Samurai Jeans
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@guiltyparty thanks Champ, I’m debating medium or large.
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Anyone who is familiar with the 0511 cut, which IH model would you say is most similar, if any? Am thinking possibly the 633 Self Edge exclusive, and maybe the 888?
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@Jam_Shar 511 and 710 are the two Samurai cuts that I buy. I'd say off the top of my head it is comparable to the 555 and 777. 555 is my usual IH cut but I also own a pair of the 777. The 511 usually has a lower rise which makes me think it is closer to the 777 than 555 but I think both cuts have similarities to the 511.
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My first Samurai flannel and it’s a doozy.
This heavy weight twill flannel is indigo roped dyed and uses denim warp threads with specially treated coloured weft that develops natural fading over time. It should age nicely as the rope dyed yarns fade to show its white core. Another unique feature is the nut buttons are indigo dyed too so it will too fade and reveal some of its original colour, which I’m assuming is brown. Other cool details include: side gussets, triple needle construction and chain-stitch run off, reinforced elbows, fabric lined inner cuffs, and hand dyed indigo threads are used throughout.
Construction is top notch and although it’s a work shirt flannel, it does run on the slim side.
I am not sure of its fabric weight but I’d probably guess 12-15oz.
The fabric is soft but feels durable because of the thick twill used. I do wish it was brushed on the inside like the Iron Heart UHF or UES Extra Heavy flannel. I also noticed the pattern on the breast pockets isn’t perfectly symmetrical like they are on my Iron Heart Flannels.
Overall, I’d put it right up there with my Iron Heart UHF and UES Extra Heavy. For me, it deservingly forms the trifecta of Japanese flannels.
IG: @stitchdown.shell
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heck yeah!
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@Nobunaga Thanks. I own the 19oz 511's (newer model) and the rise is pretty big/and roomy in top block, which is why I was thinking 633 and 888. Reality is I maybe just bought them in too big of a size!
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The Samurai 511 cut is closer to the 777 than any other IH cut. Having said that,is close to nothing that IH makes. The rise is low and similar to the 777 but the taper is more aggressive that a 777 resulting in a smaller knee and hem measurements. If you are familiar with the PBJ 013 cut they are more similar to that than anything IH makes.
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Do Samurai offer something like an 888 top block with 634 leg opening?
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The closer to 888is the 211. Its a relaxed taper. They do make straight cuts with high rise but I will say they are closer to iH 1955 than 888
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Agree with @yannis, and was going to say the same: Samurai 511 is closest to the 777, but not particularly close. Nice cut though, and for a (somewhat) similar fit I'd suggest sizing up in the Samurai compared to the IH.
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@m4xime. Any Samurai cut with 500, 0500, 5000 is usually a straight cut. You may find one with 888 kind of rise and a 634 leg. The 3000 is the widest cut they make. Its wider than anything IH currently offers.
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@stitchdown.shell Nice. Just ordered the pink from Okayama in Medium. Hoping I’m not inbetween sizes!
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@yannis - what’s the closest they do to the 555?
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@Crispy-Heron. I think the 520 and the 211 will be the one's. The 211 is more relaxed than the 555 with a roomier thigh but still tapers. The 555 is unique in the sense that its fitted though the leg and knee but the leg opening is not that small. Look at the 520 thats the closet I know.
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634 is wider than the 3000 in the waist and thigh, and 0.1mm narrower in the hem
@yannis said in Samurai Jeans:
@m4xime. The 3000 is the widest cut they make. Its wider than anything IH currently offers.
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@yannis
There are variations in every run, but by the book, the 634 are wider in the waist and thigh, and the basically the same in the hem for a given size.I also have both 634 and 3000. Mine feel very similar, but if forced, I would have to say the 634 feel bigger. My 634 seat feels slightly more roomy and the hem feels wider.
