21oz Shinayaka Selvedge Denim
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IH-555-SST REVIEW (EDIT)
Iron Heart’s super slim tapered cut in 21oz indigo selvedge denim with a potentially controversial bit of stretch. But will it be rugged? Will there be fades? Will it be “Iron”?
The IH-555-SST come out of the bag hard, shiny and new. It´s the same newness that you get when you buy a good wrench or hammer from the hardware store. Just like those tools, the design of five pocket jeans such as these has not changed dramatically from the way they were formed decades ago. Just like a new hammer you can see the stubborn purposeful design. Just like a new hammer, they are fresh from the factory, ready to go, but updated to make them a little better, a little more effective, or indeed a little more comfortable to use.
When new the IH-555-SST have a smooth, even hand, with a slight sheen to it. They are hefty and combine softness and resistance. The contrasting constructional stitching is clearly effective, the engineering of the yoke, pockets, button fly, waistband and crotch, is robust, and comes with all the hardware owners of IH jeans are used to. In short, anyone who has previously unpacked a new pair of IH jeans made from the 21oz flagship denim will be unsurprised at what they find. The appearance of the Shinayaka denim differs very little from a pair of 100% cotton 21oz. Both have a dark indigo color, with the weft showing slightly darker on the Shinayaka.
Of course, the major difference here is the addition of 2% polyurethane to the weave. At first you wouldn’t know it was there. There is nothing about the feel or appearance of the jean that suggests anything other than 100% cotton. It is only when you take the material in two hands and tug it that you can notice the effect. It moves, just a little more than regular 21oz does. It is very natural and returns to form quickly. It feels the same when putting them on. The jeans sit trim everywhere but where you would expect discomfort the denim flexes just enough to avoid it. The denim just returns to shape after wear, although after weeks of regular wear I did notice the stretch becoming a little more permanent, just nowhere near the standard 21oz.
When it comes to evo and fading, one noticeable difference with the “Shinayaka” denim was that creases were slower to form. They would appear with wear and drop out overnight. After much wear the creases have developed and now no longer drop out. It just took a lot more time. The fade is the same as with the standard 21oz. A long fade through navy, to electric blue, them a paler blue. I’ve reached white on a couple of exposed points. The 21oz is a slow but beautiful fader and here the Shinayaka is going to do precisely the same thing.
Now, after 100 days of wear and two washes, the stretch isn’t as noticeable anymore. After the first wash the denim returned to the same dimensions as when new. However, after the second wash the polyurethane seems to have lost a little of its “memory” and the jeans seem more broken in. The fabric still moves and flexes with me, stretching a little so they are very comfortable and easy to wear still. There is still enough stretch to avoid knee bags and sagging out at the rear of the top block. In other words, this denim keeps its shape very well indeed, at least after 100 wears.
The 21oz is the most comfortable IH denim out of the bag and it isn’t difficult to break in, so who needs 21oz stretch denim? People who don’t want minimal discomfort or break-in, for one. People who want their denim to retain its shape longer, people who are between sizes, or find some measurements unsuitable on some cuts will all find these jeans easy to size and easy to wear. These jeans will fit different body shapes easier and are probably easier to look good in.
For me, the Shinayaka denim is a game changer because it will allow me to wear cuts I normally wouldn’t or couldn’t. The 555 and the 666 are the ones I normally struggle with the most and it makes me happy that soon I can wear both those cuts with ease, and I can also do so while completing any kind of activity in them. I’ve worn these jeans doing construction work for 20 days, something unthinkable in a regular pair of 21oz 555’s. They have also taken nail heads, saw blades and lots of contact with abrasive surfaces, which have left their mark, but not damaged the fabric. So, these jeans are without a doubt Iron Heart in every way. Tough, rugged, over-engineered while also being that much comfier.
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Wow! Great write up Reuben, at least the edited version [emoji8] I have one question after reading… can you see with the naked eye any of the polyurethane thread at the points where the denim has worn? It would be cool to see some macro shots of any abrasions on your pair.
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can you see with the naked eye any of the polyurethane thread at the points where the denim has worn?
No sir, you cannot. It just looks exactly like worn 21oz in 100% cotton. Here are iPhone shots of the seam at the crotch, a worn panel on the back of the top block near the crotch, and an abrasion from a nail head on front of the hip:
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That’s so awesome! Thanks for the quick pics.
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Tough stuff ???
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Excellent writeup @neph93 !
I think Shinayaka denim will be especially appropriate for motorcycle use where both upper and lower legs are folded at anywhere between 45-90 degrees (dependent on type of bike) for extended periods of time. This fabric should allow use of slim cuts while maintaining superior comfort on bikes. -
This fabric should allow use of slim cuts while maintaining superior comfort on bikes.
Exactly as intended. While I haven't straddled a bike in these jeans, I can see them doing the job with ease.
Not to mention how totally Badass you’ll look ,wearing these jeans,when you get off the bike.
Not going to argue with that
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Have you come to any personal conclusion on which types of footwear look best with these?
That is more a question of cut and hemming, than fabric I think. Wearing engineers with the 555 is touch and go for me. If these were hemmed 4-5” shorter then I’d be happy wearing Wesco’s with the MP toe. As it is there is so much stacking it looks a bit off.
With cuffs or all the stacking, they look great with sneakers and lace up boots. I’m really looking forward to the measurements of the 666. If they work, I’ll be wearing them with Boss for sure.
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@neph93 – Crushed it with the review. Thank you for this man
I feel like this is a choice based in utilitarianism and function, both hallmarks of IH design. What a great step forward for the product. -
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Exactly. Will it work for everyone? Of course not, but then bootcuts don't, 25oz doesn't, black denim doesn't, non-selvedge denim doesn't…....
I would never buy or wear black denim
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I feel like this is a choice based in utilitarianism and function, both hallmarks of IH design.
You’ve hit the nail on the head there mate. This isn’t about selling out or showing contempt for tradition. It’s about increased application
Thanks for the kind words.
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And just like that, I’m sold.
It is the most notable feature, now at the 100 wears/two washes mark. I’m pretty impressed.
And thank you.
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Fantastic write up my man. Extremely informative and very well articulated. And the icing on the cake is that i can finally entertain the thought of owening a pair of 666's which is completely out of the question for me right now.
