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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    IH-301S

    Bottoms
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    • escanderAE
      escanderA
      Joined:

      Hi! Recently, by chance, I became the owner of practically new IH-301S, and was very surprised when I found that they do not have selvedge on the inside seam of the pant leg, but in other places it is present, I know that there is a part of the 301S with selvedge. for example, which were sold in the Self Edge store, I want to know more about this, since it turns out that these 301Ss, which I got, are of a very old release, and just lay somewhere for a very long time , can anyone share information ..?!

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • neph93N
        neph93
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        @escanderA:

        Hi! Recently, by chance, I became the owner of practically new IH-301S, and was very surprised when I found that they do not have selvedge on the inside seam of the pant leg, but in other places it is present, I know that there is a part of the 301S with selvedge. for example, which were sold in the Self Edge store, I want to know more about this, since it turns out that these 301Ss, which I got, are of a very old release, and just lay somewhere for a very long time , can anyone share information ..?!

        The 301S was the first tapered cut offered by IH and was exclusive to Self Edge stores in the US. To achieve the taper Haraki-san felt the simplest method was to cut the taper into the outside hem. This removed the selfedge ID.

        When they went on sale many «denimheads» reacted negatively to the lack of the selfedge ID. As a result Haraki-san was asked to find a way to make the jean which retained the selfedge ID. He did so, and later runs have it.

        It sounds like your pair is deadstock from the first run. A very rare piece of IH history. I’d love to hear more about where and how you got them.

        “Some of those that work forces
        Are the same that burn crosses”

        • Virginia Woolf
        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • GilesG
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined:

          Actually, the 301S was in production for a few years until we re-engineered them to utilise the selvedge ID on the outseam…..

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • escanderAE
            escanderA
            Joined:

            Thank you for the answer that clarified this question, I bought these 301s a month ago at a Japanese auction, I love the taper, this is my favorite style, so I immediately bought them for my other Iron Hearts, a little later I will post their photos.

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • henry_davidH
              henry_david
              Joined:

              @neph93 – Yup, my IH-301S also had the selvedge ID cut off. I happened to snag them in May of 2011 from SESF. Would love to see some pics of your new-to-you jeans, @escanderA!

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • escanderAE
                escanderA
                Joined:

                Here are photos of these 301s ..




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                • S
                  sabergirl
                  見習いボス
                  Joined:

                  Since these have selvedge at the fly, these are the newer ones. The OG 301 have no selvedge ID in evidence.

                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • escanderAE
                    escanderA
                    Joined:

                    @henry_david:

                    @neph93 – Yup, my IH-301S also had the selvedge ID cut off. I happened to snag them in May of 2011 from SESF. Would love to see some pics of your new-to-you jeans, @escanderA!

                    To be honest, I was very surprised when I found this item at a Japanese auction, and immediately wanted to buy it immediately!

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • escanderAE
                      escanderA
                      Joined:

                      @sabergirl:

                      Since these have selvedge at the fly, these are the newer ones. The OG 301 have no selvedge ID in evidence.

                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                      I wonder what is the approximate release period..?!

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • henry_davidH
                        henry_david
                        Joined:

                        @sabergirl – When did the selvedge ID start getting used at the fly? IIRC mine had the ID there, but no longer have them to check.

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                        • S
                          sabergirl
                          見習いボス
                          Joined:

                          I would guess c.2010 or ‘11 - present. 301 was released in like ‘08 or 09, and for the first year or 2 had no selvedge ID at all.

                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • henry_davidH
                            henry_david
                            Joined:

                            Ah okay. Then I believe mine were v2 with the ID at the fly but still built without the ID line elsewhere. I know that the cotton used was a Zimbabwe cotton, too.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • AppfaffA
                              Appfaff
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              I have the most recent version of the 21oz and they have selvedge in both the fly and inseam.

                              I would agree with @sabergirl that these are a V2 release, where as V1 was done in Superblack and 21oz, and both had overlocked seams throughout.

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                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                We have not used Zimbabwean cotton for a long long time…..

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • escanderAE
                                  escanderA
                                  Joined:

                                  @Giles:

                                  We have not used Zimbabwean cotton for a long long time…..

                                  I think it was after 2012, I bought at this time 666S - 18oz, which were the last with such cotton ..?!

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • escanderAE
                                    escanderA
                                    Joined:

                                    I have a lot of respect for Zimbabwean cotton and it made me very happy in these 301S.., they are very pleasant to the body.

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • GilesG
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined:

                                      We have not used Zimbabwean cotton for a VERY long time.  Haraki did not tell me that he had changed the cotton because he felt it unimportant because the US cotton he was sourcing was effectively the same as Zimbabwean - no one (and I mean no one) noticed we had changed.  Because I did not know or notice, I did not tell anyone of the change, so some jeans were described as being made from Zimbabwean cotton for years after they were not.  If you bought jeans from Iron Heart in 2005-2008 then they may have been made from Zimbabwean cotton, otherwise, it's US.

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                      • henry_davidH
                                        henry_david
                                        Joined:

                                        @Giles – Ah okay. So by the time I got into IH, the switch had already been made but many retailers hadn't been told.

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                                        • escanderAE
                                          escanderA
                                          Joined:

                                          However, these 301S that I had are noticeably softer than all the others IH.., maybe a lower thread tension was used when weaving ..?!

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                                          • GilesG
                                            Giles
                                            IHUK Crew
                                            Joined:

                                            Correct, nor had they been told.  Classic lost in translation between Haraki and me…. 🙂

                                            What Haraki thinks important is very different from most people.

                                            G - Are these T-shirts loopwheel
                                            H - No idea, why?

                                            G - Is this cotton from Zimbabwe
                                            H - No, why.  It's the same spec, what's the issue?

                                            G - Why do the IH-301S's not have a selvedge outseam?
                                            H - Because it makes no difference to their functionality whether they do or not - the denim is the same either way

                                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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