Engineer boots
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Support everything @Appfaff said. His first point bears repeating and expanding on, natural midsoles are lovely when new but if you don’t embrace things changing character quickly and getting dirtied up in the process then they may not be for you.
I share his opinion that the IHWE-5 is a truly glorious boot. The only reason I don’t have a pair is the #705 sole, which I love, but is of limited use where I live. I have one pair with it already, two would be a waste.
Why is the 705 sole of limited use to you?
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@manufc10 Where I live there is snow, ice and salt solution on the ground for 4-6 months of the year. The #705 is low traction and doesn't do well on ice. It also doesn't cover the whole midsole leaving part of it exposed to snow, salt solution etc which will degrade it over time. Rubber outsoles can be easily replaced. Badly damaged midsoles can't. So boots with the #705 are impractical November to April. I have the #430 sole for my winter boots.
To be clear, the Vibram #705 is the rubber outer sole on the Vibergs and IHWE-5 (amongst others). It's different to the other Vibram soles as it comes in two parts and the front part doesn't follow the entire length of the boot. This is taken from Wesco's site https://www.wescoboots.com/builder/BootOptions.aspx?list=pullon and covers the different soles they offer on their custom builds, it should help you understand the differences in function and appearance:
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Comments in italics [emoji6]
1. I actually like the look of the natural color midsoles
Be aware, they won't stay that colour for long2. I'm assuming the 705 is the shorter heel that's on the Viberg's? If so then yes, I prefer the 705. I like the look of a shorter heel
See my last post for what the #705 is3. This is the kind of info I love hearing as well, some user experience regarding the short straps curling. I think that would annoy me if it gets caught on pant legs so I'll have to say I would want the longer straps.
A custom build might be the thing for you4. hmmm….not sure if it's going to bother me much that they scuff like a mofo but again, great info here. Viberg also makes a black and brown horsebutt? version (my inner 15 year old still laughs at this). Would horsebutt be the way to go if I don't want them to scuff so much?
Horsebutt is different in many ways, someone else can probably say more than me as I don't own boots with horsebutt5. I haven't looked into the IHWE-BUILD-5 but I am DEFINITELY open to that. I will look into those. So noob question….what does "sleek last" mean?
The standard Wesco Boss toe is not sleek. It's a big, rough, tough boot, with a wide rounded toe. The sleeker style of toe, with a lower profile and taper towards the toe end is popular with a lot of folks. The Wesco version of this is called the Motor Patrol toe and almost all IH's Wesco Boss collabs have this sleeker toe, including the IHWE-5. Those Viberg boots are also on the sleeker side of things. -
@neph93 , thank you so much! I've learned a lot already.
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I keep leaning towards the Vibergs myself. Maybe I'll look into the horsebutt ones.
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Check out John’s blog at VintageEngineerBoots.com
You may find some aesthetics you have not yet seen that really spark your interest.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Check out John’s blog at VintageEngineerBoots.com
You may find some aesthetics you have not yet seen that really spark your interest.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks @Appfaff
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Horse hide is a lot more scuff resistant than CXL. That stuff scratches if you breathe too hard in its general direction.
And brown boots. Always.
Never black.
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CXL will mould to your specific foot shape super quickly
As Chris says it does take a scuff, I would NEVER choose CXL for a dress shoe/boot
Brown, never black
We could do you a custom based on these:
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CXL will mould to your specific foot shape super quickly
As Chris says it does take a scuff, I would NEVER choose CXL for a dress shoe/boot
Brown, never blackWe could do you a custom based on these:
Really appreciating all this info. Just.out of curiosity, why do you guys prefer brown always over black? @Chris?
Ok so custom based on the IHTB-BOBRN…that is a very intriguing option....stupid question time;
1. What exactly can I customize? The type and color of leather? The sole as well, or does that stay the same?
2. I am assuming a custom build can't be returned/exchanged? I have no idea what my size would be in these so I'm guessing chances are I might not get it right the first time.
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Really appreciating all this info. Just.out of curiosity, why do you guys prefer brown always over black? @Chris?
Ok so custom based on the IHTB-BOBRN…that is a very intriguing option....stupid question time;
1. What exactly can I customize? The type and color of leather? The sole as well, or does that stay the same?
2. I am assuming a custom build can't be returned/exchanged? I have no idea what my size would be in these so I'm guessing chances are I might not get it right the first time.
I can't speak for G and the Fake Texan but I think brown is much more versatile. My first pair of Boss are black, and while I really like the build and the boot off foot, it doesn't wow me on foot with gear. They're practical af though, so still take a battering.
With Wesco's ordered through G you can customise everything. Heel height, number of straps, type of straps, strap length, buckles, leather, midsoles, outer soles, stitching colour, last/toe shape. You. Frikkin. Name. It.
You're right in your assumption but with a little help from your friends (on the forum and in sunny Gosport) it'll work out fine
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Really appreciating all this info. Just.out of curiosity, why do you guys prefer brown always over black? @Chris?
Ok so custom based on the IHTB-BOBRN…that is a very intriguing option....stupid question time;
1. What exactly can I customize? The type and color of leather? The sole as well, or does that stay the same?
2. I am assuming a custom build can't be returned/exchanged? I have no idea what my size would be in these so I'm guessing chances are I might not get it right the first time.
I can't speak for G and the Fake Texan but I think brown is much more versatile. My first pair of Boss are black, and while I really like the build and the boot off foot, it doesn't wow me on foot with gear. They're practical af though, so still take a battering.
With Wesco's ordered through G you can customise everything. Heel height, number of straps, type of straps, strap length, buckles, leather, midsoles, outer soles, stitching colour, last/toe shape. You. Frikkin. Name. It.
You're right in your assumption but with a little help from your friends (on the forum and in sunny Gosport) it'll work out fine
I can see what you're saying regarding the brown over black comments. I shall choose brown!
Regarding custom boots through G….wow. Ok I can see this as being a whole new rabbit hole I can easily get sucked in to. Customizing heel height is a cool option for me cause I've never liked the look of tall heels on mens boots. @neph93 when you say customizing heel height are you implying that I can order any specific measurement of my choosing or are you saying the heel height can be customized by way of picking which model heel/sole I chose per the Wesco options? In other words, can I say I want the 705 sole but with a heel height of 1"? Just as an example, not saying I would go with just a 1" heel height.
Where are the options for the leather choices available? On the Wesco site? This is pretty damn cool btw. Honestly I think the only thing I would customize on these is maybe make it an 8" height instead of 10", and then maybe just consider different leather options and use the 705 over the 700.
Any thoughts on this? Do you prefer a 10" or 8" height? Any thoughts on the 700 vs the 705? Sorry for all the annoying noob questions but this is exciting
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I do love the color on that Brown of the IHTB-BOBRN though. Looks very versatile and sharp as fuck.
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Also, one more question, what is the general turn around time on a custom order? I have a wedding in about 5 weeks from now and I'm wanting to have a pair by then.
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Bare in mind that we're talking Wesco's now. My knowledge otherwise is limited.
Short answer is, yes you can get a 1" heel height or thereabouts, with a #705 outer heel on top.
Long answer: The heels are built of layers of leather that measure about 4mm thick. You can add or remove these to adjust the height of the heel. There comes a point where lowering the heel too much requires a new last. Fortunately Wesco have you covered and make a special lowered heel last for their Boss. I suspect you'll want that.
There are a few leather options, if you're going for brown and want something semi formal though, the brown domain or new British (?) domain are the only way to go. The oil tanned brown doesn't take a shine too well and is a seriously heavy, thick, workmanlike leather.
Both my custom Boss are 11" and I like the height, but I'm looking at getting a pair of 8" made at the moment. It's more a less a matter of taste unless you're working/riding in the boot. If you wear tapered denim then a shorter shaft might be a good idea.
The IHTB-BOBRN uses brown domain. I have a feeling it's been used up and that new custom boots will need to be made of the British domain. It's pretty great stuff though. The lead time on custom Wesco's is between three and four months I'm afraid.
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Greatly appreciated @neph93 . I just checked everything out on the Wesco site and it looks like the brown domain is still available. What is the difference between the 700 and 705 sole? They have the identical description on the wesco site.
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They are identical except that the #700 runs the full length of the boot between the midsole and heel. The #705 has just a front piece and back piece. Check out the outersoles on the IHWE-5 (705) compared to the BOBRN (700).
Got it. Learning so much. Thanks Neph.
Do all of the IH/Wesco Engineers have the motor patrol toe? I think I like that one best.
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The only one that doesn't at the moment is this pair: https://www.ironheart.co.uk/boots2/tbwe-po.html
