Random questions to which you seek an answer
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@goosehd I need to read up on this topic, I remember that after the shuttle loom broke the rest was made on a more modern type of loom. What a story!
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The easy way to measure this is to measure the thickness of the fabric. The weight measurement is already an aerial/surface density being a ounces per square yard. Then just convert that aerial to an actual density using the third value. I can take some measurements and put together a list later after work today. Now I'm curious.
But really, just by feel, the mad black does feel pretty dense. Though I'm pretty consistently amazed with how thin UHR feels given it should be 23oz. Putting on XHS after wearing UHR for a month feels like putting on 21 after wearing 14 almost.
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@pechelman yeah man I’d agree about UHR. For some reason it seems to get a reputation for being a punishing denim, but in my experience it’s definitely on the comfier side of other heavy denims I’ve had, various iterations of XHS included. UHR’s a huge fave of mine, both in terms of feel and fading.
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@Karol thanks for posting that link, those photos are crazy. Going to read more of that thread at lunch today.
Love learning more about the denim and brand with posts like this, thanks for sharing all of the knowledge everyone -
@pechelman I would appreciate it so much!! Your proposed measurement method might be just what we need.
I was recently thinking about this topic, as I initially came to IH for heavy fabrics that are super wearable (and boy oh boy IH does deliver) but after I got IHSH-362-BLK - 16oz Non-Selvedge Denim CPO Shirt - Superblack (Fades to Grey) I realized I like ''cardboard - like'' denim as well
I want to understand what makes it this way and what other fabrics like that I should have on the radar.
@goosehd pointing to loombreakers suggests it has to be connected with the weaving tension. I guess the 16oz (IHSH-362-BLK) was non-selvedge to facilitate that increased tension. -
In the big scheme of things, the answer really doesn't matter anyway (other than for personal interest). Buy and wear what you like as there will always be a new denim to try and ones we missed out on. Enjoy and cherish what you have...
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I’m curious about “Life is Miracle” by Iron Heart.
I’ve seen this on a few of the 7.5oz tees now…is this simply a design idea slogan…or is it something else? An Iron Heart spin off of some sort, maybe?
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@Mizmazzle The IH guys will know the best, but I remember this being connected with tsunami or earthquake affecting Japan. I guess the the money was going to the victims. I don't remember where I saw the details but I will take a look.
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@Mizmazzle Actually its in the description - https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum//post/828653
11th March 2011 is a date etched into Japanese memories, with the country experiencing the strongest earthquake in its recorded history. The tsunami that followed devastated the northeastern coastline, claiming over 20,000 lives and leaving nearly half a million homeless. In addition to this tragic loss of life, the destruction led to the meltdown of the Fukushima nuclear power plant, forcing thousands more people to evacuate their homes and businesses. Crippling the infrastructure of the entire country, the region of Tōhoku is still recovering from the event even today, more than a decade on.
One story that followed in the aftermath of the tsunami was that of a heavily damaged Harley-Davidson motorcycle, washed up in a shipping container on the shoreline of Canada. Thanks to the Japanese markings and intact VIN number, Harley tracked down the bike’s original owner, Ikuo Yokoyama. Ikuo was amongst the thousands of Japanese survivors, and whilst he too had lost his home and possessions, he humbly declined the offer of a brand new replacement. Instead, he respectfully requested that the bike be placed in the Harley-Davidson museum, as a memorial to the victims of the tsunami.
Ikuo Yokoyama is now the founder of Life Is A Miracle, a charity set up to support the ongoing efforts to rebuild in the region. A cause close to the heart of Iron Heart owner, Haraki-san, we’re proud to be raising awareness throughout the world with this ongoing series of custom designs and prints.
Favorite:
IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG -
@Karol said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:
what is the most dense IH denim?
What kind of density are you interested in, because it's not clear from the comments that follow?
You could be looking at how tightly the yarns are twisted, how heavy those yarns were in the first place, how many knots there are in a square metre/yard, etc.
You've got me thinking you should start a channel similar to Rose Anvil, where instead of cutting up boots and shoes, you're taking puncture devices to jeans and other garments. These jeans take 3lb of force to puncture (or whatever), they stand up to this much abrasion from 300 grit sandpaper, etc, etc.
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@EdH I can narrow it down to common nomenclature. In the meantime I found in IH Denim Glossary a definition.
''Density
Density refers to the difference between a looser or tighter weave of denim fabric and the number of yarns that are used to make up that weave. The higher the density, the sturdier the denim.
At Iron Heart we offer a range of densities in our denim. The now defunct UHR is famously dense after soaking, whereas the flagship 21oz denim offers a much looser weave despite the heaviness of the fabric, thus allowing for the jeans to be worn comfortably in warmer temperatures.''
So in my question I'm after the most dense denim IH has to offer.
I really like rose anvil stuff, and I have not seen anything like like that for clothing. Well maybe Carl Murawski
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@Karol Ah... my guess would be the 19oz LHT or the UHR after soaking then. Neither of which I have experience with, just going off the descriptions.
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I would love to make such content as rose anvil, but for now I don't think that my knowledge of the subject matter is even close to give it justice.
Even with Weston's videos I sometimes think that he made few uneducated assumptions about the materials and why something is being used instead of something else. On the other hand when those boots are cut in half we can all see it and decide ourselves what is important for us.
I wish there was more videos made by the people from the industry that truly know those topics inside out. That is why I love Full Grain Podcast - https://www.youtube.com/@fullgrainpodcast by '' Leather tannery veterans Nick Horween (5th generation, Horween Leather) and Phil Kalas (Founder, Ashland Leather) cover manufacturing, leather, boots, denim, everyday carry and the talented people who are creating the world's finest products.''. They really go deep into the heart of the thing.
The last two episodes were really awesome:
EP48: Leather Tanning 101 -
EP50: Horween Leather Tanner Explains Leather Finishing - -
A good friend of mine (now passed) and I were having a discussion one day about playing guitar and I expressed my desire to play. His question to me was “What’s stopping you?” That has stuck with me for every I wish…
I miss him and his lessons. A simple question that changed how I view many things.
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@goosehd Such a great point man. And then one has to only define to what level they want to aspire and what will it take.
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@Karol If it’s something you are truly interested in, find the information yourself and become the subject matter expert.
Discussions concerning denim are one thing, discovering the information on your own, doing it, and people coming to you is another.
Look at what @swiss-jeansfreak has done with his love of denim.
