IH-634S - 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans - Indigo
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Sorry if this has been discussed before, but my size 36” 634’s have developed a lot of excess material along the outside edge of the thighs. These ‘wings’ have been getting gradually worse this past year to the point now where I am no longer wearing them because of the way they look. Just wondered if this was common, if they could be altered at all or if not then is there a better cut that would suit my frame more?
Current measurements: waist:18”, front rise:11”, back rise:16”, leg opening (level with crutch seam):13 3/4”, leg width at the knee:10”, hem:9 1/4”. Any advice much appreciated.
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They do look a little big on you. I wouldn’t say this was a common issue. All denim stretches with use but we’re talking an inch or so in the waist, half an inch in the thigh etc. I’d suggest this was a combination of stretch and weightloss. Have you lost weight?
I suggest you have a look at the 888 or 666 cuts. The 888 is regular fitting but tapered. The 666 is slim and straight.
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neph93 - Many thanks for the advice, yes I have lost some weight recently. Do you think the jeans would recover, if I gave them a hot wash, or is this amount of stretch permanent once it happens? I’m assuming having the having the excess material removed and the seams re sewn would either not be possible or just too costly? Thanks again for the help.
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I've had my 634s taken in for precisely that reason,and it worked out great,only cost $50. First time I neglected to tell them which seam to take up the slack from and they removed the selvedge side. A nice hot wash will help,and they should not stretch out as much as they had previously,as you are not putting as much pressure on the denim,because you've lost weight.
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Jett129 - That’s great news, I don’t mind paying if it means I will wear them again. Just to confirm, is the seam on the inside or the outside of the leg unpicked? Also, could any tailor do the work or does it need to go to a heavy denim specialist?
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Jett129 - That’s great news, I don’t mind paying if it means I will wear them again. Just to confirm, is the seam on the inside or the outside of the leg unpicked? Also, could any tailor do the work or does it need to go to a heavy denim specialist?
The answer to question one depends on how you want the jeans fixed. If the area to be taken out is above the crotch then avoiding losing the selvedge detail may be hard (and by hard I mean somewhere between impossible and expensive). Have that conversation with your tailor. Personally, I think selvedge denim is still selvedge denim with or without the ID, so if it wasn’t a pair of jeans I cuffed it wouldn’t bother me if they worked on the outside and I lost the selvedge ID.
The answer to question two is it depends. My local seamstress happily works on IH 21oz despite working mostly on dresses and suits. Again, if you aren’t in the area of a denim specialist, then ask.
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Just trying to understand this alteration. The excess material, that needs reducing, seems to run from the waistband down the thigh. Looking at the inside, I can’t see how the seam could be unpicked and excess removed without reducing the width of the pocket and also running into problems with the copper rivet.
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I can’t see how the seam could be unpicked and excess removed without reducing the width of the pocket and also running into problems with the copper rivet.
You’d have to start below that, from the bottom of the twisted section of the seam, about six inces below the waistband. Unpicking isn’t a problem. This is why you need to talk to a tailor though. It is quite a big job and there will inevitably be some necessary compromises to be made, but a proffesional will know the best way to go about it.
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neph93 - Thanks for the help, I’ll give them a wash first and see if they tighten up before I do anything drastic.
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Got these off @Sirihc in January. Had them tapered and put them to work. Gave them a soak last weekend.
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Looking fantastic @spitfiredealer !
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All this 634 tapering is kind of a waste IMO. I would rather buy the cut that works best and start from there.
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634 has the best top block IMO, leg opening is just too wide for me. £30 for a taper and I got a great fitting jean. No brainer
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This is a tricky discussion. I agree with @spitfiredealer that the 634 top block is brilliant. The one time I had a pair tapered I was far from satisfied with the result. It wasn’t a bad job per se, it just wasn’t a pair of IH anymore and they fell strangely too. It also cost a lot more than £30. So for my part I’m inclined to agree with @Anesthetist
I’ll add that a lot of jeans I’ve seen around the interwebz with aftermarket tapering end up looking weird in terms of silhouette and the way they drape.
️ Give it a hot wash… if that’s not satisfying buy a new one in the size you require. That’s it!
