18oz indigo weft/indigo warp - IH-666SII and IH-634SII
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The first run will not use blue constructional threads. I spent a long time discussing this with Haraki and Tom today. Haraki's view is that anyone can make a pair of blue jeans look good if they are stitched in blue as it does not matter how shit the stitching is, it can't be seen. Our stitching is good and that is important to him. Tom's suggestion is that we use the same constructional thread as we use on the 634S, not the thicker thread we use on some of the more recent jeans, this will tome down the contrast. I'll also one was the jean, which gives a little indigo bleed into the constructional threads…I have a pair here with one pocket stitched in blue and one stitched in yellow/orange. I'll post pics soon.
I love that you guys are so into this, but the above is what I have agreed with Haraki. I further agreed that if we are proved wrong and sales are shite, then we will revisit. This is a compromise between what can be done and what H feels comfortable with. I am already pushing the boundaries with what H will sanction. First comment about the denim, "It's a beautiful twill cloth, but it's not denim, I am sure you can sell it Giles, but I not like". Since seeing the actual jean he has mellowed his approach a little.
And to avoid confusion, the only reason the lhs pocket of the sample has any yellow thread on it is because we took a pair of the all yellow samples and unpicked what we could and oversewed, we did not want to deal with taking out the constructional rivets.
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R&R thank you. I did not want to mention any other jeans companies, but I have met with Ken-san from PBJ 3 times in the last 3 weeks. I love him, his ethos and the product, but quite frankly if we do release these in blue/blue/blue, then you may as well go an buy a pair of PBJ's. You mentioned a couple of other brands that some of my retailers stock, if I make these too similar to other products on the market I'll get limited take up from retailers.
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Great looking denim, and I understand the argument with respect to the stitching colour for a pair of jeans (although I do think they would look awesome in blue), but, if you do a chino or work pant then I think there's greater justification for using the blue thread…..but that's just my opinion
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I'm not so sure it would look 'cheap'. The 25oz jeans are almost this dark and have very thick, very bright stitching. I've never heard complaints about those, so I don't see why this would be an issue with the indigo/indigo.
true and true, but imo (and yes, i know the decision is already final!) these 18oz are serving a whole different niche. 25oz is brutal and loud, so the louder lighter threads do work pretty well with those…and o/course they are a bit lighter overall, so it matches the denim way better as it does on the 18oz blue warp and weft!
18oz and imo the way the whole denim looks like, it deserves to be a little less loud imo...gonna hold back with my statement until i've seen a "final" version with the indigo colored (after wash that is!) threads. maybe it doesn't even look that shitty from a far, but atm. blue would have been my vote!
so let's wait and see what the brilliant mind of G. (since H. doesn't like them that much) has for us in the end...watching and following this thread closely!
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so i presume the work pant cut is out all the way?
i was super excited to see a selvedge work pant!
either way these look damn cool, will be hard to say no! i'm looking forward to seeing the washed version in hopes the thread takes on some indigo which is what i wanted in the first place.
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contrast stitching on those is a bit loud… but it will look a lot better as they're worn in. Take the time with these (or any other pair of jeans) and you'll have great results.
