Engineer boots
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Bare in mind that we're talking Wesco's now. My knowledge otherwise is limited.
Short answer is, yes you can get a 1" heel height or thereabouts, with a #705 outer heel on top.
Long answer: The heels are built of layers of leather that measure about 4mm thick. You can add or remove these to adjust the height of the heel. There comes a point where lowering the heel too much requires a new last. Fortunately Wesco have you covered and make a special lowered heel last for their Boss. I suspect you'll want that.
There are a few leather options, if you're going for brown and want something semi formal though, the brown domain or new British (?) domain are the only way to go. The oil tanned brown doesn't take a shine too well and is a seriously heavy, thick, workmanlike leather.
Both my custom Boss are 11" and I like the height, but I'm looking at getting a pair of 8" made at the moment. It's more a less a matter of taste unless you're working/riding in the boot. If you wear tapered denim then a shorter shaft might be a good idea.
The IHTB-BOBRN uses brown domain. I have a feeling it's been used up and that new custom boots will need to be made of the British domain. It's pretty great stuff though. The lead time on custom Wesco's is between three and four months I'm afraid.
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Greatly appreciated @neph93 . I just checked everything out on the Wesco site and it looks like the brown domain is still available. What is the difference between the 700 and 705 sole? They have the identical description on the wesco site.
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They are identical except that the #700 runs the full length of the boot between the midsole and heel. The #705 has just a front piece and back piece. Check out the outersoles on the IHWE-5 (705) compared to the BOBRN (700).
Got it. Learning so much. Thanks Neph.
Do all of the IH/Wesco Engineers have the motor patrol toe? I think I like that one best.
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The only one that doesn't at the moment is this pair: https://www.ironheart.co.uk/boots2/tbwe-po.html
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Thanks again for all the help guys. Looks like for my first pair I might just have to get something in stock then do a custom pair in the future when my size is naled down and I'm not in a rush to get them.
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Always important to get the sizing down first. Nothing hurts more than making your dream boots and then not being able to wear them.
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I bet you could order a pair of boots from IHUK to make sure they fit, and then return them when you submit a custom order… a $35-50 cost to gain 100% confidence.
And when it comes down to it, it sounds like the BOBRN might be your best option - @Giles can assist with sizing, and they have a good bit of stock on hand. Plus, it has very faintly dyed midsoles, the good leather, and the shorter heel you want. And the longer straps
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It does sound like the brown BOBRN might be my best option. Now to figure out my size. Anyone who owns the converse all star 70's, what's your size in those and in Wesco? Also need to figure out if I'm a D or EE width. I'm going to measure my foot on a brannock in the next few days too.
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I wear a 9.5 in 70s and have some 10D Wescos coming soon
I wear a 10 in vans, 10.5 in Nike, 10 in Red Wing
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Thanks @Appfaff. I'm a 10.5 in 70's so by that conversion I'll try 11D in Wesco.
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Good luck! FYI, I wear thin socks with my chucks (Stance athletic) and usually boot socks (very thick) with my pull on boots. Hope that helps a bit as well.
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If you can wear 70’s chucks then your foot is most likely a D width. Those shoes are very narrow. I wear 11.5 in the 70’s and 11.5D in my Boss
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If you can wear 70’s chucks then your foot is most likely a D width. Those shoes are very narrow. I wear 11.5 in the 70’s and 11.5D in my Boss
Thanks for that info. Figuring out what width I might be was my next quest. I have always considered myself to have a narrow foot. So considering @Appfaff's comments about the socks and the fact that you wear your same size in 70's and Boss I'm guessing right now I could be a 10.5D with thin socks, 11D with thicker boot socks.
Thanks again for all of the info everyone. Very helpful.
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@manufc10 - Yeah, My foot is a bit wider - I wear an E in some boots. I can easily wear a 9.5E in MP last in Wescos with thin socks. If you are narrow, you can probably rock a 10.5D.
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Is Brannock sizing largely ignored or is it a good baseline? I measured my foot on a Brannock and I'm a 12.5 heel to toe and a 13 arch length (with a sock on). You're supposed to go with your arch length if it's larger than your heel to toe measurement which makes me a 13. This means I would be a 12 in Viberg (11.5 if I went by heel to toe) for example per Vibergs sizing instructions. Doesn't seem right to me, seems large.
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I'm a pretty consistent US11 tag size in most shoes, 10.5 in Chuck 70's.
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I would go with what you generally wear. Even when I sold shoes, I didn't trust the Brannock.