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Measuring- Questions, Answers and Comments

Measuring - The Iron Heart Method
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  • J
    JunkPants
    Haraki san Student
    @goosehd
    Joined: 20 Nov 2022

    @goosehd I think part of it could be the: "I've been a size 32 since college and I'm still the same size goddamnit!"

    Not taking into account that the tag size 32 they are using now is a vanity sized stretch denim, which started out at 33.5 inches in the waist and is now at 37 inches.

    Years back I had pair of jeans (can't remember the brand) in size 33 with some stretch to the material. After a while it was falling off me and I decided to measure it, and the waist was 38 inches!

    last edited by 9 Apr 2024, 14:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
    • F
      FlavourFade
      Raw and Unwashed
      @Salted Racer
      Joined: 15 Jan 2024

      @Salted-Racer said in Measuring- Questions, Answers and Comments:

      Damn man same here !!!
      I went through similar weight lost and had like block or something. I’d Wear a size M even if it looked like shit cuz it was a medium lol
      @FlavourFade

      Absolutely! When I startest buying japanese made selvedge denim I made a lot of mistakes because nobody tells you. Reaching out to customers before sending the item is something that happened to me exactly one time with Statement Store in munich.

      Also I sometimes have trouble with sizing because I have some lose skin left from weight loss and when I sit down shirts become uncomfortable when too tight. So I prefer a loser fit to avoid that.

      Insta: free_the_fades

      wtb:
      The Pale Rider XXL

      last edited by 10 Apr 2024, 12:11 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
      • G
        Giles
        IHUK Crew
        Joined: 22 Sept 2009

        Recently there have been a number of questions and "concerns" about posted measurements of our gear, both on ours and our retailers websites.

        Firstly, we measure the way we do because it is the way that the Japanese clothing business measures. In the early days, I measured like some of our then retailers, this resulted in us sending in sample requests to Haraki and when we got the first sample back, they were always "wrong". So on a visit to Japan with @Madame-Buttonfly we asked Tom san to show us the way that she and the factories measure. So now when we send in a sample request we are giving Tom san measurements that she can send straight to the workshop.

        I don't know why other western purveyors of Japanese Amekaji clothing measure differently to that, but they do. I suspect it is just a result of some early adopter doing it a particular way, and that just became the "norm".

        So there is likely to be a perceived variance in published sizing between us and some of our retailers. For most of them, and also Iron Heart Japan, measuring accurately is not so critical as it is for us. If you are selling something in a shop, the punter can try the stuff on and cares not what the measurements are but only whether it looks good in the mirror.

        We always remeasure when a new production run is received, I have no idea whether all our retailers do this or not.

        If I lived my life again, I would try and insist that our retailers measured Iron Heart like us and published the same measurement tables, but I did not and we are where we are.

        But please understand that our measurements are probably the most accurate you will find, they have to be, we basically only do online. The only problem you have is not knowing which batch a retailer holds.

        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

        last edited by 3 May 2024, 17:03 D 1 Reply Last reply 5 May 2024, 08:48 Reply Quote 2
        • M
          motojobobo
          啓蒙家
          Joined: 22 Aug 2015

          This clarity, simplicity and upfront earnestness is a BIG reason why I love IH!

          The journey is the objective.

          last edited by 4 May 2024, 19:58 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
          • ?
            A Former User
            Joined:

            And the reason why 99,9% of the time i only order at IHUK.

            last edited by 5 May 2024, 04:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • D
              DrPat
              Iron Heart Deity
              @Giles
              Joined: 9 Oct 2009

              @Giles I really appreciate the accuracy of IH's measurements.

              How do you account for the variance among products of the same size, especially those that are overdyed?

              Many years ago, I tried on all the overdyed zip up hoodies while in Gosport and there were massive differences in how much they shrank.

              last edited by 5 May 2024, 08:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • G
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                We measure at least 2 of each tag size and take the average. If we find extreme variance we measure more. If we know we have a product with large variances in sizing, we reach out to the customer to discuss when they order.....

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                last edited by 5 May 2024, 09:07 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                • F
                  FlavourFade
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined: 15 Jan 2024

                  I hope my question is correct in this thread. It's a question that sounds very dumb in my head but I am not sure about this: when I found my sweetspot in how long I like to have my favourite cut hemmed, can I go with the length on other cuts and fabrics too or not? For example my 555 19L is at a length of 30.5 inch and fits perfect for my taste, if I buy lets say an 888s-21 would I go with the same length ?

                  Insta: free_the_fades

                  wtb:
                  The Pale Rider XXL

                  last edited by 7 Mar 2025, 17:47 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • G
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                    Not dumb.

                    Possibly (I do), but the rise has some impact on the leg length you may need. If you intend to have the same distance between your nuts and the centre crotch seam yes, but if you are going to drop the seam, then you'll need a shorter leg length.....

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                    last edited by 7 Mar 2025, 18:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                    • G
                      Graham
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined: 8 May 2014

                      Not dumb at all, and if one is going from one cut to a new cut with a different rise, I would always suggest to take them at stock length and then you can play around at home with turning it up to a length that works for you and then send them back to us for hemming. We would always get these turned around super quick so you are not without your new denim for more than a few days.

                      Of course, if you are double cuffing or similar you really dont need to be too exact with changing the length as it may just mean a slightly smaller or bigger cuff and if you are double cuffing that extra or less length is divided into two cuffs making the difference seem super negligible but if you are not cuffing at all I would for sure play around at home and send back for the perfect length.

                      @gmac_ironheart
                      🤘

                      last edited by 7 Mar 2025, 20:05 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
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