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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Random questions to which you seek an answer

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    • neph93N
      neph93
      見習いボス
      Joined:

      @Giles:

      Because it costs a fortune to make and stock loads of different inseam lengths.  So we make for what we think is a sensible longest leg that we will sell and give people the opportunity of hemming to their exact desired inseam length if they wish…

      http://www.ironheart.co.uk/bottoms/chain-stitching.html

      It's relatively easy to hem to length, it is impossible to add to length....

      While the economies of scale involved in making all your tagged waist jeans in a whole range of lengths (28"-37"?) is obviously the major issue for relatively small producers of jeans I think there's maybe an element of tradition as well @Giles ?

      When jeans were being made and sold as workwear at the end of the 19 century and into the 20th they had long inseams for the exact same reasons as they do today. Also until the 30's there was no mass market sanforization so shrink to fit length was the norm. This is how cuffing and stacking started, not as a fashion statement but as a necessity. You needed to do something with that excess denim before washing, and even after washing you probably wouldn't hem it because it's workwear. So I think that aspect is important for some brands and customers as well as the economies of scale issue.

      “Some of those that work forces
      Are the same that burn crosses”

      • Virginia Woolf
      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • R
        richardjohn22
        Joined:

        @Giles:

        Because it costs a fortune to make and stock loads of different inseam lengths.  So we make for what we think is a sensible longest leg that we will sell and give people the opportunity of hemming to their exact desired inseam length if they wish…

        http://www.ironheart.co.uk/bottoms/chain-stitching.html

        It's relatively easy to hem to length, it is impossible to add to length....

        Thanks for the fast reply, @Giles!  Makes sense economically, as even if only 5% have such long legs, it means they could not buy/wear a pair at all if the inseam was any shorter.  Well, assuming the half foot of trailing fabric doesn't put off people from purchasing… didn't stop me did it 😉  If I'm 6'1 and have 6 inches of spare fabric (uncuffed) then I only worry some shorter people have a lot more trailing fabric.  But I guess that's a judgement call made and a number of cuts have a shorter inseam too.

        My only qualm with hemming is it makes the leg opening even wider, which might mean you can only stack when wearing boots.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • R
          richardjohn22
          Joined:

          Possibly scrap my hemming argument, even on tapered jeans like the 1955S if I hemmed off a full 6 inches (and I wouldn't) the hem would only rise from 8 3/4 to 9 1/4…

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            But as @Madame Buttonfly oft says, that 1/2 inch is very important to some people…..

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • R
              richardjohn22
              Joined:

              Who can argue with that 😉

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Madame ButtonflyM
                Madame Buttonfly
                IHUK Crew
                Joined:

                😉

                AKA Mrs G

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • neph93N
                  neph93
                  見習いボス
                  Joined:

                  One of the many things I love about this forum is the speed at which discussions detiorate into willy jokes! [emoji533][emoji168][emoji266]

                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  “Some of those that work forces
                  Are the same that burn crosses”

                  • Virginia Woolf
                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • GilesG
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined:

                    Did it?

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • neph93N
                      neph93
                      見習いボス
                      Joined:

                      @Giles:

                      Did it?

                      Possibly only in my mind 😃

                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                      “Some of those that work forces
                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                      • Virginia Woolf
                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • B
                        beautiful_FrEaK
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined:

                        The only Japanese brand which comes to my mind offering multiple inseams is Resolute.
                        They offer inseams from 28" tp 36" on nearly all waist sizes (see here http://resolute.jp/710.html).

                        But then they only have 4 models at all so they can't compete with IH on the variety of cuts/models

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • R
                          richardjohn22
                          Joined:

                          @beautiful_FrEaK:

                          The only Japanese brand which comes to my mind offering multiple inseams is Resolute.
                          They offer inseams from 28" tp 36" on nearly all waist sizes (see here http://resolute.jp/710.html).

                          But then they only have 4 models at all so they can't compete with IH on the variety of cuts/models

                          Wow, 8 lengths. That is going some. The long legged aren't well served, though, their longest comes in 1.5 inches below peak IH length.

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • B
                            beautiful_FrEaK
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined:

                            And it is all unsanforized denim so it will shrink. But Resolute's main market is Japan and the guys&gals over there are shorter. The IH jeans for Japan are also shorter. Thanks to Giles you can enjoy those long inseams here on the Western market.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • R
                              richardjohn22
                              Joined:

                              I'm in Thailand but we have the Western inseam lengths, and no obvious place to get the hem chainstitched here that I know.  A million tailors, but usually cheap and sloppy from my experience.

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                Pronto have loads of 43200G's.  I borrowed one a few years ago….

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • R
                                  richardjohn22
                                  Joined:

                                  @Giles:

                                  Pronto have loads of 43200G's.  I borrowed one a few years ago….

                                  I sent them an email earlier today actually, I'm hoping they get back to me shortly. The staff member that served me said they couldn't chainstitch.  Maybe the word or my pronunciation eluded him, I don't know the Thai equivalent.  Or maybe that one store couldn't…

                                  And thanks for the heads up, Giles. A happy coincidence a couple of hours after writing them a message 😃

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • neph93N
                                    neph93
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined:

                                    @Giles:

                                    ….

                                    What is this lovely thing that popped up on my IG feed and when can I buy it?

                                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                    “Some of those that work forces
                                    Are the same that burn crosses”

                                    • Virginia Woolf
                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • AppfaffA
                                      Appfaff
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      according to Giles in random announcements it is slightly lighter than the standard 7.5oz loopwheeled materials, and will be available in S-L, and Xl & XXL with side seems.  The collar looked constructed differently than what is on my IHPT-01 and IHFT-2012, which is what I am most excited for and I love some melange (is that the right term???) style heathered tees.

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • neph93N
                                        neph93
                                        見習いボス
                                        Joined:

                                        Missed that post, but these look lovely. Melange is the word.

                                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                        “Some of those that work forces
                                        Are the same that burn crosses”

                                        • Virginia Woolf
                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • mikebarhootM
                                          mikebarhoot
                                          Iron Heart Deity
                                          Joined:

                                          possibility of a custom sized shirt? biggerer.

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • AppfaffA
                                            Appfaff
                                            Raw and Unwashed
                                            Joined:

                                            I doubt the side seems are meant for alteration, but simply to keep with the proportions in sync with the smaller sizes, that way a 24" chest on an XXL lopped wheeled tee doesn't have a 48" opening at the bottom. Loopedwheeled stuff is heard to do, I'm guessing that's why you see more loopwheeled sweat shirts than Tshirts - on sweats you can put a ribbed hem along the bottom and pull in the fabric, where as a tshirt is much more difficult.

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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