IH-888-UHR - Indigo UHR 21/23oz Selvedge Denim Medium/High Rise Tapered Cut
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I am strongly considering picking up one of the remaining pairs of 888 UHR with yellow arcuates (I'd prefer indigo, but my size is sold out), but I am curious, has anyone eventually machine washed these on HOT, no spin? I have seen the directions give for the initial wash (cold soak several hours, wash on warm), but I am a stickler for getting all the shrinkage out that I can, though I do not want to wash on hot if it will cause issues with denim of this weight.
Also, after several washes, what total shrinkage in the inseam can be expected? 2"? 3"?? Trying to decide what hem length to specify upon purchase.
Thanks in advance for your wisdom of experience!
Every pair will behave differently, but regardless of what you do, you'd be better off getting them in and soaking/washing them to get the all the shrinkage out then send them back for hemming. If you hem before shrinking your pair, you're taking a gamble. Just my opinion!
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@dreigh I have the 888-NT's made out of the same UHR denim that I'm wearing for the DWC2. I've washed mine in hot water + a hot dryer many times. I think I gave them 5 washes in the first 6 weeks or so to get as much shrink out as possible. This raw denim doesn't shrink as much as other raw denims I have experience with. Less than 2" in inseam, about 1.5" - 1.75". About 1" in the waist, total. As instructed, you should give them a cold soak for an hour before washing in warm/hot water.
This denim is also one of the fastest fading that I've had. It looses dye very quickly. These HAVE to be soaked/washed inside out or else you'll get terrible marbling and fading along the inevitable creases that occur during washing in any manner.
I recall Giles saying at some point that this is an enthusiasts denim. My interpretation of that statement is that these don't do well with frequent washing, as they loose dye so easily. If you want high-contrast fades, then wash these as little as possible. Mine have some high contrast in the lap, but overall they kind of have a washed-out 90's acid wash vide.
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@mpukas experience matches mine, 1.5” in the inseam and 1” in the waist is about right. The 888 is quite a forgiving cut so you can afford to go TTS from raw as a rule. I size down in sanforised iterations.
You can hot wash for sure (I’ve done 60C) but please do the soak first then wash them straight afterwards. No spin the first few times.
@brobles suggestion of shrinking then hemming is the only way to get the hem exactly as you want it.
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dreigh, I've washed mine at 60° C and here are the measurements. It didn't harm the denim at all but got all the shrinkage out of them. I would strongly recommend to soak your pair in hot water for a few hours prior to washing them inside out to avoid any unpleasant surprises as stated before.
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I recall Giles saying at some point that this is an enthusiasts denim. My interpretation of that statement is that these don't do well with frequent washing, as they loose dye so easily.
I really meant, they are unpredictable and require some love and care to get the best out of them. You need to understand that and be prepared for disappointment if you don't do the right things.
Buy them, chuck them in a hot wash and tumble dry, you've just wasted a shit load of dollars….
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I picked up a pair of these. My first UHR and my first 888. I sized down to a 30 based on the roominess of the cut and I can do a 30 waist in the 55's and 634. I will have to stretch the waist, probably could've buttoned them up out of the bag…..didn't feel like working the hard. I'll post after the soak & wash
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Hey guys, I just got a pair of 888-UHR-YA and, this being my first raw pair, I'm trying to figure out how this fabric will settle.
I hem my 888s and 888s-SB to 30.5" because I don't like the way that the fabric pools at my feet if it's hemmed too much longer, especially considering how the 888 cut is supposed to look tapered. On the other hand, I hemmed the 634XHS and 888XHS-ib to 32.0" because the fabric stacks real well.
For those of you who own the 888-UHR and 888XHS-ib and 888s, how would you say they compare when it comes to the stiffness in the fabric? Based on how they feel after a soak/wash/dry, they seem more like the XHS. I'm just trying to figure out if I should hem these to my standard 888s length of 30.5" or XHS length of 32.0".
Thanks!
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The UHR breaks in differently to XHS despite the similarities in weight. You get thick rolls and creases but the aren’t as defined as on XHS .
Another thing is to check measurements. Often the UHR come up a little bigger in the dimensions than the comparitive sizes in the XHS, not least in the hem. That may affect your decision.
For my part, I know I was not happy with my IH-888-UHR until I’d had them hemmed pretty short, while my IH-888-XHSib can stand being a bit longer.
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The UHR breaks in differently to XHS despite the similarities in weight. You get thick rolls and creases but the aren’t as defined as on XHS .
Another thing is to check measurements. Often the UHR come up a little bigger in the dimensions than the comparitive sizes in the XHS, not least in the hem. That may affect your decision.
For my part, I know I was not happy with my IH-888-UHR until I’d had them hemmed pretty short, while my IH-888-XHSib can stand being a bit longer.
Thanks, Reuben, that helps.
I think I'll hem them somewhere in between my standard 21oz and 25oz hem lengths. I can always hem them shorter later if, like you, I don't like how it looks.
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Exactly 100 wear days for these as of today. They’ve gone from being a bit of an ugly duckling pair to swan-like. People talk about the softness of the XHS with wear, but the UHR gets there too. These will be my casual Friday/weekend jeans for the coming autumn and winter.
The tightness of the weave becomes clear when the fades come in. Really lets you appreciate the construction of the fabric.
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look good mate. They are at a lovely point of the fading process
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look good mate. They are at a lovely point of the fading process
Cheers… I’m really enjoying them. On the one hand I’ll miss the UHR, on the other I’m glad to have a pair that I’ll be enjoying for a long time to come. I won’t miss the break in either.
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These are brilliant!
It seems like everyone who wanted these has already gotten them but just in case it helps, here are my pre/post-soak/wash/dry measurements:
pre-soak
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waist: 32.0"
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thigh: 12.75"
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inseam: 36.75"
post-cold-soak/warm-wash/dry/warm-wash/dry
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waist: 31.2"
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thigh: 12.6"
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inseam: 35.8"
post-really-hot-soak/dry
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waist: 31.2"
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thigh: 12.4"
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inseam: 36.0"
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Ok, so I copped a pair of 888 UHRs in 31, but I've just started breaking in a pair of 21oz 888 in size 30 and I am starting to second-guess my decision to go one size up for the UHR. The waist on the UHRs is certainly snug, and I am under the impression that the UHRs don't give and stretch as much as the 21oz fabric.
UHRs are sold out, so it's not like I'm going to find a size 30 any time soon, just trying to decide if I should put these on the market before I put much wear on them.
What's the consensus out there, did you size one up or stay with your 888 21oz size?
I will say, after a wash the size 31 UHR waist seems just about as snug as the size 30 21oz waist…but the top block of the UHR still seems roomier. I do want to make them work.
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I'll buy em from ya
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I will say, after a wash the size 31 UHR waist seems just about as snug as the size 30 21oz waist…but the top block of the UHR still seems roomier. I do want to make them work.
There are variations between iterations caused by a number of things. The 888-UHR were the very first iteration of the 888 and arguably closer to the original fit concept. In addition, UHR iterations do tend to be looser in the top block and wider in the thigh than other iterations.
I got my pair early and they are as you describe. Tighter in the waist, roomier in the top block. My subsequent 888’s have been downsized.
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After ever so slowly wearing these, I'm finally at a point where they are well fitting again. Partially because I washed them too hot and also added weight…its on again....but wearing these reminds me if just how GOOD the UHR denim is. Is it completely dead, never ever able to come back?
