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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    The (Less intimidating) Watch Thread

    Accessories
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    • GraemeG
      Graeme
      啓蒙家
      Joined:

      @neph93 if you're a regular reader of Hodinkee, anything over 38 mm, or even 36 mm, is considered an oversized vulgarity, and the watch should be made in a smaller size. 😉

      OK, more seriously, don't sweat it. The important thing is that the lugs don't project beyond your wrist. You lift, and you've got a decent set of arms on you, so you could go bigger if you want.

      My opinion, which I've repeated regularly, is that you'll get used to a watch of a given size pretty quickly. If you normally wear a 44 mm one, then a Hodinkee-friendly 36 mm will look undersized for the first few days, and vice-versa.

      If you're looking for an all-round piece, I'd probably suggest around 40 mm, which is a typical man's size these days, and should fit under cuffs. But if that 50 mm clock looks really good on you, then go for it. (I've got a soft spot for things that have character, and don't give a feck. I like the IWC Big Pilot's Heritage 48 and Panerai Mare Nostrum - pics on the other thread - which are yuge!)

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      • JDelageJ
        JDelage
        啓蒙家
        Joined:

        The other thing to consider is how high the watch is on your wrist. This is a function of (doh!) the height of the watch's case but also how the lugs are integrated into the case. It matters because watches that are high and have steep "walls" might not fit as easily under a shirt, especially a dress shirt.

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        • DishelveledD
          Dishelveled
          Joined:

          38mm Chris Ward Vintage trident pro.

          Very glad I went for the smaller of the two sizes. 
          These go on sale a few times a year and I really like the style.

          That IH Pinion watch is a stunner!

          Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

          Instagram: defy_delphi

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          • ChrisC
            Chris
            Raw and Unwashed
            Joined:

            Something to remember when debating watch sizes- do not go by people's wrist shots to gauge how a watch will look in real life.  They always look bigger in pics (that's what she said!).  Whenever possible, try them on. If not possible, go to a watch store and try on a variety of sizes and styles, so that when you see something online and read that it's a 44mm cushion case, you have an idea what that will translate to on your wrist.

            That said, I think watches in the 40-42mm range work well on pretty much anyone.

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            • neph93N
              neph93
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              @JDelage  @Shoreman  @Graeme  thank you all for the input and info. @Dishelveled  thanks for the useful demo…

              @Chris and along you come and ruin my thinking… I’d just decided a 38mm was a doable size  😃

              “Some of those that work forces
              Are the same that burn crosses”

              • Virginia Woolf
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              • JDelageJ
                JDelage
                啓蒙家
                Joined:

                That Chris Ward seems like a good value. I considered them for a dive watch.

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                • ChrisC
                  Chris
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined:

                  38mm absolutely is a doable size.

                  Besides, I thought you'd learned by now to ignore me…

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • neph93N
                    neph93
                    見習いボス
                    Joined:

                    @Chris:

                    38mm absolutely is a doable size.

                    Besides, I thought you'd learned by now to ignore me…

                    I appreciate the advice my hairless compadré.

                    Given that I wear jewellery on both wrists, a 38mm field watch seems like a good bet for me. Relatively plain, small and simple.

                    “Some of those that work forces
                    Are the same that burn crosses”

                    • Virginia Woolf
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                    • GilesG
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined:

                      I'm still at a loss to understand what a dive watch really is.  I dive with my Pinion.  It's waterproof to the depths I dive (65 Meters - 210' max), I can read it easily and have no need for a bezel (not sure what to do with one and I have dived seriously for 20 years)….

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                      • neph93N
                        neph93
                        見習いボス
                        Joined:

                        I’ve been assuming it’s a style of watch more than a practical descriptor.

                        “Some of those that work forces
                        Are the same that burn crosses”

                        • Virginia Woolf
                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • madmondayM
                          madmonday
                          Raw and Unwashed
                          Joined:

                          maybe this might be helpful for folks trying to figure out what size watch they are comfortable with

                          it helped me and confirm I am a girly man who likes smaller watches to match my small donald trump hands

                          head high, middle finger higher

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                          • manufc10M
                            manufc10
                            Iron Heart Deity
                            Joined:

                            Like others have said it's all going to depend on personal comfort and wrist size, but I prefer 42-48mm range.  Too small is too feminine IMO and too large is just…too large lol.  There's been a trend in the past several years of huge watch faces on men and it gets a little ridiculous sometimes.

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                            • JDelageJ
                              JDelage
                              啓蒙家
                              Joined:

                              @Giles:

                              I'm still at a loss to understand what a dive watch really is.  I dive with my Pinion.  It's waterproof to the depths I dive (65 Meters - 210' max), I can read it easily and have no need for a bezel (not sure what to do with one and I have dived seriously for 20 years)….

                              I suspect you say that tongue-in-cheek. As we all know, no one needs a watch to dive anymore, with the modern computers. Dive watches are the watches that have functions that were required of them when watches were an indispensable part of a diver's equipment, before computers. I learned to dive in 86 or so, and for the ~10 years after that dive computers (and BCDs by the way) were first inexistent and then very expensive and very rare. The divemasters had to rely on tables and time their dive at depth as precisely as possible, and for that a 1-way rotating bezel is very effective.

                              As for the waterproof rating, it's a fairly abstract number. It's completely possible to flood a watch at a lower depth than it's rated for, depending on circumstances. Hopefully it's less likely to happen for a 300m rated watch than a 100m watch.

                              I agree that nowadays, no diver needs a diving watch. Similarly, pilots don't need pilots' watches, athletes don't need a racing watch, yachtmen don't need yachting watches, doctors don't need doctors' watches, etc. All those cover sets of features that are not needed anymore for their intended use.

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                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                It was a little tongue in cheek, but not completely…..

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                • JDelageJ
                                  JDelage
                                  啓蒙家
                                  Joined:

                                  Fair enough.

                                  Personally I like diving watches because I have that connection with diving (although I don't rely on a watch for this) but also because I like the design and the fact that they're typically fairly rugged watches. They fit my tastes and lifestyle better than dress watch, chronos, and the like.

                                  With this said, many of the "dive watches" are poorly designed for their original use. The bezel on my Seamaster (the blue James Bond model) has no sharp knurling, just a very smooth scalloping. It is hard to rotate when dry and would be impossible to do when wet, nevermind with gloves.

                                  Dedicated watches are really an anachronism nowadays, ironically enough.

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                                  • neph93N
                                    neph93
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined:

                                    @madmonday:

                                    maybe this might be helpful for folks trying to figure out what size watch they are comfortable with

                                    Thanks for that Mike. Helpful.

                                    “Some of those that work forces
                                    Are the same that burn crosses”

                                    • Virginia Woolf
                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • neph93N
                                      neph93
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      Bearing in mind I know so very, very little about this (which is why this thread exists I suppose) is it odd that I find the lugs on most watches of 42mm or more inelegant? Feels like I'm missing something…

                                      “Some of those that work forces
                                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                                      • Virginia Woolf
                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • DougNgD
                                        DougNg
                                        Joined:

                                        I really don't feel like watches are an anachronism. It's not always convenient or wise to yank out your smartphone to check the time. 1. it can be seen as being rude 2. you can't always reach into your pocket 3. it gives you a chance to drop your phone 4. it's not always wise to light up your surroundings (I'm thinking the movie theatre)

                                        Re: sizes. One thing most people don't realize about dive watches is the face and legibility is not as good as compared to a field watch of the same size. A field watch of the same size has a much larger face and is easier to read on the fly than a dive watch with the same diameter.

                                        I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

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                                        • DougNgD
                                          DougNg
                                          Joined:

                                          I think dive watches are pretty good at a whole bunch of things, but really the master of nothing.

                                          They're better looking than a watch built for pure function. They're more durable than a dress watch. They have been around long enough and popular enough that plenty of companies have put work and thought into making them unique. If I wanted the absolute in those categories:

                                          Beauty: pretty much anything from A. Lange and Sohne, but I wouldn't be caught dead gardening with one on.
                                          Toughness: G-Shock. If anything were tougher, the Bureau of Prisons Search and Rescue Team would use them. You are not tougher than them.
                                          Artistic experimentation: pretty much half the stuff Graeme posts up.

                                          With all that being said, my Seamasters are my most worn watches, but I know their limitations.

                                          I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

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                                          • JDelageJ
                                            JDelage
                                            啓蒙家
                                            Joined:

                                            Watches I thought would be super easy to read are often pilots' watches.

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