IH-634S-18 - 18oz Vintage Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans - Indigo

[Jordonf9]

Fit is spot on for me. I thought it would be a bit snug, but this denim stretches a lot and quickly. Love this denim!

[Jordonf9]

Flipping love this denim. Can't stop wearing these.

[Appfaff]

Awesome @Jordanf9 - I need to get mine hemmed badly.

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[steelworker]

@Appfaff:

Awesome @Jordanf9 - I need to get mine hemmed badly.

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I wouldn't do that when  You can have them well hemmed.
Although- if you insist on them being badly hemmed I'm sure Giles is your man.

[Giles]

[Appfaff]

Hahahaha best comment ever @Steelworker - and yeah, I have about 4 pairs I need to ship over the @Giles to have hemmed.

Waiting to decide on my lightweight option to get here (well to decide, order, etc) before I get rid of most of my jeans for a few weeks though.

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[djsazon]

@giles Any chance of these being re-stocked in a 36 in the forseeable future?

Thanks!

PS - Awesome podcast with Dean Delray

[Giles]

None in Japan, so it'l be a while I am afraid…

And thanks...

[cityofdelusion]

Hey @Giles,

I've looked around to find a perfect pair for myself that fits me in every area as I want and I've noticed that most of the times, whenever all the areas are perfect for me, the waist is always too small and when the waist is perfect to begin with, the other areas may be too baggy.

I've come across IH-634S-14 and IH-634S-18 and I've placed my order for both of them to try them out as I thought that there isn't any other pair that fits as I want:

The IH-634S-14 measures:

Waist - 71.12cm
Front rise - 24.8cm
Rear rise - 35.5cm
Thigh - 28.4cm
Knee - 20.5cm
Hem - 19.0cm

and the IH-634S-18 measures:

Waist - 72.6cm
Front rise - 25.5cm
Rear rise - 36.2cm
Thigh - 28.5cm
Knee - 20.9cm
Hem - 19.0cm

My ideal measurements are

Waist: 74-75cm
Front Rise: 24.5-25cm
Back Rise: 35-36.5cm
Thigh: 28-29cm
Knee: 19.5-20cm
Hem (I want this to be post-hemming service if possible): 16.5-17cm

As you can see, the waist is quite a bit small on both of these. According to the website, they should stretch up to an inch but my question is: How much will they really stretch according to your knowledge and experience? Because if the 634S-18 stretched an inch (not more, not less), it would end up being 72,6cm (maybe a little loose) and the 634S-14 would end up being 73,62cm (maybe a little tight).

Therefore, I thought about 'sizing down' and going with tag size 28, a smaller waist but having the other areas as I want them to be rather than going with tag size 29 which would have a waist of 74,9cm for the IH634S-18 and IH-634S-14 (which could be good on the waist to begin with but could get looser since it'll expand, right?)

PS: I've read the post about ''Soaking and stretching denim'' but I'm not sure if that applies to all of the denims like the 634S-18 or 634S-14 for example.

Also: What if I had went with a pair that measures 71,1cm in the waist but is perfect everywhere else? Would that end up stretching to my ideal waist measurement as well?

Thanks a lot!
Best Regards,
Doguhan

[neph93]

@doguhanca:

What if I had went with a pair that measures 71,1cm in the waist but is perfect everywhere else? Would that end up stretching to my ideal waist measurement?

Hei @doguhanca

I’ll allow myself to answer for Giles and he can chip in later if I miss anything.

Firstly you can count on that 2.5cm of stretch in the waist. It will happen with wear. In fact sometimes it’ll stretch more if needed. If you don’t mind some discomfort the first couple of weeks the 3-4cm of stretch may happen.

Secondly, both these denims are fully sanforised so you don’t need to worry about soaking or shrinkage.

Finally, if you order from IHUK then you can ask them to check a couple of pairs to find a pair with the best measurements. Individual pairs can vary slightly.

One more thing, I own the IH-634S-18 and it is really wonderful denim.

Hope this helps.

[cityofdelusion]

@neph93 Thanks a lot for your answer! So do I understand right that the waist will stretch as much as I need, not more and not less? It will conform around my waist and then stay like that? So if I order 71,1cm waist, it'll stretch to 74-75cm (my ideal waist measurement) and even if I order 72,6cm it'll still stretch to 74-75cm and stay there?

[neph93]

It isn’t that precise, and there is a maximum amount of stretch achievable. Also some denim is more liable to stretch than others.

It’s all about the pressure you put on the waistband. 2.5cm will normally happen regardless. But if your jeans are quite tight in the waist to start with then you will probably get more. Maybe as much as 4cm. But there is a limit and it’s not an exact science.

[cityofdelusion]

I see… If you had to recommend which waist width I should go with which would end up hopefully perfect for me (according to my ideal measurements I'd like to reach ca. 74cm) which one would you recommend? 71,12cm (IH-634S-14) or 72,6cm (IH-634S-18)? Sorry if I'm being annoying, just trying to get your opinion on this 

[Alex]

@doguhanca We of course welcome you asking other forum members for advice, that is, of course, what this place is for. That said, you will not get any different answers from any of us to those already sent via email over the last couple of weeks.
Hope you find the pair you are looking for.

[cityofdelusion]

@Alex I was just trying to learn more about the experiences people have made with the sizing down or stretching/ shrinking. I've received multiple answers from Adam before about this but I find it interesting to ask around in order to learn more It's also a good way to not annoy Adam or you all the time I guess 

[Alex]

Of course, I understand that, but you addressed your question to Giles, and I am answering that.

[cityofdelusion]

Giles, I feel like, is the guru of Iron Heart which is why his answer would be the most interesting

[Giles]

My answer will be the same answer as any of the IH staff or experienced customers will give you.  But I will repeat what you have been told a number of times, this is not an exact science and if you are looking for exact answers or expect denim to behave in a precise way, you will be disappointed.  Learn to embrace these idiosyncrasies, these imperfections, these less than precise results and things will get a whole lot easier and less stressful.

[cityofdelusion]

@Giles You're right. I'm way too detailed about things and I keep asking about the unknown factors multiple times because the unknown makes me uncomfortable. Mainly because I love doing my research as much as I can and then spending a lot of money on something that I know will turn out to be exactly how I want it to.

Thanks for your reply, happy holidays by the way

[Giles]

If you are looking to buy into this aesthetic you need to embrace the wabi sabi.  That is not meant to be pretentious just a statement of fact, if you can't, you are trying to put a square peg in a round hole.