Best Iron Heart Models for Western Wear?
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@jat Thanks that's helpful. Yeah my 666s are a bit low for tucking in.
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If the measurements will allow it @shelbington a sized-down 888 or 1955 can also be a good skinny high-rise option.
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@shelbington - as a Fort Worth Native and Iron Heart lover, I've been waiting for someone to ask this for 15 years haha.
The level of 'Western" you want to do is up to you, but here is my breakdown. I am a Western Wear junkie, so have tried nearly all of the brands of stuff lol.
Here is my western wear to IH cut conversion:
CINCH Bronze Label - 555
CINCH Silver Label - 666
Cinch White Lebel - 634 or even 1955
CINCH Green Label - 888Ariat M7 Slim Boot - this is a 634S All the Way.
Wrangler Cowboy Cut (13mwz) - 888 or 1955
Wrangler Cowboy SLIM Cut - Sized down 888 or a 555 (Depending on your waist size, as the 555 can get rather small on the hem if you are sub waist 33/34).
Wrangler George Straight Classic Cut - 1955Wrangler "Shrink to Fit Western Shirt" - Go with an IHSH-13 or even of of the 7-9oz Denim Western Shirts. My Wrangler shirts are a M, and I would wear an XL in IH to get the same realxed look with broad shoulders and taper. This is a size up from what I would take to get the more trim Levis Western shirt cut (Also in M) I would wear a Large in IH.
Start with a pair of 14 or 16 oz jeans in (Like others have said) the 634S or 888 Cut. The 888 Cut is going to match a Wrangler 13mwz cut very closely with the rise and the leg opening, and in stock length, they will stack well with roper or heeled cowboy boots. I tend to wear a wider leg opening (Like a CINCH White Label if you are into western wear) with my square toe boots, and go more trim (Like a 777 or 888) on the leg opening with ropers or snip toes / round toes. My preferred boot style is a cutter toe, so kinda in between a classic snip and a round toe. I believe Lucchese calls this their 7-Toe. The 634S leg opening (Around 8.5-9 in most moderate sizes) sites very well with this boot shape.
The 14oz denim holds starch (By the STIFF-IT leather scent strach and a good spray bottle to mix it off Amazon or Cavenders) really well if you are wanting to have a crisp line, and if you fit the 634s trim in the top block, they will pinch in to the knees and provide a slight boot-cut look.
One of my favorite looks like a pair of Khaki Wrangler Slim Cowboy Cuts, and a good alternative would be the Duck 634 or even some Duck 888s.
Since I love a good crease line, if you are going after that look, the 14oz Overdye Jeans not only crease well, but will give you a fade line super fast for that kinda 90s honky-tonk vibe.
For Shirts, find a IHSH-13 in blue or black, and size it long enough to tuck in - Probably 1/2 to 1 size larger than you would take for casual wear. Personally, I would upgrade the snaps to mother of pearl, but I'm a sucker for those.
If you want a great belt that can look beefy by itself or take a buckle, the IHB-01 is a brilliant choice. If you want to go a bit crazy, you can look into the HTC (Hollywood trading company) belts with have a lot or embellishment on them. Self Edge has a sick one coming out on Friday for their anniversary which I believe has an exotic skin inlay.
If you want to go non-denim on denim, the brownduck Type 3 is the perfect light outwear, and if you want more of the Colorado cowboy look for the winter, snag an N-1 for the more "Overland Trading Co" "Aspen" Cowboy appearance.
I tend to look like a Fort Worth banker (My cousins who live in Tyler say I dress like a Texas Ranger lol) most days in the office - Jeans + Button up or western Shirt, Lucchese Sport Coat, and if it's fall, a felt hat - I have American's, Lucchese and Stetson, and will say an American 20x or even 40x is the value play. Anything above is going to be super luxury, and I actually prefer the build on my Lucchese hat once you get above a grand.
Sorry for so much info, but figured it might help!
Some of My Old Pics for reference (Mind you I'm wearing 36s and 38s in these, so if you are smaller, everything will look more trim):

These are the Ariat M7 Jean - I'd go 634 for the same mid rise, long stacked look.
These are the CINCH Bronze Label - a 555 would offer the same tapered leg, and high rise fitted top block.
I'm wearing the Wrangler Slim Cowboy cut in this pic - I'd go IH-721 or IH-727 Chino or the 634 or 888 cut in Brown duck to replace but keep the same vibe.
I'm wearing the CINCH White Label here, so a more "relaxed" fitting 634 would be similar, as well as the 1955 cut. -
@Appfaff May you live to be a thousand years old sir!
This is exactly the type of insider knowledge I was looking for. I only help your generosity helps other transplants assimilate. It's definitely the Wrangler Slim Cowboy cut I keep seeing everywhere.
I'm still working up the nerve to get my first pair of cowboy boots and hat without feeling like a total poseur. Seems like Tecovas is the way to go for Californian refugees like myself. Signals that I'm a hipster and not pretending to be a real cowboy.

Thanks again.
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@shelbington - I have 5 pairs of Tecovas, so I can stand by the products and agree the value - price is good. Easiest "entry" is the Zip Side boot - no stitching on the forefoot, so it feels less western, but you get the silhouette. If you had to buy one boot to get started though, I would spend the little extra and get their roper boot or standard R (Round) Toe in their light brown ostrich. It's easily the most wearable color (I even wear mine with black) is more dressed up for office wear, and immediately gets positive comments.
I will also say, don't discount getting an entry level Lucchese Roper (They call it the Sunset Roper Boot, I think it's $500-600 as opposed to the Tecovas at $300-375) - the comfort is higher than the Tecvoas, and the silhouette is a bit more "shaped" as opposed to very uniform. It will be closer to $700-800 for ostrich or lizard at Lucheese, and the Tecovas would be $400-475 range for exotics.
For the hat, go to a good hat store, get yourself a 6x American hat and have them trim the brim down to a 3.75 to 4-inch brim. Do a low cattleman crease and low taco brim with a shallow dip. That's how My hats are shaped, although mine are all 4 1/4 brims (I actually shape my own hats at home). For a cheaper option, Resistol (Owned by Stetson) does an unpressed 6x hat which you can have the same thing done, stetson only sells their higher end hats non-precreased. Stetson hats are not hard either, and I like my felt's super stiff.
Good Luck!
Adam
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@shelbington SE is actually in Austin. and the several times i’ve been there they’ve had a more than decent collection of IH. though i fall into the 40-42 category.
back on target…. i wear boots with all the IH cuts but 777. I dont own 888s.
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@Appfaff
Excellent, informative breakdown. -
You are welcome @Heritage_Guy !!
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The thread I’ve been looking for all of my (IH) life! Ok… more like recently. Love it all the same.
@Appfaff great break down. Just what I’ve been after. In fact, I write this as I wear a black pair of Wrangler 13 MWZ and Lucchese blue sueded hornback caiman boots, on my way home from El Paso.
On the 888 and 13 MWZ comparison, I would not have likened those two together. While the 888 is a glorious jean with a high rise, I find the taper too much for my western preference. While the hem fits over boots, it just doesn’t jive with what I’m used to. I think this means I need to give it another look.
I tried on some Cinch White Labels at Starr yesterday. Good value and spot on the more relaxed fit.
I’m absolutely keeping your notes on hats. That’s my next frontier. My Red Bull KTM is a good look, but isn’t quite up to the level of a proper U.S. hat.
Thanks again for the awesome detail here!
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Your welcome @Bobcat-Sig - I will add, the 888 size by determine the level of how close they are to the standard cowboy cut. My size 36 13mwz were obscenely close in shape to my size 36 21oz 888-od,
But the wranglers will keep their leg opening more open than the 888s will as you go down in sizes.Feel free to hit me up
About hats - one of my favorite topics haha
