Making Boots

[FOXY]

What kind of construction?
Doesn't look like your average Goodyear + Welted…

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[Hemi]

This is the construction process:

Leather upper pressed
Sew uppers
Form the upper over the last. Pull the front up by hand and check the eyelets etc are even side to side then back onto the last jack
Pull the sides in by hand and attach the sides and waste
Put into the heel laster to make nice clean heel bed
Toe last by hand
Add steel shank
Brass screw wire the leather runner
Double cement leather runner & sole
Trim the leather sole
Polish the leather sole

This is a diagram of the boots my guy makes but with a commando sole.

I think it is the same or similar technique that William Lennon uses?  I've also heard there are only 5 of these old Brass Screw Machines left in the World, but I could be wrong?

[Graeme]

Nice boots Hemi.

It does sound like the same construction that William Lennon uses. According to Loomstate:

The world population of these machines numbers five; two here, one in Cornwall, one in Australia and one in New Zealand.

Looks like your friend's is the fifth in that list.

[Moonshine]

Great looking boot and awesome backstory!  We need some pics of the cobbler and his shop!  What's the price (in USD)?  I think the cobbler's wallet is going to get fatter after seeing these boots!

[natehate]

those are dope and moonshine might be right

[supersalami]

wow! need more info on these price wise and shipping availability soon!!

[Hemi]

I'll have more details shortly but here are some pictures of the workshop in the meantime.  I was concentrating so hard on watching the process that I didn't take many photo's so I'll get better one's on my next visit.

[Moonshine]

Awesome!  Real deal stuff there!  I like this guy and I don't even know him!

[Chris]

Is that a row of Landis 5 stitchers?  Wow, that's nice.

[joesaintjohn]

I still wanna find out some price info…

[Hemi]

Do you guys prefer a heavier weight leather tongue or a lighter one.  I'm using a lighter one at the moment because its more comfortable and the only option is to use the same leather as the upper which is quite a bit thicker but I'm not sure how it would feel?

[zhivago]

it is nice for comfort but wear wise keeping things uniform has its advantages too. All that aside, I really like to look of these Hemi, excited to see how this continues.

[Chris]

Depends; is it a gusseted or non-gusseted tongue?  If it's an ordinary tongue, then full thickness leather would be my opinion.  However, the additional layers of a gusseted tongue warrant a thinner leather, I think.

[Hemi]

Thanks guy's… I've been working on this for a while, its real labour of love.

The boots have a half gusset tongue so I think the leather we used for the upper will be too thick.  I might see if I can get a slightly heavier leather or I 'll have to go with the lighter weight one which still looks good and does the job.

[Giles]

My Viberg service boots have a full gussetted  tongue and it is made from what feels like calf, it is perfect….

[Chris]

I agree completely on the Viberg service boot tongue.

[Hemi]

Here's another sample boot I'm working on…  I'm not sure about the colour?

Features:

• Thick yellow reverse kip suede leather upper sourced from the Tasman Tannery in Whanganui, New Zealand
• Brass eyelets & white contrast stitching
• Insole & mid-sole brass screwed & stitched
• Double leather sole
• Stacked leather heel with rubber top piece
• No toe puff
• Soft suede leather half bellow tongue
• Thick brown leather lace

[Chris]

I like the color a lot.  I like the boots a lot, in fact.  I'd add a commando sole, but that's just me…

[veloaudio]

Wow, just found this thread.  Amazing work Hemi.

[injunjack]

• 1 on commando sole, but there is something odd lookin how the heel is placed, or "shoe" is on sole. If you understand what I'm trying to say…
  Maybe it's just me...