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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Making Boots

    Footwear
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    • HemiH
      Hemi
      Joined:

      I've been working with a New Zealand craftsman on these simple hand-made boots using local materials (where possible).  He's a great fella who lives on a beach making work boots for farmers and forestry workers.  The last time I visited him he had crushed three of his fingers off the week before and was still working with an old bandage on his hand… tough old bugger!

      This is the final sample for this model, no name yet.  I'm also working on a Vibram sole version.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • Megatron1505M
        Megatron1505
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        Those are very, very nice.

        Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • FOXYF
          FOXY
          Joined:

          What kind of construction?
          Doesn't look like your average Goodyear + Welted…

          Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • HemiH
            Hemi
            Joined:

            This is the construction process:

            Leather upper pressed
            Sew uppers
            Form the upper over the last. Pull the front up by hand and check the eyelets etc are even side to side then back onto the last jack
            Pull the sides in by hand and attach the sides and waste
            Put into the heel laster to make nice clean heel bed
            Toe last by hand
            Add steel shank
            Brass screw wire the leather runner
            Double cement leather runner & sole
            Trim the leather sole
            Polish the leather sole

            This is a diagram of the boots my guy makes but with a commando sole.

            I think it is the same or similar technique that William Lennon uses?  I've also heard there are only 5 of these old Brass Screw Machines left in the World, but I could be wrong?

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • GraemeG
              Graeme
              啓蒙家
              Joined:

              Nice boots Hemi.

              It does sound like the same construction that William Lennon uses. According to Loomstate:

              The world population of these machines numbers five; two here, one in Cornwall, one in Australia and one in New Zealand.

              Looks like your friend's is the fifth in that list.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • MoonshineM
                Moonshine
                Joined:

                Great looking boot and awesome backstory!  We need some pics of the cobbler and his shop!  What's the price (in USD)?  I think the cobbler's wallet is going to get fatter after seeing these boots!

                www.moonshineleatherworks.tumblr.com
                instagram.com/moonshineleatherworks

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • natehateN
                  natehate
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined:

                  those are dope and moonshine might be right

                  don't you know there ain't no devil? only god when he's drunk!

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • supersalamiS
                    supersalami
                    Joined:

                    wow! need more info on these price wise and shipping availability soon!!

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • HemiH
                      Hemi
                      Joined:

                      I'll have more details shortly but here are some pictures of the workshop in the meantime.  I was concentrating so hard on watching the process that I didn't take many photo's so I'll get better one's on my next visit.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • MoonshineM
                        Moonshine
                        Joined:

                        Awesome!  Real deal stuff there!  I like this guy and I don't even know him!

                        www.moonshineleatherworks.tumblr.com
                        instagram.com/moonshineleatherworks

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • ChrisC
                          Chris
                          Raw and Unwashed
                          Joined:

                          Is that a row of Landis 5 stitchers?  Wow, that's nice.

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • joesaintjohnJ
                            joesaintjohn
                            啓蒙家
                            Joined:

                            I still wanna find out some price info…

                            Fat dudes need good clothes too.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • HemiH
                              Hemi
                              Joined:

                              Do you guys prefer a heavier weight leather tongue or a lighter one.  I'm using a lighter one at the moment because its more comfortable and the only option is to use the same leather as the upper which is quite a bit thicker but I'm not sure how it would feel?

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • zhivagoZ
                                zhivago
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:

                                it is nice for comfort but wear wise keeping things uniform has its advantages too. All that aside, I really like to look of these Hemi, excited to see how this continues.

                                Zhivago

                                MM: "we all got to start somewhere"

                                G: "Never once did he bitch, moan or complain.  He just motivated the team and got on with it"

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • ChrisC
                                  Chris
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  Depends; is it a gusseted or non-gusseted tongue?  If it's an ordinary tongue, then full thickness leather would be my opinion.  However, the additional layers of a gusseted tongue warrant a thinner leather, I think.

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • HemiH
                                    Hemi
                                    Joined:

                                    Thanks guy's… I've been working on this for a while, its real labour of love.

                                    The boots have a half gusset tongue so I think the leather we used for the upper will be too thick.  I might see if I can get a slightly heavier leather or I 'll have to go with the lighter weight one which still looks good and does the job.

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • GilesG
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined:

                                      My Viberg service boots have a full gussetted  tongue and it is made from what feels like calf, it is perfect….

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • ChrisC
                                        Chris
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        I agree completely on the Viberg service boot tongue.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • HemiH
                                          Hemi
                                          Joined:

                                          Here's another sample boot I'm working on…  I'm not sure about the colour?

                                          Features:

                                          • Thick yellow reverse kip suede leather upper sourced from the Tasman Tannery in Whanganui, New Zealand
                                          • Brass eyelets & white contrast stitching
                                          • Insole & mid-sole brass screwed & stitched
                                          • Double leather sole
                                          • Stacked leather heel with rubber top piece
                                          • No toe puff
                                          • Soft suede leather half bellow tongue
                                          • Thick brown leather lace

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • ChrisC
                                            Chris
                                            Raw and Unwashed
                                            Joined:

                                            I like the color a lot.  I like the boots a lot, in fact.  I'd add a commando sole, but that's just me…

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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