IHSH-62-BLK - 12oz Wabash Western Shirt - Black
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Hmm… I have the same sort of stitching on other HD-shirts and the hem remains flat...
The „roll“ also extends the stitching and goes further up beyond the stitiching area...
Maybe the fibres get stretched in the stitching process and this causes them shrinking back and, thus, rolling up? -
I’ll chime in and say that happens on my Momotaro work shirt that is heavy weight as well. I just figured it is a function of the weight, besides it exposes some roping details that I like, so doesn’t bother me.
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I thought it was due to the twill weave, since I've only seen it happen on wabash and denim shirts, but that can't be right if it's occurring on your chambray shirts, too.
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Found a more general explanation in the web:
„ Roping is indicative of uneven feeding into the folder or even if the hem is turned by hand. If the hemmed edge is round rather than straight, roping is more common because the bottom of the hem edge is actually wider (longer) at the hem fold line than at the stitch line, causing the hem to flip up.“
Don‘t know if this applies to the IH manufacturing process but sounds sound to me…
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I thought it was due to the twill weave, since I've only seen it happen on wabash and denim shirts, but that can't be right if it's occurring on your chambray shirts, too.
It isn’t quite the same on the chambray. Less pronounced and happens at the seam rather than starting above it. That could be the difference twill makes.
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Took some quick photos this morning as I was getting ready for the day:
IHSH-62-IND:
IHSH-33-IND
IHSH-64 (Jersey knit)
IHSH-119 (5oz chambray)
IHSH-118 (5oz chambray)
IHSH-662-WHI
IHSH-178 (overdyed 18oz denim)
Shirts that do not have the turn-up include my flannels, (both UHF’s, IHSH-179 and 10oz flannels), and my wool mix IHSH-163’s.
Some shirts have the turn up at the back but not at the front (IHSH-165). Some that have the turn up also have heavy, 3D roping around the hem, but not all.
Based on this weight is not a factor, nor is twill alone affected. The stitch seems decisive, but fabric type may still play a role. How much of a role the tension of the stitch plays, is difficult to assess, but may explain the heavy 3D roping on some shirts but not others.
Thank you for letting me indulge my nerdiness [emoji1]
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Haraki has given me the explanation.
On a curved hem, like on most Iron Heart shirts, the length of seam allowance edge (brown) is longer than the length of the seam stitch (orange). This creates a tendency for the fabric to curl towards the longer side.
And, there are 3 thicknesses of fabric on the hem.
Given the thickness of the resulting seam, it is easier for the fabric to roll away from the bulky seam, than to roll towards the bulk.
It is something that can't be avoided, and the tendency to roll up is a direct function of the bulk and weight of the fabric. The heavier/bulkier the fabric and thus the seam, the more pronounced the roll outwards will be…
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Makes perfect sense. A matter of fairly straightforward physics.
The chambray’s despite being made of lightweight fabric, have a fairly meaningful seam and use a pretty solid gauge of cotton. The resulting seam is relatively fat compared to the very fine fabric.
Initially I was ambivalent about it, but I find I embrace it now. These are after all not dress shirts we are talking about. Nor are they intended as smart casual attire, although I accept they are used that way by many customers. I roll my sleeves up in just about every IH shirt I own and button and unbutton them multiple times through the day. I’m weekend casual in a work day, at best.
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I've added some additional info to my post above, and created a thread to discuss here:
https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=14305.msg643717#msg643717
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I’ve decided I need to do some research into this whole rolling hem issue… ordered my wabash black in large late last night and got a notification that it’ll be here Monday. MONDAY! Holy smokes, when I order things from SESF it takes a week, and that’s around a 100 miles away... you guys rock! I’m actually counting on some hem role and a bit of shrink to get it so that it fits less like a dress
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@Entropy:
I’ve decided I need to do some research into this whole rolling hem issue… ordered my wabash black in large late last night and got a notification that it’ll be here Monday. MONDAY! Holy smokes, when I order things from SESF it takes a week, and that’s around a 100 miles away... you guys rock! I’m actually counting on some hem role and a bit of shrink to get it so that it fits less like a dress
Well done, sir. Great shirt.
Shrink definitely obtainable with this fabric, but requires a hot wash.
The transatlantic shipping/delivery times that IHUK manage are pretty awesome.
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Customs issues in the USA are very rarely an issue for us.
- The personal import threshold is USD800. If we are shipping a higher value than that we split into multiple packages
- We ship to USA with a paperless commercial invoice, which means the receiving customs entity gets the commercial paperwork sent to them electronically so that they can process the entry before the physical package even leaves the UK. On the few occasions we have had to answer questions, we have normally done that before the physical shipment gets to the local US UPS depot.
I can count on the fingers of one hand the number of delays we have experienced due to customs issues in the 10 or so years we have been using UPS.
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- The personal import threshold is USD800. If we are shipping a higher value than that we split into multiple packages
" Multiple packages?
" I get excited when I get a SINGLE package.
Thats a good day when you get more than one
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@Entropy:
I’ve decided I need to do some research into this whole rolling hem issue… ordered my wabash black in large late last night and got a notification that it’ll be here Monday. MONDAY! Holy smokes, when I order things from SESF it takes a week, and that’s around a 100 miles away... you guys rock! I’m actually counting on some hem role and a bit of shrink to get it so that it fits less like a dress
Well done, sir. Great shirt.
Shrink definitely obtainable with this fabric, but requires a hot wash.
The transatlantic shipping/delivery times that IHUK manage are pretty awesome.
Amen to that.^ I've been spoiled by IH delivery times to the States. Routinely faster than shipping times within the US.
