Belt over the patch or under the patch? Which do you prefer and why?
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Definitely under.
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My belief is that there is nothing to be gained from using your thick animal skin patch as a sixth belt loop unless you have a huge waist and need the extra support for your belt. In all probability, the combination of the super thick patch and the super thick belt will only result in the stitches eventually ripping/breaking, or the patch deforming. Putting your belt over-top of the patch however, provides some spectacular evo:
This is a similar situation to the cuffing debate. Cuffing inevitably destroys your denim much faster than hemming to the proper length, regardless of your aesthetic preference. But you people do what you want. It's more money for H, G & P.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think there has ever been an issue with the stitching coming loose due to belt use.
My SR patch is unstiching itself so I riveted it.
Snagged on the corner of a table (while wearing a belt underneath the patch)
The patch. The problem with the patch is that unlike a lot of other brands, the stitching is just at the top and the bottom (rather than all the way around), so that you can get your belt through the patch if that is what you like to do. That coupled with the thickness of the leather imposes great stress at the 4 corners.
The Polycotton that we sew the 634S with is and has alwayts been super strong.
On some jeans where we are aiming for a more vintage look (666 and 634SR) we use cotton. This does tend to give up quicker than Polycotton, but that's part of the vintage look we are trying to recreate.
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Always Under. Never understood people who wore it over when they had the option to put it under. ROY Patches piss me off. Why put in all that work on the patch to have it covered with something?
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Personally, when I tuck a shirt in I go over the patch.. otherwise it seems too gaudy. When things aren't tucked in I go over - it may not be seen often but when that awesome patch 'peeks out'… I haven't seen it personally but I'm assuming it looks sweet.
Not really concerned about durability because even if there are issues, I do happen to know how to use a needle and thread.
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Under-it just makes sense. And my belt is so damn thick it would require more effort to put it over, it just slides under naturally
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Hmmm Interesting..
I figured all patches were sewn on with poly cotton thread.. It usually being a white thread and all.
Is that not the case? I've had 666S' and it sure did not look like cotton stitching on the patch..
Giles, could you clarify?
We probably (though I am not 100% sure) now use Polycotton. Haraki and I got really pissed off that the stitching on the patches were occasionally failing. Haraki just told me he was going to fix it. I think he did.
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Absolutely only wear it under the patch.
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Under of course. Wear with pride…letting weaker denims know
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why would anyone even wear it over? isn't the thick leather patch meant to be shown? and btw i don't even remove my belt … ever ... it's easier to just leave it on the jeans and under to keep it safe and secure.
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love this thread, great job Deebo.