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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Live Reveal - Thursday 12th of June at 1700BST

    IHSW-34 -12oz Heavyweight Loopwheel Fleece Lined Sweater - Grey Marl or Mint Gre

    Cut & Sewn
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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      And, proper the knitted tube that loopwheel machines make, max out at a rather small Japanese circumference, so to make larger garments, the tubes have to be cut and sewn…

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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      • D
        Denim Reynholm
        Joined:
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        • ChrisC
          Chris
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          Personally, I've never really had a problem with side seams and don't understand the hatred they seem to engender.

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          • neph93N
            neph93
            見習いボス
            Joined:

            @Chris:

            Personally, I've never really had a problem with side seams and don't understand the hatred they seem to engender.

            Yeah, I have the iht-1610 both with and without and I can’t remember putting the ones without on an and thinking “oh damn the difference is amazing”. In fact I can’t remember ever caring. I sometimes remember to appreciate the look of it, but I suspect it’s all an affectation.

            “Some of those that work forces
            Are the same that burn crosses”

            • Virginia Woolf
            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • ChrisC
              Chris
              Raw and Unwashed
              Joined:

              Generally speaking I don't even notice one way or the other.  In fact, I had to look at the shirt I'm wearing (Jungmaven Baja pocket tee) to see whether it had seams or not.

              It does, just for the record…

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • GilesG
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined:

                When we first made t-shirts, I asked H whether they were loopwheel.  His answer "I have no idea, is it important?"

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                • AdamJA
                  AdamJ
                  IHUK Crew
                  Joined:

                  STOCKISTS

                  Iron Heart UK

                  AUSTRALIA
                  Godspeed Store

                  RUSSIA
                  Zefear

                  The devil is in the detail..

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                  • AdamJA
                    AdamJ
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined:

                    Sam wears Medium

                    The devil is in the detail..

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                    • AdamJA
                      AdamJ
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined:

                      NOW LIVE

                      The devil is in the detail..

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                      • SamS
                        Sam
                        Joined:

                        In the wild

                        Insta - @braveinthefaceoflasers

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                        • Stuart.TS
                          Stuart.T
                          Raw and Unwashed
                          Joined:

                          So to reignite the debate, these are loopwheel knit, then side seems cut and sewn into them?

                          I have loopwheel and non-loopwheel shirts and sweats. Full loopwheel are hands down my favoured option.

                          The very fact that a garment has additional seems and sewing means that there ar more potential faultlines. Loopwheel definitely hold their shape better over multiple washes.

                          As for larger sizes and loopwheel in Japan not able to knit larger sizes, I own loopwheel sweaters by freewheelers and buzz ricksons, and they are larger sizes, without side seems, made in Japan.

                          If a brand was not concerned with both quality AND aesthetic, then why have selvedge seems and packets on garments that are deliberately visible in the construction?

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                          • neph93N
                            neph93
                            見習いボス
                            Joined:

                            @Stuart.T:

                            If a brand was not concerned with both quality AND aesthetic, then why have selvedge seems and packets on garments that are deliberately visible in the construction?

                            @Giles:

                            When we first made t-shirts, I asked H whether they were loopwheel.  His answer "I have no idea, is it important?"

                            H-san hasn’t been overly concerned with selvedge earlier. The important thing was the quality and function of them material. I believe he has said that if he could get the same weaves from a wide loom then he’d be fine with that. I think he realises that his international market might not be, the 301 saga being a case in point.

                            He clearly isn’t fussed by side seams either. There is no doubt about his commitment to quality and aesthetics. He obviously doesn’t consider having side seams to be compromising either. It’s good enough for me.

                            I’ll add that I have had the grey IHSW-34 and own a RMC sweatshirt too. The RMC has no side seams. The ‘34 probably has. I still don’t care one way or another.

                            “Some of those that work forces
                            Are the same that burn crosses”

                            • Virginia Woolf
                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • ChrisC
                              Chris
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              Tube construction is overrated. I've never had a shirt rip apart at a side seam and I've never noticed any difference in durability or comfort.  If the fabric and construction are good, then whether a shirt has side seams seems irrelevant for any purpose other than affectation. Much like chainstitch runoff.

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                              • ChapC
                                Chap
                                見習いボス
                                Joined:

                                Some aspects regarding loopwheel manufacturing https://merzbschwanen.com/manufacturing-good-originals

                                God has blessed you richly, so get down on your knees and thank him. Don’t forget the less fortunate or God will personally kick your ass. I’d love to do it for him, but I can’t be everywhere. Willie Nelson

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                                • gaseousclayG
                                  gaseousclay
                                  Joined:

                                  @Chris:

                                  Personally, I've never really had a problem with side seams and don't understand the hatred they seem to engender.

                                  Me neither. I have several Reigning Champ sweatshirts and they all have ribbed side seams. Never had any issues. As it may have already been pointed out, it’s probably more to do with aesthetics, much like the chain stitch runoff you mentioned or selvedge line

                                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                  WTB:
                                  IHSH-129 size L (blue)
                                  IHSH-19

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                                  • Stuart.TS
                                    Stuart.T
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined:

                                    Chainstich run off is completely an asthetical preference. Chainstitching in itself is not.

                                    I no longer buy tshirts that have side seems. Even when I buy band tshirts, unless they are tube construction I do not buy them (yes, I do understand that is not the same as loopwheel construction. The process and tensions are completely different).

                                    Side seems, even on more expensive brands, lose shape more quickly In my experience. This is the sort of debate I have with fast fashion victims, not with people who buy $300 shirts.

                                    Personally, I am just a customer of Iron Heart, and never feel the need to be a sycophant. I am very much a fan of the brand. Its quality and service are second to none, but if there are elements that I don't understand, or disagree with, I'm comfortable doing that.

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                                    • neph93N
                                      neph93
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      @Stuart.T:

                                      Personally, I am just a customer of Iron Heart, and never feel the need to be a sycophant.

                                      I do hope I’m reading this wrong and you’re not  implying that anyone here is a sycophant just because they don’t hold the lack of side seams in the same regard as you do. I would consider that exceptionally short sighted, not to mention rude.

                                      “Some of those that work forces
                                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                                      • Virginia Woolf
                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • Stuart.TS
                                        Stuart.T
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        I am not implying that people with differing opinions in this thread are sycophants. I should wait for a counterbalance of views.

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                                        • neph93N
                                          neph93
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined:

                                          Thank you for the clarification @Stuart.T , I appreciate it.

                                          “Some of those that work forces
                                          Are the same that burn crosses”

                                          • Virginia Woolf
                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • DionD
                                            Dion
                                            Joined:

                                            I personally prefer loopwheeled stuff without any side seams as it adds to the aesthetics of any item and also to the comfort. Not many do loopwheeled stuff but everyone does side seams, so I'm also not a fan of loopwheeled items that do have side seams like everything else despite being made in the difficult manufacturing process. The fabric might be nice but deprived of one of its biggest benefits: the tubular construction.
                                            I also tried this jumper in grey and although the fit was pretty decent and the fabric nice I wasn't feeling it overall (especially the seams - not only on the sides). It was an XXL and at that time I had another heavy loopwheeled sweater from SDA in XL to compare against. The XL had bigger measurements (chest, length etc.), a softer yet heavier feel and no side seams. EDIT: There was the IHSW-06 once which was made of the heavy Wakayama loopwheeled fleece and it went up to XL with no side seams.
                                            Another point is that there have been already quite heavy 5,5 oz Triple Works T-Shirts that went up to XXL and had no side seams in all sizes (e.g. TWT-1401, TWT-1402 & TWT-1403). Would've loved to have the IHT-1610 without any side seams in every size (although I'm wearing an L that has no side seams in them).

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