperfections.
                    If it doesn’t harm the looks or function than it adds character… I think G once said that.

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                    • S
                      Snowy
                      Joined:

                      It's a difference of opinion. Of course things made by humans will have minor mistakes. However, at this end of the price spectrum the details and consistency should be pretty spot on. Your MBB's certainly look interesting. Every stitch is in place, just a little off. The Lawless Jeans don't look like it's all there..

                      I imagine the button hole will have a functional impact, as it's going to be putting different stresses on the fly.

                      The 2nd shot, I'm not sure the impact of that, but there's less stitching there, so likely some impact also.

                      The pocket shot, it looks like it's not stitched down on a small run of stitches, I imagine that'll have the pocket bag doing odd things sooner.

                      These are all functional questions, not a thread/stitch count discussion.

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                      • S
                        Snowy
                        Joined:

                        Roy's pearls on fly for comparison, they're 'all there'.

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                        • 4c4
                          4c
                          Banned
                          Joined:

                          Camera angle can sometimes be deceiving…

                          Fully functional, fully stitched, and not loose at all:

                          All here:

                          The buttons are alligned. The one double row stitch is slightly off, but it really doesn’t hinder the function…

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                          • S
                            Snowy
                            Joined:

                            @4c:

                            Camera angle can sometimes be deceiving…

                            ::). What a difference that makes, thank you. Pretty much invalidates everything I said perfectly 🙂

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                            • dylantbmayesD
                              dylantbmayes
                              Joined:

                              Is this not the same guy that created the horrific label, 'Guns and Money'?

                              Someone may have already mentioned this, but backtracking to read more about this brand would have just hurt my head.

                              @Snowy, some of your images are not displaying correctly.

                              INSTAGRAM: @DYLANTBMAYES | FACEBOOK.COM/DYLANTBMAYES

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                              • S
                                Snowy
                                Joined:

                                @dylantbmayes they're online and working here. If you have IPv6/IPv4 you may have weird issues as the server works correctly using IPv6 first. Feel free to PM.

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                                • GilesG
                                  Giles
                                  IHUK Crew
                                  Joined:

                                  Fine for me and I'm only 300 yards away from @dylantbmayes

                                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                  • S
                                    Snowy
                                    Joined:

                                    Thanks @Giles. @dylantbmayes have you turned it off and on again? ::)

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                                    • dylantbmayesD
                                      dylantbmayes
                                      Joined:

                                      @Snowy:

                                      Thanks @Giles. @dylantbmayes have you turned it off and on again? ::)

                                      I forced an unexpected reboot 😛

                                      INSTAGRAM: @DYLANTBMAYES | FACEBOOK.COM/DYLANTBMAYES

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                                      • Megatron1505M
                                        Megatron1505
                                        見習いボス
                                        Joined:

                                        It's not the Guns n Money guy, he has a new brand called Tezomeya (or something similar), his new stuff looks pretty nice actually but it's ruined by some god awful pocket stitching.

                                        Lawless jeans look fine to me, but their concept, blurb and lack of any originality or fun aspect makes them simply a little dull to me. The whole thing lacks character and personality besides being 'Murican.

                                        Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • 4c4
                                          4c
                                          Banned
                                          Joined:

                                          Lawless just launched their new site and are doing a 50% off discount for the next 72 hrs. if you use the code: “1 year”
                                          Take a look…
                                          http://www.ra-denim.com/

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • winterlandW
                                            winterland
                                            Joined:

                                            @4c:

                                            Lawless just launched their new site and are doing a 50% off discount for the next 72 hrs. if you use the code: “1 year”
                                            Take a look…
                                            http://www.ra-denim.com/

                                            Just placed and order for Kuroki Mills Indigo 18.5oz jeans and an indigo work shirt. Can't beat the price. wow.

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