Freewheelers and Co.
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That's not a "different strokes" thing, flat bottom hems are intended not to be tucked, this other kind is intended for tucking. That doesn't mean you have to, just sharing the sartorial intent of that kind of a shirt tail.
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I understand what you're getting at Ben, and actually had some similar concerns at one point. But I've since changed my mind completely.
Let's take FW's "Trackwalker" shirt as case study. This is one of their best and most popular designs, and one that they produce in a wide range of fabrics (including the very popular wabash). It has a curved hem and either side of the hem is also rounded on the front. It's a classic and classy design (the full name for this shirt includes the date 1911). And one that can seem a bit odd at first. Truth is though that it looks very good when worn.
The real issue isn't with the curved hem, but with the length. Some of FW's shirts have quite long hems (i.e. Conductor), but the Trackwalker is not all that long. The above shirt is probably a size 15 and the length is 74cm. For many shorter people that will mean tucking in. But I've seen others wear that length very well (for example the model above.)
For me the Trackwalker is about perfect length. And its nicely curved hem is my new standard.
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True–though you would almost never model a shirt tucked in because prospective buyers need to see the whole shirt. That the placket ends above the belt line indicates to me this was designed as a tucker--though it looks fine untucked.
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MCL, I wouldn't disagree that this style of placket and hem was originally meant to be worn tucked in, but it's more difficult to say that the contemporary re-inventors of this shirt designed it to be worn tucked in. I don't think I've ever seen any of the guys from FW do that.
Also, my other favorite shirt, NC's British Officers Shirt, has the same placket style, and I've never seen Nigel wear it tucked in.
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^Very true, TBH I was thinking more of the early 20th century design than the actual FW piece.
I almost never tuck and most of my shirts have "tuck" hems–so I'm mainly talking about the original intent of that kind of hem acting as a shirt stay more that what we're supposed to do with them. The only button-down shirt I always tuck (back to your point about body length) is a very long-bodied Mister Freedom Ranch Hand Shirt I bought from you.
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Indeed. It's one of the many design details that have strayed from their original function.
And to length we would also need to add width. The MF shirt isn't really all that long but the bottom hem tends to billowing. (I saw one site that describes it as "slim fit", to which I wholeheartedly disagree).
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We're is the best place to buy FW stuff if I'm in the US?
Love this piece:
http://instagram.com/p/vQkGGXJKby/ -
^I actually just picked up that exact shirt in black salt & pepper in a 17.5. It's really nice, although a little lighter than I expected.
There are some links posted a couple pages back with stores that sell FW. You will most likely have to order from Japan.
EDIT: It looks like the Instagram Hammersmith is a flannel, where mine is a chambray.
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Thanks sean. I think Poncho and Lefty is getting ready to take my money.
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The Hammersmith was released last year in double faced flannel (blue and gold) and chambray (grained grey-black). The gold flannel version sold extremely well and quickly and so they decided to do it again this year. They'll also be doing it in a black flannel version with a nice brown contrast stitching. This years version has yet to hit.
It's a great shirt. The flannel has a very soft hand, like a vintage chamois.
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Chiba, I'm looking at the wool CPO as well. Any thoughts on it?
From what I have seen P&L prices are in line with Rakuten
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Sweet. Thanks for the info, Chiba. I'm really impressed with the Hammersmith chambray. As I mentioned, it's a bit lighter than I expected, which is a good thing. I need some lighter shirts.
The fabric has a great texture, and is very breathable. You can tell that it will develop really well with some wear.
The construction is top notch, and there is a lot of character (read: style) in the details. I also find the cut to be ideal.
This will not be my last purchase from FW. Thanks to all who helped point me in their direction.
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I haven't looked at P&L's prices, but I know that Hickorees is consistently higher than Japanese retailers.
The FW CPO is great. Tried it on last week. Somewhat funny that you mention it as I will also be picking up the gold hammersmith and the CPO. Did you have any specific questions on it?
There's been a big discussion on CPOs over at Denimbro over the last few days, and the FW was the center of attention. The FW has a very different wool than the usual melton etc. It's a very thick and very visually interesting weave. Overall a fantastic shirt. One of the best in their lineup, and surely one of the best CPOs you'll find being produced today. Good luck finding one though, that can be the tough part…..
The chambray hammersmith is really nice. But also a totally different beast from the flannels. You're right. It is a lot lighter than one might expect. And it's the details that really make that shirt.
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^Yes, $325 without VAT
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I have had great experience purchasing FW straight from Japan (I have two Travis shirts inbound) – much less expensive than from Hickorees and far greater selection.
I wore my FW Brodovitch this evening:
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That jacket is sick….awesome fit
