IH-526J-22OD - 22oz Selvedge Denim Type III Jacket - Indigo Overdyed Black
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It's my first IH OD and initially I wondered if the denim lacked character a bit compared with my 21oz indigo jeans - it's smoother and more uniform texturally and colour-wise.
Compared to some other brands, a lot of Haraki-san's denim has a smooth, even hand and texture. He likes it like that. The indigo 22oz has a very similar hand ond twill pattern to 21oz, and overdying accentuates these features in both denims. This is a result of shrinkage and the tightening of the weave, the cloth being stuffed with an extra dose of dye, and the heat take what little irregularity and fuzz there was out of the original fabric. It also lends a matte quality to the colour and garment.
There are other changes to the fabric that I find quite beautiful. The smell, the dry feel, the inky colour, as well as the softness and drape you mention. Despite the somewhat toned down effect that the overdying process creates, there is a wonderful depth of colour to the denim. It is subtle but there is a shift in colour in different lights, sometimes a sheen comes through, other times there is the hint of indigo or silvery grey.
The real magic here is that as with almost all of Haraki-san's denim the beauty starts developing with wear. OD's evolution is really dynamic and the 3D effect that occurs as the fabric starts bunching, creasing and losing different layers of colour is just superb. It just keeps on going, year after year too. This is my second OD type III, and while the first at five years is still in regular use and fine form, buying another one wasn't even a tricky deceision to make.
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Thanks @neph93, that's interesting info re. the OD process. The stuff is certainly dense, but it feels almost engineered to mold to fit. I'm new to the game, but I'm beginning to realise that part of the fascination with denim for those who fall for it is the sheer variety and the craftsmanship and individual approaches that lie behind that. Must have been interesting to pick up a new one and go right back to an OD denim in its virgin form. Hence the addiction I suppose. Cheers again!
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Cheers @Lowlander @Oroccoco I’ll throw up some side by side comparisons of the old and new when I get some decent light (which may not be until March [emoji1]).
It is fun to see how the different denims turn out after the overdye. The brown weft of the 22oz definitely makes for a darker starting point that the 21oz, while the 19oz LHT comes up different again because of the rougher, more textured weave of the denim. They all fade differently too.
It really is nerdy stuff [emoji23]
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@lowlander
Great fit !! Lately , I am wearing indoors . I can’t wait for cold weatherSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Looks like a perfect fit, and great outfit overall! Nice autumn colors in the garden too by the way.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A520F met Tapatalk
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Great to see you @goosehd - garden is looking beautiful (as are you, of course)
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@Madame Buttonfly Thank you..You brought a smile to my face.
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I bought this for summer wear, but I hate not being able to wear it. The muffler and an N-1 over it means it works as an in between layer even in -7C.
I' really tore up between this jacket ( I know it's not available now, but there is a version over at SE and not sure about the measurements ) and the Left Hand 19oz one. Both seem heavy and awesome w/the IH-526Lod running a bit small perhaps.
I bought the IH-526J-142ib in a XXL and it's kinda perfect, maybe a little long in the sleeve and length but overall love the fit. I also bought the Storm rider in XXL by the way…like the fit for sure
My questions are: Should I wait for this 22oz jacket to be rereleased ya think? or, is the IH-526Lod just as good if not better?
I'm also really tempted to pull the trigger on the Self Edge version but I think the 42 size would be better but of course it's sold out within 24 hrs, so either I go bigger, longer in the XXL or even try the Lg which might be too tight.
Any advice you could share would be fantastic and greatly appreciated !! Thank you very much !!
Patrick -
@Shanman11 The SE 22oz is a modified type III like your 14oz jacket and the IH-526L-19-OD. This jacket, the IH-526j-22OD, is without handwarmers and a little shorter. If you found the 14oz long then you might consider waiting for this.
I own this one and have experience with the 19oz. I went with the 22oz mostly because the measurements work better for me. Both are brilliant fabrics so you can’t go wrong, but I especially like the 22oz heft, and the flat, smooth, matte hand on the IH-526j-22OD.
