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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

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IH-526J-22OD - 22oz Selvedge Denim Type III Jacket - Indigo Overdyed Black

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  • O
    Oroccoco
    The Unwoven
    Joined: 3 Aug 2020

    I thought I'd dithered and missed this one (for now), but a stray XL popped up on the website a couple of weeks ago so I ignored the groans of my wallet and grabbed it. It's my first IH OD and initially I wondered if the denim lacked character a bit compared with my 21oz indigo jeans - it's smoother and more uniform texturally and colour-wise. I'm rapidly falling in love with it though - it's already becoming soft and pliable while remaining heavy and substantial. I love what the ODing does to the buttons and thread too. And happy with the fit, though I hope the sleeves don't lose too much more length. My first type-3 - love it!

    last edited by 16 Sept 2020, 02:39 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • S
      sabergirl
      見習いボス
      Joined: 4 Oct 2013

      Perfect fit on that.

      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

      last edited by 16 Sept 2020, 02:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • P
        Paul9221
        啓蒙家
        Joined: 19 Apr 2011

        That looks amazing on you!  Good job picking it up. Your wallet will hurt for a bit but you'll always look badass in that jacket 🙂

        Blanket-line all the things!!!

        last edited by 16 Sept 2020, 02:59 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • O
          Oroccoco
          The Unwoven
          Joined: 3 Aug 2020

          Thanks to you both  🙂 It's a keeper, looking forward to seeing how it develops, just need to stop fondling the denim in public, people are looking at me funny.

          last edited by 16 Sept 2020, 10:04 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • N
            neph93
            見習いボス
            Joined: 18 Aug 2014

            @Oroccoco:

            It's my first IH OD and initially I wondered if the denim lacked character a bit compared with my 21oz indigo jeans - it's smoother and more uniform texturally and colour-wise.

            Compared to some other brands, a lot of Haraki-san's denim has a smooth, even hand and texture. He likes it like that. The indigo 22oz has a very similar hand ond twill pattern to 21oz, and overdying accentuates these features in both denims. This is a result of shrinkage and the tightening of the weave, the cloth being stuffed with an extra dose of dye, and the heat take what little irregularity and fuzz there was out of the original fabric. It also lends a matte quality to the colour and garment.

            There are other changes to the fabric that I find quite beautiful. The smell, the dry feel, the inky colour, as well as the softness and drape you mention. Despite the somewhat toned down effect that the overdying process creates, there is a wonderful depth of colour to the denim. It is subtle but there is a shift in colour in different lights, sometimes a sheen comes through, other times there is the hint of indigo or silvery grey.

            The real magic here is that as with almost all of Haraki-san's denim the beauty starts developing with wear. OD's evolution is really dynamic and the 3D effect that occurs as the fabric starts bunching, creasing and losing different layers of colour is just superb. It just keeps on going, year after year too. This is my second OD type III, and while the first at five years is still in regular use and fine form, buying another one wasn't even a tricky deceision to make.

            “Some of those that work forces
            Are the same that burn crosses”

            • Virginia Woolf
            last edited by 16 Sept 2020, 10:49 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
            • O
              Oroccoco
              The Unwoven
              Joined: 3 Aug 2020

              Thanks @neph93, that's interesting info re. the OD process. The stuff is certainly dense, but it feels almost engineered to mold to fit. I'm new to the game, but I'm beginning to realise that part of the fascination with denim for those who fall for it is the sheer variety and the craftsmanship and individual approaches that lie behind that. Must have been interesting to pick up a new one and go right back to an OD denim in its virgin form. Hence the addiction I suppose. Cheers again!

              last edited by 17 Sept 2020, 12:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • L
                Lowlander
                Haraki san Expert
                Joined: 4 Oct 2019

                @Oroccoco:

                Thanks @neph93, that's interesting info re. the OD process.

                I agree. You said it very well, @neph93! In fact, your enthusiasm about this jacket and your pics posted here earlier this summer were important reasons for me to also get one. And I'm glad I did!

                last edited by 17 Sept 2020, 12:51 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • N
                  neph93
                  見習いボス
                  Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                  Cheers @Lowlander @Oroccoco  I’ll throw up some side by side comparisons of the old and new when I get some decent light (which may not be until March [emoji1]).

                  It is fun to see how the different denims turn out after the overdye. The brown weft of the 22oz definitely makes for a darker starting point that the 21oz, while the 19oz LHT comes up different again because of the rougher, more textured weave of the denim. They all fade differently too.

                  It really is nerdy stuff [emoji23]

                  “Some of those that work forces
                  Are the same that burn crosses”

                  • Virginia Woolf
                  last edited by 17 Sept 2020, 15:43 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                  • M
                    Mustafa911
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined: 26 Jan 2017

                    @lowlander
                    Great fit !! Lately , I am wearing indoors . I can’t wait for cold  weather

                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                    last edited by 18 Sept 2020, 00:24 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • G
                      goosehd
                      Mod Squad
                      Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                      This is my favourite type III to date!

                      "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                      last edited by 20 Oct 2020, 12:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • L
                        Lowlander
                        Haraki san Expert
                        Joined: 4 Oct 2019

                        Looks like a perfect fit, and great outfit overall! Nice autumn colors in the garden too by the way.

                        Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A520F met Tapatalk

                        last edited by 20 Oct 2020, 13:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • G
                          Graham
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined: 8 May 2014

                          Autumnal AF @goosehd ! OD and Olive looks wicked together!

                          @gmac_ironheart
                          🤘

                          last edited by 20 Oct 2020, 16:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • P
                            Paul9221
                            啓蒙家
                            Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                            I want to frame that picture and put it on my desk!  Looking fantastic, sir!

                            Blanket-line all the things!!!

                            last edited by 20 Oct 2020, 17:09 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • Madame ButtonflyM
                              Madame Buttonfly
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined: 28 Sept 2009

                              Great to see you @goosehd - garden is looking beautiful (as are you, of course) 😘

                              AKA Mrs G

                              last edited by 20 Oct 2020, 17:17 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • G
                                goosehd
                                Mod Squad
                                Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                                @Madame Buttonfly Thank you..You brought a smile to my face.

                                "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                                last edited by 20 Oct 2020, 18:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • N
                                  neph93
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                                  ALL OF THE ABOVE!!! One of the best pics I’ve seen on here for a long while. The kit is sublime and the garden is a dream.

                                  “Some of those that work forces
                                  Are the same that burn crosses”

                                  • Virginia Woolf
                                  last edited by 20 Oct 2020, 18:08 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • KasiK
                                    Kasi
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined: 9 Oct 2014

                                    Iron Heart crew when they due back in again.

                                    Thanks

                                    The world's insane
                                    While you drink champagne
                                    And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                                    last edited by 31 Dec 2020, 01:27 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • AlexA
                                      Alex
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined: 28 Sept 2009

                                      Probably March, Mo.

                                      last edited by 31 Dec 2020, 09:11 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • KasiK
                                        Kasi
                                        見習いボス
                                        Joined: 9 Oct 2014

                                        Cheers

                                        Alex

                                        The world's insane
                                        While you drink champagne
                                        And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                                        last edited by 31 Dec 2020, 09:35 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • N
                                          neph93
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                                          I bought this for summer wear, but I hate not being able to wear it. The muffler and an N-1 over it means it works as an in between layer even in -7C.

                                          “Some of those that work forces
                                          Are the same that burn crosses”

                                          • Virginia Woolf
                                          last edited by 5 Feb 2021, 20:13 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
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