IH-555S-21od - 21oz Selvedge Denim Slim Jeans - Indigo Overdyed Black
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Thanks to @neph93 for the clarity. In better denim worlds those millimeters can make all the difference but there's more because the fabric gets interesting not only for the weaves but the dyes too. And then every pair has its own life. It's hard to believe all that until you step in and two pair are enough to see the differences. I think I make choices in concentric circles, outside: cut, fabric (weave and weight), dye, then size.
Tres cool.Imo the 555 is IH's sensible super slim but out there in Jean World it strikes me as the cut closest to "mainstream", if that makes any sense. Nearly all the IH cuts work for me but if I could have only two, it would be one of the slims (555/777) and 634 for the contrast and different look.
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Apart from these observations, was just keen to understand from the group, are there any other differences that I should be aware of?
Hi.
All jeans with the 555 lot number are of the same cut. There will be minor variations between iterations because different denims sew up slightly differently and because these are made by hooman beans on largely mechanical machines. But «555» is the cut, and all 555’s share more or less the same dimensions and proportions.
The 555-03 is made of Iron Heart’s SBG denim. It is a sulphur dyed version of IH 21oz denim, that will fade through grey to white with quite a lot of contrast. The IH-555-od is basically a pair of IH-555-01 that have been dyed again in black fugitive dye. They present as black with a hint of dark blue to start, and fade very differently. The black, and indigo will fade in that order, with grey’s and blues, giving a wonderful 3D effect.
If you look past the cut, the weight and that they are both nominally black, the two iterations are actually very different in terms of hand, texture, colour, draping, initial comfort, stretch potentional (as well as shrinkage). Not least, the jeans will diverge even more with wear as they age and evolve very differently.
Thanks neph93 - that makes sense. My current thinking is 555-01od might be a better choice for now, simply because it's my first IH/heavy denim, so taking out the first soak/shrinkage variable can help with sizing. Two, I've read that the 555-01od is a softer denim, again this provides some tolerance and helps if I size wrong in the first place.
Thanks guys - any other feedback much welcomed.
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Thanks neph93 - that makes sense. My current thinking is 555-01od might be a better choice for now, simply because it's my first IH/heavy denim, so taking out the first soak/shrinkage variable can help with sizing. Two, I've read that the 555-01od is a softer denim, again this provides some tolerance and helps if I size wrong in the first place.
The guys at IHHQ are pretty great at advising on size, so I’m sure they would see you right with the SBG, but sizing the OD is easier for sure. It will stretch meaningfully in thw waist though, so do bare that in mind.
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Imo the 555 is IH's sensible super slim but out there in Jean World it strikes me as the cut closest to "mainstream", if that makes any sense. Nearly all the IH cuts work for me but if I could have only two, it would be one of the slims (555/777) and 634 for the contrast and different look.
Quite true - I have Momotaro, Pure Blue Japan and Oni jeans - pretty much all of them have a smaller hem. I feel the 555 is a lot more classic though.
It might also have something to do with the owner of IH International not being a fan of slim fit, I hear
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I'm a bit disappointed that I found the beginnings of a hole near my back pocket already. I'll get a picture posted later, it seems like it might be an odd spot for a hole to begin.
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Top corner, center of the jean. Kind of looks like some of weave has come undone.
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Hmmm… I’ll be interested to see the picture. If you think it is a fault you should get in touch with shop@ironheart.co.uk, or whichever retailer you purchased from if it wasn’t Gosport.
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Any issue should really be taken up in the first instance with where you bought the item from. If it was us and if it is a fault, we'll sort it immediately. If it was not us, and it is a fault, I hope that the retailer you bought it from, would do the same (if not, let us know). If it was us, and we don't consider it a fault, we'll let you know. But until we see a photo, we have no opinion.
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Purchased through ironheart, and I'll have a picture up asap. I don't think it's a major issue but I'd like some thoughts on it at the very least.
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Please send email with image to shop@ironheart.co.uk.
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Doesn't look bad, just in an odd place. -
It’s actually in a fairly predictable spot for wear, believe it or not. Those back pocket corners take a lot of abuse, and depending on the fit and fabric and how you wear them, they can show wear sooner or later, and that spot in the corner is the first place to go. The 21oz overdyed is an extremely soft and pliable fabric and because of that, it might wear through quicker in the most high stress areas (not stress in terms of external abuse, but stress in the fabric pulling away from the rivet and seam stitching of the pocket). Ironically, the softness and pliability makes it more durable in some ways (lack of sharp creasing, lack of friction caused holes), and less durable in others (easily stretched), compared to heavier denims. Case in point, my 21/23oz denim has holes from friction and sharp creases, but the back pockets are solid. And to show how different weight denims hold up to similar wear, my 18oz. denim has holes from all these sources of stress. Luckily, the back pocket holes have not increased in size considerably over the years, and honestly I’ve never worried about it. Certainly they are not as urgent a concern as holes near the crotch seam, which get bigger quickly.
21oz. OD: these have more than 7 years of wear and the holes in the pocket corners never got big enough to warrant repair. And as a testament to the softness and pliability of this denim, I have not had to repair them anywhere else either.
21/23oz: these were fixed in the crotch and hems twice over four years. Back pockets are solid
18oz: these have been easier to wear through than the heavier denims, but they still fade beautifully
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And it sometimes happens on shirt pockets too. It’s the price we pay to wear the most rugged fabrics sewn up with the toughest threads and the thickest seams. Sometimes the toughness is self-destructive. Lighter fabrics don’t know and can’t touch this level of rugged.
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My main issue is I've only owned them for four months. my theory is that the corner caught something wrong as I sat up or something.
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I understand the issue and your feelings, as I have the same issues on several of my own Iron Heart items. But it’s just regular wear and tear once you wear it for four months man. There are too many variables involved in diagnosing the cause and what’s to blame in my opinion. Don’t let it get you down. It’s an inconsequential battle scar at the moment, and shouldn’t get much bigger unless your wear patterns are creating that stress to begin with. Keep rocking them. The hole on my 21oz.OD pair in the same spot did not expand considerably over years of wear and washes. When you decide to repair, that area can be fixed with little consequence.
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@adam313 thanks for insights and pics, more the merrier. These have essentially been my only pair of jeans since I bought them. I've been trying to buy some 25oz to try but I'm pretty much in between a 36 and 38.
